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Stud Removal

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Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus

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Pigford
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#16 PostAuthor: Pigford » Sat Nov 29, 2008 9:59 pm

Stilsons are OK, but tend to put a very uneven (one sided) force on the thing being butchered... :??

A "T" handle or similar rig-up is better :wink:
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!

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paul doran
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#17 PostAuthor: paul doran » Sun Nov 30, 2008 1:47 am

leave it soaking for a week in Diesel
it is better than any of these spray's
Parafin is another good easing fluid
way too many Zeds

wilsonsjw11
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#18 PostAuthor: wilsonsjw11 » Sun Nov 30, 2008 6:17 am

fredswat
Pm your address to me and I will send you a BRITOOL stud extractor that WILL work.
Regards
Steve

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Garn 1
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#19 PostAuthor: Garn 1 » Sun Nov 30, 2008 12:10 pm

Fredswat, get a good quality stud remover (say Snap-on) use a 17" lever and out they come ..... Never had any trouble... It's just a matter of getting the torque on the stud. Spark erroder ....if things get real bad,
RegardZ.
Garn (Sydney) Z1, Z1A, Z1B and Z900-A4

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Al
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#20 PostAuthor: Al » Sun Nov 30, 2008 1:05 pm

Snapped one of mine off flush and spent six hours with a Dremmell and burrs.

All of a Saturday but got it out without damaging anything. Not recommended by the way.



AL

fredswat

Stud Removal

#21 PostAuthor: fredswat » Sun Nov 30, 2008 2:02 pm

Only 2 left now - the ones at the front - I have smoothed off the threads with the stud extractor I was using so no grip now at the thread end of the stud - I must have spent hundreds of hours on this and extracting the swinging arm bushes last year

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Pigford
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#22 PostAuthor: Pigford » Sun Nov 30, 2008 3:32 pm

Fred......

Cocerntrate ALL effort as close to the casing (nearest the area it is stuck) to get best results...... :twisted:

If you are applying force at the top of the stud (furthest from bit in casing) some of the force is absorbed by the stud twisting... :wink:
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!

fredswat

Stud Removal

#23 PostAuthor: fredswat » Sun Nov 30, 2008 4:43 pm

Yes I know this but unfortunately my stud extractor is the type that fits like a socket over the end of the stud. Steve F has kindly offered to lend me a more heavy duty type that grips the stud lower down so hopefully that should do it

Steve R
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#24 PostAuthor: Steve R » Mon Dec 01, 2008 10:54 am

I used 2 pairs of mole grips clamped as hard as I could manage near the base at as far an angle apart from each other as possible to try and even the force, took some doing but worked eventually.

fredswat

stud removal

#25 PostAuthor: fredswat » Sat Dec 06, 2008 6:54 pm

Last stud snapped off - Crankcase is now at my local engineering firm. Here's hoping they can get out what's left. This bike is fighting me all the way

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Garn 1
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#26 PostAuthor: Garn 1 » Sun Dec 07, 2008 7:11 pm

Very dissappointed to hear of your situation, with the last stud, particularly are I said ....no trouble!

Tell me did you have the torque on the stud near the base as suggested by others did you end up borrowing a different stud extractor or did you keep trying with the extractor that only grips the top of the stud. I'll worry now, about the next time I have that job.

Give us some feedback when all is well.
RegardZ
Garn (Sydney) Z1, Z1A, Z1B and Z900-A4

fredswat

Stud Removal

#27 PostAuthor: fredswat » Sun Dec 07, 2008 7:29 pm

Yes I borrowed a much more heavy duty extractor that gripped the stud near the bottom. It's a shame as I am trying desperatly to get the cases Vapour blasted before christmas so that I can start reassembly during the holiday. Oh well I will just have to be patient and perhaps move on to stripping the carbs

Steve R
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#28 PostAuthor: Steve R » Mon Dec 08, 2008 3:12 pm

If the engineering company use spark erosion it will get it all out likr magic with no damage to the threads.


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