Ballast Resistor - to be or not to be?

[njwmct]

My Z1000 MkII has the original Kawasaki electronic ignition i.e standard pick-up coils + IC igniter.
I now have a set of 2.2 Ohm Dyna Coils but I'm a little unsure of what to do about the ballast resistor.

The Kawasaki workshop manual states:
Standard Ignition Coil Resistance of 1.2 - 1.9 Ohms
Ballast Resistor at 1.5 - 1.9 Ohms (I've put a meter on it & it is within the range stated)

I'm not sure whether I should keep or remove the ballast resistor (I read somewhere that it's there to stop the standard coils from getting too hot?)
If I remove the ballast resistor do I risk damaging / overloading something in the ignition system?

Should I keep the ballast resistor or remove it ?

[Taffus]

Give dyna a call they are very helpful

[lude]

If you remove the ballast rsistor you could have up to 20%+ more current going throught he IC igniter, dont know how robust they are, may go pop lol.

Try running with the ballast resisitor the worst that can happen is a weak spark.

[Rich]

If you are using the Mk II igniter box keep the ballast resistor. If you use a J/GPZ ignitor box then you don't need the resistor

[750steve]

If its any help i didnt use mine again (Z750 Twin) but then again i added an Electronic Ignition from USA. Apparently only euro spec bikes got them & Dyna is American so i'd say you're safe not using it, but im no electrics wizz!

[Aztec Warrior]

Blimey. I found an answer via the 'search' section.!
Anyhow. My ST has had it's HT coils replaced with standard type aftermarket's and the other chap has bypassed the ballast resistor with a 30amp blade fuse. I've had no issues yet, but I've only done about 700 miles. Not sure why he did this and have not tried it out without this mod. I just wondered, like the author here, is it important!

[PAULJAC47]

The ballast resistor reduces current in the coil at idle and lower RPMs. It protects your points (or electronic ignition) and the coil from overheating. It may not get damaged immediately, but in the long run it may shorten the life of those items.

If your system was designed for the ballast, and you are using the stock coils and stock points (or stock electronic ignition), you should keep the ballast.

Apologies to Kz forum as an aside are you using dyna 2000 or s ?

[Aztec Warrior]

The ballast resistor reduces current in the coil at idle and lower RPMs. It protects your points (or electronic ignition) and the coil from overheating. It may not get damaged immediately, but in the long run it may shorten the life of those items.

If your system was designed for the ballast, and you are using the stock coils and stock points (or stock electronic ignition), you should keep the ballast.

Apologies to Kz forum as an aside are you using dyna 2000 or s ?

Thanks for that.
My ST is standard, magnetic pick-ups, with a pair of £38 coils/leads and four new NGK caps.
Are these resistors expensive, or is there an alternative, Maplins ect?
I'm assuming my resistor was faulty and it was by-passed as a 'fix'. Seller assured me it was ok, but then again, I'm still dealing with his 'handywork' today!

[PAULJAC47]

Ballast resistors are normally wire wound type to disapate heat,if you can find one of same type and ohmic rating should be ok..

[Aztec Warrior]

Ballast resistors are normally wire wound type to disapate heat,if you can find one of same type and ohmic rating should be ok..

Thanks again. Turned out I've stumbled upon this very subject in another forum tonight, all on the same theme of the voltage drop to the coils through a tired loom/battery ect. Most of these others (CB, Goldwing and Bullet owners) swore there bikes work better with the by-pass.
For what it's worth, I noted my ST and it's 18ah battery was rapidly running down on the starter doing some testing yesterday, again, something to do with the voltage drop to the coils/pick-up I believe. But it went nearly first prod on the kicker.