I bumped into a guy at the Bulldog bash a good 10 years ago who had modded a zx10 (i think) cylinder etc to fit a Z900. Anyone got any info on such a mod?
A recent accident causing permanant nerve damage means i'm gonna struggle with a cable, lost around 60% of strength in my hand you see.
Hello Guest User,
Please feel free to have a look around the forum but be aware that as an unregistered guest you can't see all of it and you can't post.
To access these 'Registered Users Only' areas simply register and login.
Please feel free to have a look around the forum but be aware that as an unregistered guest you can't see all of it and you can't post.
To access these 'Registered Users Only' areas simply register and login.
Hydraulic Clutch
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
I fitted a hydrualic clutch as per the attached link to the post on the site. Much easier to use, should do the job and keep the bike looking fairly standard.
http://www.z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/vie ... ght=clutch
http://www.z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/vie ... ght=clutch
How the hell do you bleed these buggers !
I have a Z1B with Hydraulic clutch running Ducati controls , looks great with polished levers but does anybody know how the hell you bleed these.
Think the Hydraulic set up is easier if working properly but they are a bugger to bleed . I believe Deben did the conversion on mine originaly and the brakes running dual discs actually stop ,anybody any tips on Bleeding as mine in pieces !
Cheers
Vince
I have a Z1B with Hydraulic clutch running Ducati controls , looks great with polished levers but does anybody know how the hell you bleed these.
Think the Hydraulic set up is easier if working properly but they are a bugger to bleed . I believe Deben did the conversion on mine originaly and the brakes running dual discs actually stop ,anybody any tips on Bleeding as mine in pieces !
Cheers
Vince
HD/GS/Z1
thx guys,
after reading your inspiring words i headed off to the garage feeling confident.
had to finish a job on the wife's windstar first but that went well and in no time it was all fixed and i was able to tackle the clutch.
i unattached the clutch line from the frame to remove any chance of a pinched hose,
unbolted the slave from its mounting and flipped it so the bleed nipple was pointing it up,
with a clam and a bushing i clamped the slave's piston all the way in.
then commenced with the bleeding i was surprised with how much air was still in the line but it all came out in no time and pressure from the piston was noticeable by watching the clamp.
bolted it back in place and pumped the clutch with my finger tucked in on the clutch push rod and we have movement.
i had already checked the clutch actuator to see just how much travel it had and I'd say between 8 - 10mm.
i have probably 4mm of travel so i possibly need to get a standard length push rod as mine was cut down for the pmfr bracket to be installed a couple of years ago.
first tip if you have a friend get him or her to help you as there is a lot going on.
my clutch resivour was small tiny in fact, so i forgot to check it a couple of times and i had to start again lol.
my clutch line is 48 inches long so it can take a while to bleed it all the way.
wasn't sure what i was supposed to feel on the pull but i can report that its about in between the brake and a cable actuated clutch in feel, and you really can feel the rod push in..
so if this helps anyone cool, on a side note with the ape clutch springs i fitted a couple of weeks ago the pull may still be to much for my old arthritic hands only time will tell.
after reading your inspiring words i headed off to the garage feeling confident.
had to finish a job on the wife's windstar first but that went well and in no time it was all fixed and i was able to tackle the clutch.
i unattached the clutch line from the frame to remove any chance of a pinched hose,
unbolted the slave from its mounting and flipped it so the bleed nipple was pointing it up,
with a clam and a bushing i clamped the slave's piston all the way in.
then commenced with the bleeding i was surprised with how much air was still in the line but it all came out in no time and pressure from the piston was noticeable by watching the clamp.
bolted it back in place and pumped the clutch with my finger tucked in on the clutch push rod and we have movement.
i had already checked the clutch actuator to see just how much travel it had and I'd say between 8 - 10mm.
i have probably 4mm of travel so i possibly need to get a standard length push rod as mine was cut down for the pmfr bracket to be installed a couple of years ago.
first tip if you have a friend get him or her to help you as there is a lot going on.

my clutch resivour was small tiny in fact, so i forgot to check it a couple of times and i had to start again lol.
my clutch line is 48 inches long so it can take a while to bleed it all the way.
wasn't sure what i was supposed to feel on the pull but i can report that its about in between the brake and a cable actuated clutch in feel, and you really can feel the rod push in..
so if this helps anyone cool, on a side note with the ape clutch springs i fitted a couple of weeks ago the pull may still be to much for my old arthritic hands only time will tell.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 21 guests