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Drill Length To repair Exhaust Stud GPZ 1100 A3

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firyembers
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Drill Length To repair Exhaust Stud GPZ 1100 A3

#1 PostAuthor: firyembers » Thu Aug 04, 2011 4:01 pm

I have a stud broken on my GPZ head and as i am away,would anybody be so good as to measure the length from the head to outside the down tubes to help determine the length of drill i need.
Thanks for your help. :D

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#2 PostAuthor: z1bman » Thu Aug 04, 2011 4:53 pm

most long series drills are about 150mm long so i would think one of these would be plenty long enough
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#3 PostAuthor: Ginger Bear » Thu Aug 04, 2011 5:03 pm

The Dimension you want is 90mm. :D
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#4 PostAuthor: KeithZ1R » Thu Aug 04, 2011 5:26 pm

Just get a long series drill it will be plenty long enough :)
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#5 PostAuthor: firyembers » Thu Aug 04, 2011 6:29 pm

Thanks GB Just what i needed and thanks to KeithZ1R and Z1bman.

It was helicoiled on inspection but as you see the casting has broken and thus need to go at least 12-15mm deeper into the head and fit a longer stud.
Threads need to be fastened to a depth 1.5x diameter minimum.
With a right angled drill adapter should get it done next visit will add pictures to the project when i get to put it back up again. :D

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#6 PostAuthor: Big Fluff » Fri Aug 05, 2011 11:51 am

Steady as she goes captain.
Only once do I know of someone who went too far... :roll:
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#7 PostAuthor: firyembers » Fri Aug 05, 2011 12:48 pm

Nice one Ha Ha.Well its gotta go further regardless,would that be DEEP SPACE :lol: if i am to continue riding this,without taking the head off.And not ready to do that yet.
The other thing does anyone know of tap extension's available,looks like the drilling of the hole is sorted,just getting to drive the tap without interferance
Thanks..
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#8 PostAuthor: KeithZ1R » Fri Aug 05, 2011 1:35 pm

Depending on the quality of your tap I have used a small 1/4 drive socket with some minor modification in the past with a long extention bar :idea:
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#9 PostAuthor: firyembers » Fri Aug 05, 2011 3:13 pm

Nice idea,forgotten about using those,will have source a 1/4 bit socket set with small range of sockets.
Thanks. :D
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#10 PostAuthor: sanderz » Fri Aug 05, 2011 3:36 pm

Only an idea but -
If you have some needle files, file the threaded part of a small nut so that you can gently tap it onto the tap, then use the 1/4 drive socket extension / T bar.
Wots up DOHC
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#11 PostAuthor: firyembers » Fri Aug 05, 2011 3:48 pm

Great idea's coming in thanks it's appreciated, :D :D
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#12 PostAuthor: KeithZ1R » Fri Aug 05, 2011 4:15 pm

KeithZ1R wrote:Depending on the quality of your tap I have used a small 1/4 drive socket with some minor modification in the past with a long extention bar :idea:


Meant to say star sockets :oops:
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#13 PostAuthor: jimmock » Wed Aug 10, 2011 6:42 am

Big Fluff wrote:Steady as she goes captain.
Only once do I know of someone who went too far... :roll:


Fluff,

I had a burd many years ago who went too far!!

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#14 PostAuthor: jimmock » Wed Aug 10, 2011 6:44 am

Here is my mechanically minded soloution....

If you REALLY need to do it in situ, why dont you...
Hacksaw out the frame tube above and below the access area.
Then you could use a "normal" length drill more accurately.

Makes sense to me.

Jimmock.
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#15 PostAuthor: kev edwards » Wed Aug 10, 2011 7:33 am

jimmock wrote:Here is my mechanically minded soloution....

If you REALLY need to do it in situ, why dont you...
Hacksaw out the frame tube above and below the access area.
Then you could use a "normal" length drill more accurately.

Makes sense to me.

Jimmock.


Only you could come up with that one Jim. :hys
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