Questions, questions, and more questions.

[uk kev]

all this relates to my 78 Z1000.

I have ordered a new clutch cable, so I removed the old one today, but this raised a question, is this cover meant to come off.....



as I can't move the screws at all.

So I removed the whole sprocket cover, the inside of which was covered in some kind of baffle, so what is behind that small cover? while I had the sprocket cover off I thought I would strip and grease the actuator assembly, yeah right, I have really tried, and I can't shift those two mounting screws either, are they meant to be that tight, are they locktighted?

[uk kev]

I forgot to add the next question....

Throttle cables.
what is the difference in length between the high bar and low bar cables, as I think the ones fitted were for high bars, but I want to be sure what I order will fit.

[Surfdeneige]

It is only the clutch retaining/swivel mechanism. DON'T touch it as if you do you will be left with a handfull of parts if you can find them. Hook up the new cable and pop it back together. Jobs a good un.

[Davy Doherty]

The tear drop cover you arrowed is for housing the chain oil pump on the Z1 theres nothing behind yours

[uk kev]

Thanks Davy, so how do you adjust the clutch on these then, on my old Z650 it was through the cover, do you have to take the whole sprocket cover off to adjust the clutch?

[zed1015]

You need to get the tear drop cover off to adjust the worm mechanism (same as the Z650 ) for the correct end clearance on the pushrod AFTER fitting the new cable then take up the slack using the cable adjuster leaving the usual 3mm / 1/8 inch approx free play at the bars.

[uk kev]

Man that was a fight! every screw was glued in, but with a little force, a spare pair of hands, and a few thumps from my trusty hammer, they all came loose.

I have now stripped the whole cover, cleaned, inside, removed the noise baffle, chased out all the threads, stripped, cleaned, greased and rebuilt the actuator mech (those bearings are a bugger) rebuilt the whole unit with stainless screws and lock washers, and fitted the new Barnett clutch cable. I have a new return spring coming from Z-Power, with some other small items that are clutch related, so will do final adjustments when that all arrives.

If anyof you decide to rebuild your clutch actuators, do it over an old towel so that you don't lose the very small bearings, also when you rebuild the same grease the bearings as you fit them, it holds them in place while you rebuild the actuator.