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Poor running below 2000 rpm

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PAULJAC47
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#16 PostAuthor: PAULJAC47 » Fri Sep 09, 2011 4:51 pm

If its the air pilot screw its inlet is from one of the small inlets from the carb air inlets(air filter side)spray some carb cleaner down it with screw an spring removed and see where it comes out if at all,like i said before No1 is usually the culprit as if it stand on the sidestand this is where the crud collects,bad news is sometimes these drilling become so clogged no amount of sonic cleaning etc will shift...Good luck
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#17 PostAuthor: njwmct » Fri Sep 09, 2011 4:56 pm

PAULJAC47 wrote:If its the air pilot screw its inlet is from one of the small inlets from the carb air inlets(air filter side)spray some carb cleaner down it with screw an spring removed and see where it comes out if at all,like i said before No1 is usually the culprit as if it stand on the sidestand this is where the crud collects,bad news is sometimes these drilling become so clogged no amount of sonic cleaning etc will shift...Good luck

OK - will strip it again & take a look

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#18 PostAuthor: kev edwards » Fri Sep 09, 2011 7:34 pm

Wind the tickover right up. :lol: :roll:

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#19 PostAuthor: njwmct » Fri Sep 09, 2011 8:06 pm

kev edwards wrote:Wind the tickover right up. :lol: :roll:


Got any more bright ideas ?!

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#20 PostAuthor: kev edwards » Sat Sep 10, 2011 8:34 am

njwmct wrote:
kev edwards wrote:Wind the tickover right up. :lol: :roll:


Got any more bright ideas ?!

No offence intended there NJWCMT, just a bit of humour, we have all had very similar problems wit these old zeds and more often than not it is fueling, chances are there is some varnish in the system on that carb, i believe the pilot circuit comes out just in front of the slide at the engine side with a very thin bit of wire yo may be able to push any rubbish backwards in the tract then blow it through, i have seen little bits of varnish stuck in these under magnification.

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#21 PostAuthor: njwmct » Sat Sep 10, 2011 9:50 am

PAULJAC47 wrote:If its the air pilot screw its inlet is from one of the small inlets from the carb air inlets(air filter side)spray some carb cleaner down it with screw an spring removed and see where it comes out if at all,like i said before No1 is usually the culprit as if it stand on the sidestand this is where the crud collects,bad news is sometimes these drilling become so clogged no amount of sonic cleaning etc will shift...Good luck


Stripped the carbs out again this morning & all venturi are completely clear so at least that can be eliminated - but absolutely no idea where to go now

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#22 PostAuthor: z1bman » Sat Sep 10, 2011 10:04 am

what are your compression readings?

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#23 PostAuthor: PAULJAC47 » Sat Sep 10, 2011 4:07 pm

Hi does the bike still not respond when you turn mix screw?if not get hold of a Gunson colourtune at least you will be able to see the burn and get a good idea what is going on here,i had an A4 just like this at the end there was a score in the needle!!!

Just a thought if you start her from cold is the symtom the same when using some choke?as the choke by passes the pilot circuit ,just a thought!!!
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#24 PostAuthor: njwmct » Sat Sep 10, 2011 4:31 pm

PAULJAC47 wrote:Hi does the bike still not respond when you turn mix screw?if not get hold of a Gunson colourtune at least you will be able to see the burn and get a good idea what is going on here,i had an A4 just like this at the end there was a score in the needle!!!

Just a thought if you start her from cold is the symtom the same when using some choke?as the choke by passes the pilot circuit ,just a thought!!!


Hi
I'll have to try it from cold with a little choke to see what happens

Still no response to the Pilot screw on No.1 - also although exhaust pipe on no1 is getting hot if you remove the plug cap it does'nt make any noticeable difference to the engine at tickover - so at tickover I think it's only firing properly on 2,3&4 - I have checked & there is a spark at no.1 plug.

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#25 PostAuthor: z1bman » Sat Sep 10, 2011 4:34 pm

yes but how good is the spark compared to the other cylinders?

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#26 PostAuthor: njwmct » Sat Sep 10, 2011 4:58 pm

z1bman wrote:yes but how good is the spark compared to the other cylinders?


To be honest I'm not really sure.

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#27 PostAuthor: z1bman » Sat Sep 10, 2011 5:06 pm

did you try the test which i have put in a previous post

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#28 PostAuthor: njwmct » Sat Sep 10, 2011 5:35 pm

z1bman wrote:did you try the test which i have put in a previous post


No but I will try that & see how the spark compares - thanks for all your Help & advice

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#29 PostAuthor: njwmct » Sat Sep 10, 2011 6:05 pm

z1bman wrote:did you try the test which i have put in a previous post


Forgot to mention - when I was removing plug caps while the bike was ticking over - when I pulled no.4 plug cap off I could feel electrical pulses through my arm - when I pulled no.1 cap off I could'nt feel anything so maybe there will be a weaker spark on no.1 ?

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#30 PostAuthor: Z1parR » Sat Sep 10, 2011 6:10 pm

It's a test best carried out with your tongue in each plug cap one at a time , much more accurate i find :up
0172 . Geoff Parr


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