Stud Removal

[fredswat]

I am having serious difficulty getting the studs out of the upper engine case on my Z1B. Have tried WD40 and heat - 5 removed the rest remain. Does anyone know what is the best releasing agent to soak them with? Also anyone have a view on the strongest stud remover? Bought one at Donnington that turned out to be cheap rubbish.

[Rich]

Diesel for penetrating.

[fredswat]

Do you mean normal Diesel oil ?

[Rich]

Yes

[Pigford]

Plus Gas - penetrating oil.... or standard car/heating diesel/gas oil

[PAULJAC47]

Hi Try This use Plus Gas or Lever from Aztec Chemicals 01270-655500 www.aztecchemicals.com.If u are trying to get studs out lock two nut together on threaded portion use ring spanner and keep heating stud as hot as you dare and keep squirting one of the above release agents in.try half dozen times then give ring spanner a sharp blow with hide mallet.The combination of expansion and contraction usually works.The Lever works well as it will even climb uphill into threads.Hope this helps PAULJAC47..

[tlc]

PATIENCE

[fredswat]

Thanks for the advice. I am trying not to shear the studs off. I tried the locking two nuts together and just ended up winding them off the stud and wrecking the threads in the process . I haven't heard of Lever so will probably try that next . Is there some sort of stud extractor that will grip the stud at the base near the crankcase it feels like the stud is twisting while I try to turn it at the top

[tlc]

It will twist.

Most important thing is to get it to move in the first place and then rock it back and forth.

Lots of heat and then let it cool. Then heat and cool. And again heat and cool and in between lots of WD40.

PATIENCE, PATIENCE, PATIENCE.

Can take like a few days sometimes

[PAULJAC47]

If you can get to base of stud get a pair of Stillsons on shaft or if studs are scrap weld a nut a couple a inches from base this is a last resort though but gave found the extra heat if u arc weld sometimes helps but it may make stud brittle Cheers Pauljac47

[Steve Cooke]

Halfords do a freezing spray in a can, so you could heat the surrounding alloy and then superfreeze the stud, i've no idea how good it is or isn't as i've not used it but it may be another option.

[Pasc]

We use that freezing spray at work to test boards and cpu's that are suspected to be going faulty when warm.
DO NOT SPRAY IT ON YOUR FINGERS. It's fekkin cold.

[fredswat]

ONLY 3 LEFT TO GET OUT NOW - BUT THEY ARE NOT PLAYING BALL

[big green bus]

if all else fails take it to an engineering workshop and ask them to spark erode it out. i had this done a few years ago on a stud snapped flush. when they had finished it did not even need tapping or any kind of thread repair. the process just eats the stud and nothing else, it was amazing

[Jumbo]

I would say if you can give the end of the stud that is in the crankcase a good soaking in penetrating fluid overnight and then with a pair of stillsons get a good grip and try and undo. Also try hitting the end of the stud with a hammer quite hard as that also loosens the threads. If you get them moving try moving them backwards and forwards to clean up the tread if there is rust stuck in the threads.