Hello Guest User,

Please feel free to have a look around the forum but be aware that as an unregistered guest you can't see all of it and you can't post.

To access these 'Registered Users Only' areas simply register and login.

Z1000J Engine Mods?

Need help restoring, building, or finding then try here.

Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus

Message
Author
LeeJackson
100Club
100Club
Posts: 227
Joined: 17th Oct 2015
Location: Paris, France

Z1000J Engine Mods?

#1 PostAuthor: LeeJackson » Tue Nov 17, 2015 8:36 pm

Hi All

I have started a thread on my project, in the early stages but looking for some advice on the engine.. Lots of questions sorry.. Plan is to have this as a road bike, I won't use it a lot or do big miles, but want something that won't need constant messing with yo keep it running properly..

I have stripped everything down and sent the crank off to Debbens for rebuild and welding. Now in the mean time I need to decide on what top end to put on it.. I was thinking to get GPz barrels and go to 1200, is this a wise choice or do you think something bigger is worth exploring? I see some feedback on the big blocks overheating, does anyone have any experience with these to share?

If I go for a set of GPz barrels do I need to machine the crankcase openings to accept them?

On the top end, I'll use Debbens as well, is it wise to just start with the Z1000J head or is there and advantage to using the GPZ head as a starting point?

Last question for today (there will be more :)) has anyone ever used the high temp ceramic powder coating that some people are offering? I went to get my cases done, but unfortunately a small repair was discovered when they started blasting, so either need new cases or a repair.. But I'm having second thoughts now on the ceramic powder coating, will it work, will it cause any issues by blocking up oil ways etc?

Thanks
Lee

garyd
Hardcore
Hardcore
Posts: 2558
Joined: 11th Jun 2011
Location: West of London

#2 PostAuthor: garyd » Tue Nov 17, 2015 9:34 pm

It's only worth changing the head if you can get a unitrak head. But everyone is wise to this and don't come up for sale often.

I'd go for an 1170. Best for power & reliability.

Coose
100Club
100Club
Posts: 344
Joined: 20th Apr 2015
Location: North Yorks

#3 PostAuthor: Coose » Tue Nov 17, 2015 10:01 pm

Ring Pete Stansfield of Yorkshire Rally Spares on 07969050019. He recently broke a sorted Unitrak with a 4000-mile old 1170 big bore and a nicely flowed head. He may have sold the top end now as he no-longer has it listed on eSkip, but it's worth a punt?

User avatar
Al
Hardcore
Hardcore
Posts: 2233
Joined: 21st Oct 2007
Location: Farnbronx Sin City N.E. Hants

#4 PostAuthor: Al » Tue Nov 17, 2015 10:06 pm

It's only worth changing the head if you can get a unitrak head. But everyone is wise to this and don't come up for sale often.

I'd go for an 1170. Best for power & reliability.


Agree the 1170 is the best of all worlds.
Piston kits gaskets and ring sets are still very much available unlike the 998 and 1100 variants which are pretty much unobtanium.
More than enough engine for occasional road use.
Get the right kit for the 17mm J crank.

Get some GPz 1100 barrels and get them bored. Unitrak barrels same as 1100R even better. But B1 and B2 are fine.
You dont need to open the mouths of the crankcase for 1100 barrels.

If you get a Unitrak / 1100R head / cams, all well and good but with the J crank and high crown Wiseco (10.25 ; 1) pistons you will need to get Ray to machine the exhaust valve reliefs in the pistons or the ex valves will hit on Unitrak / 1100R head only because the exhaust valves are at a different angle.
He has a the jig for doing this.
There is another 1170 kit with lower comp pistons but dont know if its available in 17mm, however you can have the 17mm small ends honed out to 18mm!
Fit an oil cooler.
If youre thinking of revving this set-up past 11,500 rpm,... dont.
The pistons will hit the head. :D

Great looking bike by the way.
That rear engine mount should be easily repairable, it is structural but because the front of the engine is rubber mounted it needs not to be over-tightened as has happened unfortunately.

AL
1981 J1

LeeJackson
100Club
100Club
Posts: 227
Joined: 17th Oct 2015
Location: Paris, France

#5 PostAuthor: LeeJackson » Tue Nov 17, 2015 10:28 pm

Thanks for the advice guys, 1170 sounds like the way forward then.

I will give these guys a shout tomorrow to see if they still have that too end, failing that I need to find some donor gpz barrels and decide what to do with the head..

Cheers
Lee


Return to “Bike Help”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 13 guests