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erratic tickover
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
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- Regular Poster
- Posts: 74
- Joined: 27th Jul 2007
- Location: Saltash,cornwall
i think its a pirranha one, took the carbs off last night and re-set them as it describes in the manual (haynes though so probably wrong!) adjusted the throttles by eye, re-set the pilot air screws, re-set the butterfly stops min and max, also adjusted the float vavles bent the tangs up a tad,mine were all level with the rest of the brass piece that holds the floats together (dont know what other peoples are like?)put back on and fired up, after warming her up i was able to get a slightly better tickover and i could get the revs to climb very slightly by screwing in the air screws but to the point where they were almost totally screwed in!! still stalling if i go down to anywhere near the 1000rpm mark, today ive bought a gunsons colourtune so i will fit this and see what the mixture is like at tickover
will keep you posted!
(p.s just checked and the ignition is a newtronics,not pirranha)
will keep you posted!
(p.s just checked and the ignition is a newtronics,not pirranha)
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- Regular Poster
- Posts: 74
- Joined: 27th Jul 2007
- Location: Saltash,cornwall
ta i am checking timing tomorrow so will see how i go.used the gunson its a great little tool only £22 from halfords adjusted all the air screws till a nice blue flash was seen in the colourtune unfortunatly when i removed plug no.2 the bloody helicoil came out with it f****r!!!! still will sort another one at work tomorrow and have another go.
Pigford wrote:Newtronics (wot woz Pirhana) is an optical system, and can only be set accurately out of direct sunlight![]()
Best to check timing in the garage, door shut with a (not too bright) light
Thats good advice from Mark, Newtronics are very good but not in direct sunlight, made that mistake with kettle.... also don't get too close with the strobe.......causes a few errors... learned the hard way
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- Regular Poster
- Posts: 74
- Joined: 27th Jul 2007
- Location: Saltash,cornwall
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- Regular Poster
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- Joined: 27th Jul 2007
- Location: Saltash,cornwall
- RALPHARAMA
- Area Rep.
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- Joined: 19th May 2007
- Location: Pensford, Somerset
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Taffus wrote:Dunno about Sunday but the roll cal for calstock is me, Steve Bowdler and Ralph (VDUK)
There may even be a close encounter of the pork kind

Ralph Ferrand
Z1000A1 (1977), Z1300A5 (1983), Z900A4 (1976) GPZ1100 Unitrak (1983)(project), RD250B (1975)(project), ZRX1200R (2005) DT175MX (1981) YZF R6 (1999)
http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk
Z1000A1 (1977), Z1300A5 (1983), Z900A4 (1976) GPZ1100 Unitrak (1983)(project), RD250B (1975)(project), ZRX1200R (2005) DT175MX (1981) YZF R6 (1999)
http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk
- steve bowdler
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- Location: swansea s.wales
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- Regular Poster
- Posts: 74
- Joined: 27th Jul 2007
- Location: Saltash,cornwall
sorry to get back to the original post but i tried to do the ignition timing today the timing was slightly out on both sides however i ran out of adjustment before i could line up the marks also the backplate was turned as far as it would go, the advance/retard unit is still in place and when you rev the engine the timing marks move to the left of the window in the backplate making the timing even further out? i reset the plate to the middle of the slot and moved both pickups to the middle of there slots just as the timing gun packed up!!!!! abandoned the zed for now spent 2 hours putting the gpz900r back together as im off out to the exeter classic thingy at 7.45 am tomorrow will have another go on monday anybody got any ideas as to why im running out of adjustment before the timing lines up?
Hi Grumpus my dyna S has three screws in the backplate and of course only two pickups. (reminds me of my JOTA but in reverse, three into two wont go) The guy who installed it was mr perfect. Seriously he did everything with a vernier and a micrometer and still couldnt get the hole spacings in the middle. The amount of rotational movement on the pickups is about 2 degrees (possibly 3-4 mm of movement in the slots) however the amount of movement in the backplate is about 20 degrees ( approx 3/4 inch to an inch of slotting.
Still the backplate has to be wound round to the end of the slots in order to set the correct timing. Recently i have had to elongate these holes slightly with a round file to get the timing spot on. Same was true for Andy Z1R's timing a month ago. (Dyna S). Needless to say i have also had to elongate the slots which fix the timing cover since these now overlaped the holes!!!!!
I am going to guess that your set up looks similar but i have never seen one and i suspect that a tiny bit of wear in the a and r unit mulitplied by the distance from centre on a concentric basis explains my troubles. Maybe yours too.
One thing i havn't tried yet is to lift the moving part of the advance unit and rotate it 180 degrees. This could conceivably bring it all back to centre. Needless to say you then need to switch the coil feed wires!!!
FYI are you using the battery on the bike to power the strobe? Better to use one from another remote source. I see you have another available and a remote battery gives less interference on the strobe.
Grandmother and eggs but you never know what has already been tested etc.
AL
Still the backplate has to be wound round to the end of the slots in order to set the correct timing. Recently i have had to elongate these holes slightly with a round file to get the timing spot on. Same was true for Andy Z1R's timing a month ago. (Dyna S). Needless to say i have also had to elongate the slots which fix the timing cover since these now overlaped the holes!!!!!
I am going to guess that your set up looks similar but i have never seen one and i suspect that a tiny bit of wear in the a and r unit mulitplied by the distance from centre on a concentric basis explains my troubles. Maybe yours too.
One thing i havn't tried yet is to lift the moving part of the advance unit and rotate it 180 degrees. This could conceivably bring it all back to centre. Needless to say you then need to switch the coil feed wires!!!
FYI are you using the battery on the bike to power the strobe? Better to use one from another remote source. I see you have another available and a remote battery gives less interference on the strobe.
Grandmother and eggs but you never know what has already been tested etc.
AL
1981 J1
- RALPHARAMA
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I have Dyna-S on my Zed, and mine is also at the end of the adjustment and I also had to elongate my slotted screws. I also had to adjust one of the pickups as they weren't quite in sync.
I suspect that the Old Gurl might be pinking a little, so I am minded to try retarding the ignition a bit to see if that helps. I have timed her dynamically, but that makes the assumption the timing marks are correct and if Piglet is to believed this isn't always the case. I will play some more.
You haven't mentioned balancing the carbs - have you? If not that would defo explain the lumpy tickover. I assume you have dumped the NGKs and fitted Densos? So many folk on here have had shite running form NGK plugs.
I suspect that the Old Gurl might be pinking a little, so I am minded to try retarding the ignition a bit to see if that helps. I have timed her dynamically, but that makes the assumption the timing marks are correct and if Piglet is to believed this isn't always the case. I will play some more.
You haven't mentioned balancing the carbs - have you? If not that would defo explain the lumpy tickover. I assume you have dumped the NGKs and fitted Densos? So many folk on here have had shite running form NGK plugs.
Ralph Ferrand
Z1000A1 (1977), Z1300A5 (1983), Z900A4 (1976) GPZ1100 Unitrak (1983)(project), RD250B (1975)(project), ZRX1200R (2005) DT175MX (1981) YZF R6 (1999)
http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk
Z1000A1 (1977), Z1300A5 (1983), Z900A4 (1976) GPZ1100 Unitrak (1983)(project), RD250B (1975)(project), ZRX1200R (2005) DT175MX (1981) YZF R6 (1999)
http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk
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