As you can tell, I've just signed up to Z1 and I'm hoping to improve the performance of a 1981 CSR1000. Never owned a Kawasaki before so all new to me. I have so many questions so any help I can get would be well appreciated.
1.Can I put a different speedo head on the bike as it only shows 80mph and how do I have a new one calibrated?
2.Which carbs should I fit to improve performance or can I have the originals re-jetted?
3.Can I leave out the reed valves on the camshaft cover, do I block them off completely with metal inserts or just leave the valves in and run a pipe from one outlet to the other?
4.I have had a constant oil leak on the cam cover but I have taken out the rubber seals, used liquid gasket to re-seal. Is this likely to stop the leak?
5.Can I improve the sound of the exhaust?
6.Where can I purchase a new set of HT leads and caps for my CSR1000? (Standard or upgraded, I really don’t mind.)
7.How can I fit a fuel gauge and is the CSR wired up for one?
8.Which silencers are best to get a really crisp exhaust note. I used to fit megaphones on a highly tuned Triumph 500 and they sounded so sweet and crackled.
9.Where can I source the correct alternative iridium spark plugs 1981 CSR1000
I would post pictures and fill in my profile if I could work out how.
Regards
Derek
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Which Carbs suitable for a CSR to improve performance
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
You can get a K&N filter for the standard airbox, dynajet kit with needles for the carbs, and an ultrasonic clean will give pretty much what is needed without going over to round slides or flat slide carbs with individual filters. RS, FCR And Cr carbs are possible alternatives, none of them cheap.
If you have the twin speedo / tacho like the early J model you should be able to change the speedo head for a UK one and a 'Miles' odometer.
If you have the 'miles' odo just change the speedo head as the calibration for miles and kilometers is in the odometer i believe (i have done this in reverse with 80 mph speedo and miles odo and it woks perfectly).
I think you need to block the exhaust passageways to the clean air system and then remove the valves.
APE do billet plates to block these off. My original J head passageways were blocked off with the same stuff you use to glue the 'D' rubbers in with. Loctite 5910 from memory.
Leave the 'D' seals a little proud and for 24 hours after glueing in.
New cam cover gasket and put Loctite 5910 or youre own personal preference on the threads of the four screws that go through the 'D' seals.
*
Dyna leads or Taylor leads are two possibilities. There may be issues using plug caps if they are the sort with internal resistors!
Debbens, Ebay, Z1 Enterprises, Z Power, Grumpy 1260, Gremlin Racetech, etc etc.
If using irridium plugs you need to have it running perfectly becasue a misfiring cylinder, rich or lean mixture will kill irridium plgs the same as standard plugs.
As i understand it Irridium plugs were designed to extend the period between servicing on modern engines not to cure running problems. That said some people swear by them on Zeds.
AL
If you have the twin speedo / tacho like the early J model you should be able to change the speedo head for a UK one and a 'Miles' odometer.
If you have the 'miles' odo just change the speedo head as the calibration for miles and kilometers is in the odometer i believe (i have done this in reverse with 80 mph speedo and miles odo and it woks perfectly).
I think you need to block the exhaust passageways to the clean air system and then remove the valves.
APE do billet plates to block these off. My original J head passageways were blocked off with the same stuff you use to glue the 'D' rubbers in with. Loctite 5910 from memory.
Leave the 'D' seals a little proud and for 24 hours after glueing in.
New cam cover gasket and put Loctite 5910 or youre own personal preference on the threads of the four screws that go through the 'D' seals.
*
Dyna leads or Taylor leads are two possibilities. There may be issues using plug caps if they are the sort with internal resistors!
Debbens, Ebay, Z1 Enterprises, Z Power, Grumpy 1260, Gremlin Racetech, etc etc.
If using irridium plugs you need to have it running perfectly becasue a misfiring cylinder, rich or lean mixture will kill irridium plgs the same as standard plugs.
As i understand it Irridium plugs were designed to extend the period between servicing on modern engines not to cure running problems. That said some people swear by them on Zeds.
AL
1981 J1
-
silverstreak
Thanks for all the advice
Thank you so much Al. This was most informative. The ultrasonic clean, how do I arrange to have this done?
Don't know if plug leads have internal resistors or not but I'll find out.
Haven't yet worked out whether I can post photos on this forum section. I always think a picture paints a thousand words.
Thanks again for your help.
Regards
Derek
Don't know if plug leads have internal resistors or not but I'll find out.
Haven't yet worked out whether I can post photos on this forum section. I always think a picture paints a thousand words.
Thanks again for your help.
Regards
Derek
Filters
http://www.knfilters.co.uk/search/appse ... ngine=1000
M&P direct were the cheapest last time i looked but that was three years ago!!
What area are you in?
Dogsbollox (West London) and Gez (midlands) do carb services amongst other things.
You could buy you're own US cleaner or find one through the membership.
Originally i paid a generic US cleaning co. to do mine and it was a waste of money.
You need someone who knows these bikes and these carbs to do it properly.
As far as exhausts go do a 'search forum' on the subject, its a pretty well trodden subject, as is ultra sonic cleaning.
For pictures there is a help post in Discussion forum that makes it UN-believeably complicated for you
Some folks will use child labour to re-solve that particular problem as their minds are clearer and less cluttered.
Why do you want to go above 80 MPH?
http://www.knfilters.co.uk/search/appse ... ngine=1000
M&P direct were the cheapest last time i looked but that was three years ago!!
What area are you in?
Dogsbollox (West London) and Gez (midlands) do carb services amongst other things.
You could buy you're own US cleaner or find one through the membership.
Originally i paid a generic US cleaning co. to do mine and it was a waste of money.
You need someone who knows these bikes and these carbs to do it properly.
As far as exhausts go do a 'search forum' on the subject, its a pretty well trodden subject, as is ultra sonic cleaning.
For pictures there is a help post in Discussion forum that makes it UN-believeably complicated for you
Some folks will use child labour to re-solve that particular problem as their minds are clearer and less cluttered.
Why do you want to go above 80 MPH?
1981 J1
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