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Help Cam Chain Timing

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bigmac103
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Help Cam Chain Timing

#1 PostAuthor: bigmac103 » Sun Dec 14, 2008 3:06 pm

Thought I was doing some routine maintenance until I adjusted the cam chain! I turned over the engine and it went tight. After a while it turned over but wouldn't start. I realize now the chain has jumped. I have removed the cam cover, loosened the tensioner and removed cam chain guide. Are there any ways to put it back to the original timing without breaking the chain?

Any help would be appreciated.
Bill
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#2 PostAuthor: hillbilly » Sun Dec 14, 2008 3:12 pm

i think you are going to have to redo the timeing ,with the cams.points cover off,line up timeing marks,and see how far out the cams are,adjust to suit,about an hour of a job .and dont do it again. :wink:
push me shuv you.sez who sez me.
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#3 PostAuthor: Pigford » Sun Dec 14, 2008 3:14 pm

:shock: :??

You need to slacken the adjuster & remove the top idler sprocket first :!:

(Assuming its an older Zed - chain not hy-vo)

Take your time & don't rush it......

I hate to say this..... But there's a good chance you've bent some valves :cry:

Check all cylinders compression of it won't start..... just remove spark plugs & turn engine over with thumb over plug holes.... :wink:

GOOD LUCK.....
Been there, done it, got the Tee Shirt... & new valves :evil:
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!

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#4 PostAuthor: Steve Cooke » Sun Dec 14, 2008 4:06 pm

That doesn't sound too good, 'tight then turns' I hope it's ok. Search through the forum as there are some good clear pictures of the cam timing marks and where they should be, I think they are in this bike help section, good luck.

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#5 PostAuthor: Steve Cooke » Sun Dec 14, 2008 5:44 pm

Bill have a look at the wingman post (cam timing help please) above this one.

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bigmac103
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#6 PostAuthor: bigmac103 » Sun Dec 14, 2008 5:58 pm

Thanks Steven, looked at Wingmans question, is it possible that the cam chain jump off one of the guides when I slackened off the tensioner?
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#7 PostAuthor: chrisu » Sun Dec 14, 2008 6:35 pm

shouldn't have done IF you didn't rotate the engine with it off.

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#8 PostAuthor: bigmac103 » Sun Dec 14, 2008 11:06 pm

The book said turn the engine over a couple of times to even out the slack! So i guess its head off replace bent valves.
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#9 PostAuthor: Rich » Mon Dec 15, 2008 4:34 pm

take the plugs out and look for impact signs on the top of the pistons. One tooth out will probably not cause them to hit but more will.
Rich
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#10 PostAuthor: bigmac103 » Mon Dec 15, 2008 5:19 pm

If you can't put it back together, don't take it to bits!

Excellent advice, just wish I had the luxury of a choice.
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#11 PostAuthor: RALPHARAMA » Mon Dec 15, 2008 11:11 pm

if you haven't got a workshop manual let us know and we'll scan a page and post it on here. What model is it? Set the timing as it should be then borrow a compression tester and confirm that all is well. Prolly will be.

It is however worrying that the cam chain would jump if you set the cam chain tension in the prescribed manner. You couldn't have turned the engine in the wrong direction could you? If not I would be inclined to remove the tensioner, photograph it and post it on here. I have seen more than one that has been badly butchered.

You'll get all the help you need on here
Ralph Ferrand
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#12 PostAuthor: bigmac103 » Mon Dec 15, 2008 11:18 pm

Thanks VDUK,

I think this thread now has moved to the other cam chain help by Wingman. I do have a manual thanks but the info I have received on that thread has really helped. For instance the cam chain timing diagram and explanation by Chrisu is superb and much better than the workshop manual.
Bill
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#13 PostAuthor: bigmac103 » Tue Dec 16, 2008 1:59 pm

The motorcycle engineer has bottled out, so I am commited ro do this job on my own! I am going to start removing the head tommorow and post pictures as I go so I´ll start a new thread.

Apart from a 4lb hammer, chisle and a reel of sticky back plastic what specialised tools if any might I need?
Bill
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#14 PostAuthor: tlc » Tue Dec 16, 2008 2:22 pm

A few plasters :lol: :lol: :lol:

Bigmac, PM sent.
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#15 PostAuthor: DogsbolloxofZ1B » Tue Dec 16, 2008 4:05 pm

As welll as removing the cylinder head nuts make sure you remove the M6 bolts adjacent to plugs 1 & 4 before you attempt to remove the head. To free off a head I use a large plastic mallet and a length of brass (covered with a rag) and tap the fat section of casting by these two M6 bolts above.
Never had any problems.

Mike


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