Z650 into 810 project

[Crofty]

How do mean pigford? I can see timing the exhaust cam in no problem, but as the cam chain can stretch, tensioner wear, differences in height of cam cover, gasket thickness, and non adjustable cam wheels all stack up against getting the inlet cam dialled in spot on in relationship to the exhaust one.
I am thinking when the time comes and the head is on, I should fit this bit and then tension the chain with a manual tensioner, then set the cams up.
I have never dialled cams in before, but looking forward to trying it.
Anyone got a spare degree disc, a dial guage, magnet stand and tdc indicator, they want to sell.

[Al]

The effective pre-load of valve springs will rotate the exhaust cam inside the chain (hyvo) if not kept tight so it does two things and one of them is more to do with the inlet cam. I did measure it and from memory its worth about 5 degrees of cam rotation and therefore about 10 degrees of crank movement which is after all what is being discussed when youre dialling cams.

Bit in the middle;

And finally when you have finished do a reality check and test the piston to valve clearance on several cycles. With the head removed you can use blue tack on top of the pistons and if the head is on you can use soft solder wire bent into and 'L' shape and inserted through the plug hole.



More piccy's here; http://s254.photobucket.com/albums/hh86 ... 20dialler/

AL

[Pigford]

When I did it, I only saw a degree or so movement of the inlet cam

I still used it tho' Al, so didn't accurately check the difference

[Crofty]

I met up with a guy from York last night, who already has 1 tidy Kawasaki Z650C1 and has bought a barn find C3. We spent a couple of hours pulling the top end off, as number 2 piston had water sat on top of it and the rings had rusted themselves to the bores, luckily only the one on that cylinder , otherwise we would of really struggled.
Turns out he has a set of Joy cams for a Z650, which, he says he will give me for helping him out.
Just have to find out a bit more about them, they may be too radical for street use. They are engraved Joy2 and are brand new, anyone know about Phil Joy cams in Kawasakis. He is well known for H**** racing ones and big singles, from what I found on't net. Crofty.


edit, spoke to Phil Joy this am and he said they are stage 3 cams (4 stages), so quite potent. 0.375 lift and 257 degrees rotation at 40thou. He even reckons only to use APE buckets as the std ones will/could wear out and or break!! seems a bit excessive.
Fitted the APE clutch pusher and EBC heavy duty clutch springs today.

[Crofty]

I emailed a contact in the US who has drag raced a 650 for a few years and he thinks the std cam buckets should be OK with the Joy cams. maybe with close monitoring of them every now and again to see what the top surface of the cam looks like.
Looked into price of APE shim under buckets and

[big green bus]

One of my mates had a 810 motor with gpz cams and GSXR 750 29 mm flatslides and it was a missle, as quick as an 1100. the big bore seemed to have much more of an effect that the 1170 on my 1100. A guy tried to run a 810 in the earlystocks, but it was so much faster than the other bike they new there was a rabbit off and banned the chap.
Good luck with the project I think you will be pleased with the outcome.

[Crofty]

Started on the outer cases cleaning up. I have decided on the later F2 type of finish, black crankcases, outer ones bright, with the exception of the clutch which has only the round centre polished. The alternator is polished with the bit between the ribs blacked out, the points cover I have was damaged, so I am having it welded and have filed the ribs of and just left the Kawasaki logo.

[moto]

Another fine job there Jim . Whens the completion date ?

Moto

[Crofty]

Ages off yet Bryan, xmas should see engine work doe, then spend next year building a rolling chassis capable of handling it all.

I will try to give you a call this week Bryan, been on hols.

[sanderz]

Ages off yet Bryan, xmas should see engine work doe, then spend next year building a rolling chassis capable of handling it all.

Stick at it Crofty, this is gonna be a crackin' bike

[KWACKERZ1]

I seem to remember something about big cams an standard buckets and it may be that the hard coating on the buckets is not compatible with the coating on the cams. I would go with what Phil joy says.

Stage 3 may be ok for drag racing but I think you will find them unsuitable for daily use anyway.

[Crofty]

Been busy in the shed making this manual cam chain tensioner.

Cut down a spare automatic one, tapped to accept 80mm long M12 bolt, couple of nuts and Roberts your mother's brother. Cheaper than APE.

[Crofty]

Sprayed the clutch cover and cam cover after polishing the unpainted sections. I have picked up the Phil Joy cams from my friend Gary, I have settled on using these ones and if its too much, revert to GPZ cams, but worth seeing how it goes.
Head is all cleaned up, exhaust stud mount on number 2 repaired and 1 helicoil to a cam cap bolt hole. It will be off to Debbens soon for a going over. Cometic head gasket on the way.
Been sorting various stainless bolts on covers and toying with the idea of making an alloy starter motor cover, anyone ever done that?

Barrels and head I am going to do in the black same as rest of engine.

[Rich]

toying with the idea of making an alloy starter motor cover, anyone ever done that?

Not yet, but it's on my list of bits to play on this winter - apart from fitting wardrobes etc

Z1000 - I expect a wooden dolly made to act as a pattern, nylon tools to beat with (work well and a lot less damaging to the alloy than steel) 16g 1050 allu, probably tig the outer lip corners for the bend, but if annealed properly should be able to shrink for the corners.

[Crofty]

Was thinking more basic, flat sheet of ally, cut to top shape and have lip welded on and then file and polish welds out