Are you keeping a tab on how much it's costing? Or is that a silly question?
Hello Guest User,
Please feel free to have a look around the forum but be aware that as an unregistered guest you can't see all of it and you can't post.
To access these 'Registered Users Only' areas simply register and login.
Please feel free to have a look around the forum but be aware that as an unregistered guest you can't see all of it and you can't post.
To access these 'Registered Users Only' areas simply register and login.
73 Resto - "Now this is not the end. It is not even...
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
-
phil churchett
- Hardcore
- Posts: 3009
- Joined: 28th Mar 2003
- Location: Warwickshire
Aw shucks!....
Phil - yes I am keeping a tight costing of this!
I'm fortunate that the motor is in great shape - so that's a lot of dosh saved. I'm also making it a policy to re-use all possible original parts except seat cover, main loom, spokes and some small fasteners.
The majority cost will be for blasting, electroplating and specialist engine finishing, together with the unavoidable engine spares (cam stuff, gaskets, seals etc) chain/sprockets and tyres.
I'll let you know costings at project's end.
Phil - yes I am keeping a tight costing of this!
I'm fortunate that the motor is in great shape - so that's a lot of dosh saved. I'm also making it a policy to re-use all possible original parts except seat cover, main loom, spokes and some small fasteners.
The majority cost will be for blasting, electroplating and specialist engine finishing, together with the unavoidable engine spares (cam stuff, gaskets, seals etc) chain/sprockets and tyres.
I'll let you know costings at project's end.
Chris, I look forward to updates on this thread more than my monthly mags. Excellent descriptions and pics.
Frame looks good too. I was reading about one of Dave Marsdens restorations where he had his frame powder coated with satin black and then a second coat with gloss black. Any ideas about this ?
Frame looks good too. I was reading about one of Dave Marsdens restorations where he had his frame powder coated with satin black and then a second coat with gloss black. Any ideas about this ?
Cheers Pasc.
Powder coating? Won't have it in the house. Just a personal preference, but I have never seen a powder coat which looks anything like the original paint. It's just way too gloopy and you lose all that lovely definition on the welds and other details - like the frame number!
If Dave put 2 coats on his frame the tubing must be nigh on 40mm thick by now!
Powder coating? Won't have it in the house. Just a personal preference, but I have never seen a powder coat which looks anything like the original paint. It's just way too gloopy and you lose all that lovely definition on the welds and other details - like the frame number!
If Dave put 2 coats on his frame the tubing must be nigh on 40mm thick by now!
So how's it been going? Chuffin' slog probably sums it up but, come next weekend, the now completed motor will go back into the frame and up on the bike lift again. Next time she comes off the stand she'll be finished. Simple as that.
So.... progress to date then.
THE MOTOR - Crankcases barrels head etc were collected from Doug Cox in mid Jan. Finish is terrific as usual - nice and thin - unmistakably paint - yet ultra tough and flexible enough not to chip when struck.
Next job was to THOROUGHLY wash and blast through all parts, paying particular attention to the oilways in upper crankcase half and head. I used hot water with a little detergent in a nice deep sink, and a compressed air blow gun. Result a very effective pressure washer! Parts were then THOROUGHLY hosed off with fresh water and dried with compressed air. That oughta do it!! There's no guarantee you can get out all blast media, but I feel I've done all I can.
Next ALL threaded holes needed to be cleaned out with a thread restorer. Once again this is ESSENTIAL to clear out any remaining blast media allowing bolts, studs and screws to re-thread properly. This taken CHUFFIN' AGES, but don't cheat on it. IF you skip a thread, half assemble the thing then find one barrel stud won't screw in you're just not going to be pleased! And if you then clean the thread out, the crud will fall onto your cranshaft - which is not good.
Final preparatory job is to restore the bare alloy highlights to the lateral fins on barrels and head. This is a signature of the 73. Don't leave this till the motor's back together - it's FAR easier to work with components on the bench.
I did mine with a 3 stage process. Coarse file, fine file, 240g wet'n' dry and finish each highlight in a nice straight vertical line using a craft knife to give a sharp line to the 'stops'. This job took me 6 hours. You just can't afford one slip. ho hum
So, reassembly can begin. My home made stand came back into the shed and upper crankcase half was bolted up ready to receive the crank and gearbox. The whole re-assembly process is actually relatively simple yet still takes ages. Two cautionary notes:
Don't forget your 'O' rings and
Tighten all bolts BY HAND first using a stubby ratchet handle or a short shank wrench. Only use a torque wrench as a final check, and even then, go up in 2 or 3 stages to final torque.
As you'll see I was fortunate enough to be lent a piston ring compressor - just fantastic - can't see how it would be possible without it. Other factory tool I used was this clutch hub tool. Again, fantastic - so good in fact I'm having a copy made by my local forge. Advantage of this design is its ajustability - should suit just about any clutch size you'll come across.
