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Cam timeing
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
Cam timeing
Been building up my engine this weekend (Z1B) and have got as far as fitting the cams, my problem (query) is that having installed the cams the marks on the exhaust cam don't quite line up parallel to the head but from the look of it if you were to move the chain one tooth in either direction it would be worse.
Could it be the newness of the camchain (DiD) or is it something more sinister?
Any comments appreciated
Could it be the newness of the camchain (DiD) or is it something more sinister?
Any comments appreciated
Re: Cam timeing
relisysxx wrote:Been building up my engine this weekend (Z1B) and have got as far as fitting the cams, my problem (query) is that having installed the cams the marks on the exhaust cam don't quite line up parallel to the head but from the look of it if you were to move the chain one tooth in either direction it would be worse.
Could it be the newness of the camchain (DiD) or is it something more sinister?
Any comments appreciated
Pin 1 is usually just below the gasket surface, providing you count the right number of pins to the inlet sprocket mark it should be right,
As Chrisu says post some pics you we will soon tell you if it looks wrong




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Proper confused now, have a look at these and see what you think

Groove in the end of the inlet cam should be horizontal and facing straight forward (in line with the top of the head). Groove to the exhaust cam horizontal and straight back (in line with he top of the head).
Have you got a Kawasaki Service manual.
PDF download -Original service manual on this link - See page 30 / 31
http://classickawasaki.se/downloads.asp
Have you got a Kawasaki Service manual.
PDF download -Original service manual on this link - See page 30 / 31
http://classickawasaki.se/downloads.asp
👀 👀 👀
email - adrianhorsfield@live.co.uk
email - adrianhorsfield@live.co.uk
Your exhaust cam looks to be roughly 90 degrees too far advanced (7 teeth-ish out) and you are risking damage to the exhaust valves if you rotate the crank.
There is a good chance that at least number 4 exhaust valve is already in contact with the piston crown if not perilously close.
The lines on the cam sprocket rubber are not timing marks.
There is a small arrow/mark stamped on the actual metal near one of the sprocket teeth that needs to line up close to the top of the head.
The arrow/mark is currently near the lone exhaust sprocket bolt that is currently facing downwards.
This pic should make it all clear.

There is a good chance that at least number 4 exhaust valve is already in contact with the piston crown if not perilously close.
The lines on the cam sprocket rubber are not timing marks.
There is a small arrow/mark stamped on the actual metal near one of the sprocket teeth that needs to line up close to the top of the head.
The arrow/mark is currently near the lone exhaust sprocket bolt that is currently facing downwards.
This pic should make it all clear.

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You need to fit the thinnest shim which is a .200mm (although 190's can be found) .
Measure the clearance (say its .045mm ) and deduct the clearance you want (say .015mm ) = 0.30mm.
Add that remaining figure (0.30mm) to the .200mm shim fitted and that should give you the size of shim (0.230mm) needed for that valve.
Hopefully doing the seats hasn't sunk the valves so far that the stem height is too high and the thinnest shim is still too thick.
If that's the case you will need to pull the head and tip the valve stems at the very least to regain clearance.
Measure the clearance (say its .045mm ) and deduct the clearance you want (say .015mm ) = 0.30mm.
Add that remaining figure (0.30mm) to the .200mm shim fitted and that should give you the size of shim (0.230mm) needed for that valve.
Hopefully doing the seats hasn't sunk the valves so far that the stem height is too high and the thinnest shim is still too thick.
If that's the case you will need to pull the head and tip the valve stems at the very least to regain clearance.
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