J Wiring question

[Al]

I have had to do a major make over on the J loom.
Many spare wires removed and the rats nest of wires for the ignition relay mod now bound into the loom. New plugs, contacts, heat proof binding on alternator wires, new alternator wires etc etc etc.

Question i have is; does anyone know where would be the best place to insert an on/off switch for the dash lights so they are not draining the battery during daytime riding.

I cant see from the wiring diagram where would be the best place to interrupt the supply to dash lights without affecting essential supplies to necessary components.
I bet its not that simple!!!!

Any help appreciated.


AL

[Pigford]

You gonna be running a total loss system then Al

If you're stuffed, I can scan my Clymer manual on Monday

[Big Fluff]

Al, if a paltry 13.6 watts (4 x 3.4w) is draining your battery then there's something seriously wrong somewhere

[Al]

You gonna be running a total loss system then Al

If you're stuffed, I can scan my Clymer manual on Monday

Cheers Piggy got two diagrams both double Dutch.

Al, if a paltry 13.6 watts (4 x 3.4w) is draining your battery then there's something seriously wrong somewhere

Thanks Will a good point well made but;

On daytime riding there is
Speedo illum 1.7w
Speedo illum 1.7w
Odometer light 2w
Fuel gauge light 2w
Tach illum 1.7w
Tach illum 1.7w
Pilot headlight 4w
Tail light 5w
Tail light 5w
Headlight filament 55w

Total = 80w


with high beam there is also;
High filament +5w (60W as opposed to 55w)
High beam warning 3.4w

Total 88 w

This is without indicators and their warning lights and making no allowance for running the ignition system and all this in a perfect world with no resistances in wiring or losses across connectors and a perfect alternator and R/R unit.

Really i wanted to put a higher value dip and main beam in, in which case something has to give and as you can see from the photo, just to turn on the headlight it's like Blackpool illuminations.

Guess its not that simple after all.


AL

[Ginger Bear]

Al, This may be another route. I believe these HID systems use a lot less power than standard & look pretty trick too!
https://www.harris-performance.com/webs ... llast.html

[Al]

I know this topic has been done to death previously but i have had issues with charging etc. and am fired up on this little diversion.

Many thanks GB i have just read this and am wondering if it does what it says and means it!!

Xenon Plus H4 premium
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... /XENON.jpg

From;
Scroll down a bit
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... /bulbs.php

It seems to suggest that you dont need the expensive ballast kit and or any alterations to the wiring to get just a little more up front.
People i ride with have mentioned a dim yellow glow in their mirrors and if that what they see then the car drivers cant see much more than that!!

Will give them a call early week to see what they say.


AL

[Ginger Bear]

Sounds like a cheap fix if your problem is being a little dim (no offence), but won't reduce the load on your electrics.

[Mick Hayward]

Hi

With everything switched on the alternator should give enough power to break even and still put something into the battery to replace what is lost through startring.

Cheers

Mick

[Ginger Bear]

Al, another option for your instrument bulbs.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/8-PCS-BA9s-Hi-Pow ... 414b653912

[tlc]

Al. 88watts = 7 amps.

That`s nothing and has been said your alternator ought to cover that with ease !

[Ginger Bear]

Option 3 (in my book anyway)
http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/g03-gene ... 890-0.html
If you aint producing enough power in the first place, this should sort you out. Quite good value as well!

[Rich]

Turn the lights off at the right hand handlebar switch. If you don't have a european model I would put a switch in the earths after they join in the main loom.

[Big Fluff]

Just an additional note here guys...........
If anyone has ever replaced the wires from their alternator with 'conventional' copper multi-strand wiring, that will give the symptoms Al describes. It is imperative that steel multi-strand wires are soldered in, though even the soldered joints can also add to resistance.
Will.

[kev edwards]

You Could source silver wires,more conductive than copper or steel,tad more exspensive though.

[Taffus]

I am using HID's on my car. There is an initial current spike but normal running 6k will run at 32W =2.6A where as a normal 55W is about 4.5A.

I have a set of 2 HIds to in the GPz B1, when I get the time.....