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mikey
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#16 PostAuthor: mikey » Thu Sep 15, 2011 8:50 pm

Z1parr wrote:Mikey don't be fooled by some of these foolish suggestions of how to go faster , some people will tell you owt :wink:

This is what you need for a no nonesense proven horsepower increase :lol:

I don't know if you knew this but - running an engine with a standard air intake is like going through life with a head cold :roll:


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ELECTRIC-SUPE ... 336wt_1037


Thanks for the heads up just what i was looking for :rir :rir
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brian 1100
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#17 PostAuthor: brian 1100 » Thu Sep 15, 2011 9:30 pm

And don't forget those magnets you put around the fuel lines to "increase power, reduce fuel consumption and emissions" :lol:

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mikey
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#18 PostAuthor: mikey » Fri Sep 16, 2011 7:34 am

When i fit the GPZ cams is the valve timing set up carried out in the
same way as if i was fitting the standard cams back in the ltd motor?
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#19 PostAuthor: Crofty » Fri Sep 16, 2011 9:25 am

Mikey, Get the cams fitted with slotted cam wheels and dialled in properly for maximum benefit, good way to find lost horsepower, must be someone in Bristol can help you. Jim

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#20 PostAuthor: mikey » Fri Sep 16, 2011 1:17 pm

Cheers jim dont know what you mean by that but im sure someone down these parts will explain.
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#21 PostAuthor: Crofty » Fri Sep 16, 2011 1:46 pm

Hi Mikey, basically with a mass produced bike there are tolerances. You get one cam, cam wheel, piston whatever and they all vary slightly. They all will work OK, but to maximise power, fuel economy etc they have to be set up perfectly.
Now take your cams and the two wheels with teeth that bolt onto them, i can guarantee that if you had say half a dozen wheels and you laid them on top of each other and lined the mounting holes up exactly, then not all the teeth would be in the same position. However they are made within a spec that says when you time in the cams using the workshop manual the bike will run OK.
If you look at the engine specs then there will be a bit refering to valve timing, on a Z900 the inlet valve will open 30 degrees before top dead centre and close 70 degrees after tdc. Thats on paper of course, in reality with said mass produced cogs you might find valves opening and closing either side of those settings. By having cam wheels that allow the cam to rotate within and then the bolts tightened it is possible to have the valves open and close exactly hwere they should.

cam chain wear, tensioner wear also allow these settings to slide, that is why some bikes are quick out of the crate, some get worse as you ride them (the wear takes settings further out) and others get better (as the settings begin to improve).

To set them up, you would need to either buy ready modified or aftermarket cam wheels or have yours modified, debbens could do this, when setting up you have to accurately find top dead centre and use a degree disc and dial guage to measure crankshaft rotation and amount of valve lift.

I am in the process of doing this to my Z650 (810 conversion) and have yet to set mine up, but have been reading up on it.

Sorry for the long winded reply, but I think it is something that is often left out and engines that get a different set of cams and they are off the mark and never give the full benefit.

I have pm'd you some useful links about engine tuning, specially cam timing

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#22 PostAuthor: mikey » Fri Sep 16, 2011 1:53 pm

Thanks for taking the time to reply jim but did not recieve your pms with the links
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#23 PostAuthor: Crofty » Fri Sep 16, 2011 1:58 pm

No worrys mikey, thats coz your too quick for me already without the cams :shock: have pm'd now, took a while to find the pdf one

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#24 PostAuthor: mikey » Fri Sep 16, 2011 2:56 pm

Cheers jim got ot now make some good reading tonight
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#25 PostAuthor: Taffus » Fri Sep 16, 2011 3:56 pm

Crofty wrote:I have pm'd you some useful links about engine tuning, specially cam timing

Why not share with the rest of us??? :??
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mikey
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#26 PostAuthor: mikey » Sat Sep 17, 2011 8:50 pm

i would do taffus if i knew how to do the link thing maybe crofty will
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#27 PostAuthor: RALPHARAMA » Sun Sep 18, 2011 9:39 am

This has been of great interest to me also - I hope to start my Z1100A3 shaft this winter.

I'd be interested to see a full performance comparison between the Z1100A3 motor and the GPZ ie BHP; Torque and fuel consumption.

For my shafter I am looking to build and uber comfy touring Zed. The Old Gurl is way too un-comfortable to do serious mileage on, even if she is cute. I want lots of low down torque and ideally a good mileage range. Not looking to race - lazy minimal gear changes. Perhaps then I would have a Zed I would be willing to take to Germany etc :lol:
Ralph Ferrand
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http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk

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#28 PostAuthor: Crofty » Sun Sep 18, 2011 3:55 pm

I have posted a note entitled cam timing in Technical, Bike Help with links to various cam timing articles from the likes of Debbens and APE.


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