Quick detail of the generator lead grommet which is often the Achilles Heel of the Zeds. Only way to ensure an oil tight seal is the thoroughly clean both grommet and casing cutout removing all old sealer. Finally roughen surfaces with wet'n'dry then clean finally with carb cleaner. Apply Kawasaki Bond sealer generously, insert grommet then clamp in place and LEAVE TO SET to ensure a strong bond.
Final job is to restore the embossed 'DOHC' emblems. This I did by cleaning the embossed areas with cellulose thinners and a stiff bristled brush. When all lose paint and old polish has gone, apply SATIN black enamel sparingly, allow to go off for a minute or two then wipe over with kitchen towel soaked in lighter fuel stretched over a thin timber batten. This removes excess paint really nicely leaving a good sharp edge to the emblem. Apply second coat next day and you're all set.
And that's all there is to it. I have to say now she's back together this is one impressive motor - doubly so in black - and I'm really pleased. If it works as good as it looks then we're in business.
Next up, the motor will go into the frame using the 'put it on its side and drop the frame over it' technique. All very technical - Fingers crossed.
So.... progress to date then.
THE MOTOR - Crankcases barrels head etc were collected from Doug Cox in mid Jan. Finish is terrific as usual - nice and thin - unmistakably paint - yet ultra tough and flexible enough not to chip when struck.
Next job was to THOROUGHLY wash and blast through all parts, paying particular attention to the oilways in upper crankcase half and head. I used hot water with a little detergent in a nice deep sink, and a compressed air blow gun. Result a very effective pressure washer! Parts were then THOROUGHLY hosed off with fresh water and dried with compressed air. That oughta do it!! There's no guarantee you can get out all blast media, but I feel I've done all I can.
Next ALL threaded holes needed to be cleaned out with a thread restorer. Once again this is ESSENTIAL to clear out any remaining blast media allowing bolts, studs and screws to re-thread properly. This taken CHUFFIN' AGES, but don't cheat on it. IF you skip a thread, half assemble the thing then find one barrel stud won't screw in you're just not going to be pleased! And if you then clean the thread out, the crud will fall onto your cranshaft - which is not good.
Final preparatory job is to restore the bare alloy highlights to the lateral fins on barrels and head. This is a signature of the 73. Don't leave this till the motor's back together - it's FAR easier to work with components on the bench.
I did mine with a 3 stage process. Coarse file, fine file, 240g wet'n' dry and finish each highlight in a nice straight vertical line using a craft knife to give a sharp line to the 'stops'. This job took me 6 hours. You just can't afford one slip. ho hum
So, reassembly can begin. My home made stand came back into the shed and upper crankcase half was bolted up ready to receive the crank and gearbox. The whole re-assembly process is actually relatively simple yet still takes ages. Two cautionary notes:
Don't forget your 'O' rings and
Tighten all bolts BY HAND first using a stubby ratchet handle or a short shank wrench. Only use a torque wrench as a final check, and even then, go up in 2 or 3 stages to final torque.
As you'll see I was fortunate enough to be lent a piston ring compressor - just fantastic - can't see how it would be possible without it. Other factory tool I used was this clutch hub tool. Again, fantastic - so good in fact I'm having a copy made by my local forge. Advantage of this design is its ajustability - should suit just about any clutch size you'll come across.
Quick detail of the generator lead grommet which is often the Achilles Heel of the Zeds. Only way to ensure an oil tight seal is the thoroughly clean both grommet and casing cutout removing all old sealer. Finally roughen surfaces with wet'n'dry then clean finally with carb cleaner. Apply Kawasaki Bond sealer generously, insert grommet then clamp in place and LEAVE TO SET to ensure a strong bond.
Final job is to restore the embossed 'DOHC' emblems. This I did by cleaning the embossed areas with cellulose thinners and a stiff bristled brush. When all lose paint and old polish has gone, apply SATIN black enamel sparingly, allow to go off for a minute or two then wipe over with kitchen towel soaked in lighter fuel stretched over a thin timber batten. This removes excess paint really nicely leaving a good sharp edge to the emblem. Apply second coat next day and you're all set.
And that's all there is to it. I have to say now she's back together this is one impressive motor - doubly so in black - and I'm really pleased. If it works as good as it looks then we're in business.
Next up, the motor will go into the frame using the 'put it on its side and drop the frame over it' technique. All very technical - Fingers crossed.
-
toycollector10
- 100Club
- Posts: 401
- Joined: 10th Dec 2007
- Location: New Zealand
MaineKZ wrote:Cheers Pasc.
Powder coating? Won't have it in the house. Just a personal preference, but I have never seen a powder coat which looks anything like the original paint. It's just way too gloopy and you lose all that lovely definition on the welds and other details - like the frame number!
If Dave put 2 coats on his frame the tubing must be nigh on 40mm thick by now!
Very nice job you're doing there. Yes, bloody powdercoat..I couldn't care if someone uses it on their streetfighter but on a resto? it looks ridiculous!
It will be nice to see your bike completed.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests