Gpz1100b2 starter clutch?

[pluto]

Hi All,
I have a rattle from the engine that has just appeared, it sounds pretty rough at tick over. However when the revs go above 1000rpm the noise disappears. The bike still goes very well. I balanced the carbs and cleaned them out but that made no difference. The noise seems loudest from the alternator side so I have removed the cover to inspect. The starter clutch is very floppy behind the rotor and if wobbled can make the noise I get at tick over, the cog behind that and connected to the rotor is solid and moves as it should, the alternator is secure in the case. Is this how they should be or is mine worn out and flopping around or do I need to look elsewhere? I can't undo the rotor nut and don't have a puller so if the clutch is at fault what do I do next?
Alternatively it is summer so if I keep using it what damage can I do to the rest of the engine?
Many Thanks in advance.
Dave

[z1bman]

probably the Allen bolts have come loose on the back of the starter clutch

[london calling]

I think you can remove the rotor with the standard rear wheel spindle if my old grey cells are working properly.
An air gun and a proper rotor removal tool make things easier though.
When I last did one several years ago,I just removed the allen bolts that hold the starter clutch to the rotor,cleaned them thoroughly,applied the Loctite and air gunned it all back together.
It's worth checking the starter rollers and the little springs whilst everything is apart.
Sorry for stating the obvious,but removing the rotor is usually the hard bit.
My allen bolts were just hanging on

[Al]

Dont ride it.
Under the right (wrong) circumstances the heads of the bolts can jam the starter freewheel gear and drive the starter motor to about a zillion revs per minute.
Back wheel spindle is a good fit for the thread as Jack says and that assumes that you can stop the crank turning whilst youre loading up the thread.

I have had to put it in gear and sprag the back wheel.

Dont under any circumstances slide hammer the wheel spindle to get the rotor off and similarly if you grip the rotor with anything other than the proper tool it will shatter the magnets.

It really is a sod of a thing and i had a spell of it happening to me and Andy Z1R dragbike does it regularly but it usually snaps the three bolts rather than loosens them.

Check the rotor 'Core' visually they can crack.

AL

[pluto]

Thank you all,
I have an electric HD impact gun which worked on the clutch nut, I can pinch the wheel spindle out of my A2 and pop it in gear and strap the rear wheel to the frame with a ratchet strap and hope it comes off. I will leave it for tonight though! I will let you know the level off success or otherwise.
Thanks again
Dave

[debben1]

Hello Dave
Check the surface of the starter gear too, when you refit the starter clutch assembly but before you fit the idler wheel check the starter ring rotates freely in one direction, it shouldnt feel loose but should turn freely, this free play is controlled by the damper ring (steel and rubber doughnut shaped peice that rubs between the crankcase and inside edge of the strarter clutch assembly, they are available in differnet thickness from Kawasaki but often we find they have been put together wrong over the years, Regards, Steve

[pluto]

An update; Using my Clarke electric impact gun shifted the rotor nut without problems, the spindle off my A2 fitted the rotor but I couldn't turn it strongly enough to pop the rotor off - it has a round end with a 6mm hole in and the bar I fitted in the hole kept bending. I welded an old impact socket to the end of the spindle and used the impact gun and the rotor came off!
Now the bad news - the allen bolts had nearly come out and the springs and caps in the starter clutch were demolished and there are a lot of bits of metal missing! Next job then is to take off the sump and clean it out and hope for the best.
Thanks again for your help
Dave

[london calling]

Fingerz crossed for you Dave