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dyna fitting

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wayno
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dyna fitting

#1 PostAuthor: wayno » Wed Oct 16, 2013 4:24 pm

fitted a dyna s today following chrisru thread, but could/cannot get a spark at the plug, tried a screwdiver tester in the pluglead while turning the advancer with nothing, but put the tester on the bottom terminal on the front of the dyna coils-nothing, turn the advancer and the light comes on. switched coils and same thing, am i missing something or are coils knackered?

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z1bman
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#2 PostAuthor: z1bman » Wed Oct 16, 2013 4:44 pm

is the kill switch of ?

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#3 PostAuthor: PAULJAC47 » Wed Oct 16, 2013 5:39 pm

Whats the tester you are using,it s not a neon screwdriver for Ac mains by any chance? see last pargraph....A low-cost type of test lamp only contacts one side of the circuit under test, and relies on stray capacitance and current passing through the user's body to complete the circuit. The device may have the form of a screwdriver. The tip of the tester is touched to the conductor being tested (for instance, it can be used on a wire in a switch, or inserted into a hole of an electric socket). A neon lamp takes very little current to light, and thus can use the user's body capacitance to earth ground to complete the circuit.
Screwdriver-type test lamps are very inexpensive, but cannot meet the construction requirements of UK GS 38. If the shaft is exposed a shock hazard to the user exists, and the internal construction of the tester provides no protection against short-circuit faults. Failure of the resistor and lamp series network can put the user in direct metallic contact with the circuit under test. For example, water trapped inside the screwdriver may allow enough leakage current to shock the user. Even if an internal short circuit does not electrocute the user, the resulting electric shock may result in a fall or other injury. The lamp provides no indication below the strike voltage of the neon lamp, and so cannot detect certain hazardous leakage conditions. Since it relies on capacitance to complete the circuit, direct-current potential cannot be reliably indicated.
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wayno
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#4 PostAuthor: wayno » Wed Oct 16, 2013 7:30 pm

Yes, kill switch is off. As for rhe tester it is a screwdriver type with a lead plugged in the end, with a crocodile clip on the end not the type you put your thumb on the end, if thats what you meant.

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#5 PostAuthor: z1bman » Wed Oct 16, 2013 8:09 pm

kill switch needs to be in the run position for the plug to fire

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#6 PostAuthor: Z1parR » Wed Oct 16, 2013 8:19 pm

Switch ignition on and push a plug into the plug lead .
Hold the plug between thumb and forefinger and switch the killswitch from off to run and back again .
It's a guaranteed go/no go test :lol:
0172 . Geoff Parr

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#7 PostAuthor: wayno » Wed Oct 16, 2013 10:06 pm

z1bman wrote:kill switch needs to be in the run position for the plug to fire


Sorry, I meant its ok e in run position

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dyna fitting

#8 PostAuthor: gpjes » Thu Oct 17, 2013 7:50 am

12 volt or so at spade connectors that plug on back of ign coil definitely helps, think what you disturbed when you fit them, usually a good place to start! :D :D
Jes
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wayno
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#9 PostAuthor: wayno » Thu Oct 17, 2013 4:41 pm

Ok , disconnected everything,removed dyna, replaced everything and now got a spark. Checked the voltage at the spade before the coil and getting 10.1 v, with 11.9 at the battery, so got myself a relay to fit the weekend which i hope will give a better spark as its a bit weak at the moment, can hear it more than see it.


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