Z1000 turbo, light project. Based in Norway

[Teddy]

Starting a new thread, with pictures from a light project i'm starting on. The bike is a -77 z1000 , 1200 ccm with Rayjay turbo. Will post pictures now and then.....

The bike.




Turbo dismantled



Will come back later with more info/pictures.

PS. Can i call it light????

[Pigford]

Teddy, great story this..... following with great interest... not much to the turbo really, until you want to get it running RIGHT
Nice ring spanner too

[Steve R]

There doesnt look much to a turbo does there I wonder why they are so expensive?

[Pasc]

There doesnt look much to a turbo does there I wonder why they are so expensive?

Steve, the turbo spins at a phenomenal rpm (about 140000 rpm if I remember right). So the shaft and both impellor and exhaust side need to be machined and balanced to quite a high spec. It's also subjected to high temps. All the seals also need to be accurate as well due to the BOOOOOOOST.

Teddy you are making me green with envy there. Just recently got rid of two of my turbo bikes and now starting to feel a bit lost. Don't suppose you've got any spare manifolds and plenums to fit a 1000J have you ?

[Ed Z1-R]

Teddy the bike looks good
Look forward to watching the project.

[paul doran]

My new super bike has a turbo
and it ain't a hog

[RALPHARAMA]

Never had much to do with turbos. Nice to see one in bits.
Steve R - the reason they are expensive to buy, is that for aftermarket bikes et al, they are relatively short production runs and, as has already been stated, they need to be made to a high level of precision and able to stand high temperatures. I would imagine that blowers for the average turbo diesel van are pretty cheap in comparison, cos they make plenty of them. Mind you I expect that the bastards (dealers) charge an arm and a leg if you have one go pop, but when you look at the cost of a van they (the manufacturer) clearly don't pay much for them!

[Pasc]

My new super bike has a turbo
and it ain't a hog

Spill the beans then Paul, what is it ?

[fastbyme]

shame its a B flow with ur kit ..F flow is a better upgrade ....u can swap compressor wheels to a f flow and put a . 60 turbine housing on and it will flow the same a ff 40 .....if u need any rajay bits think ive still got a couple of b flows

[ROZZER]

Whats the overall plan then Teddy? Full strip and paint with trick bits or mild makeover (if turbo can be called mild).

[Teddy]

shame its a B flow with ur kit ..F flow is a better upgrade ....u can swap compressor wheels to a f flow and put a . 60 turbine housing on and it will flow the same a ff 40 .....if u need any rajay bits think ive still got a couple of b flows

Good to know. According to the previous owner, it was working ok as it is. I thought i would try it out like this. But maybe i will change it later. But thanks for your offer. Do you by any chance know what parts you have? I'm a bit in doubt about the condition of the main bearing.

[Teddy]

My main target with this bike is to get it up and running. I've started to dismantle parts and sort out whats good and whats bad. I don't need a perfect bike, as this one is a bit to far from origninal... My next step is to check out the engine. I'm gonna test the compression that is set to be 8:1, but the engine should been started/heated before i do so.... Got a problem with that as the turbo is off. Had a quick test of it and and the readout seemed even, on a cold engine.
Cheers

Does anybody by any chance know what the length of innertubes for the fork is?

[Big Fluff]

C'mon Teddy.... what's the latest, what ya been doin ?
If you've got stock pistons then 8:1 is about the absolute limit, if you're running flat top 'forged' turbo pistons then 9:1 would be more like it.
Also, you won't be able to run much boost with std pistons, sure they're strong as hell for nat asp but seem to disintegrate when being force fed with a turbo.
'Fastbyme' will no doubt be able to steer you on this project, he's quite a knowledgeable guy on blown bikes

[Teddy]

C'mon Teddy.... what's the latest, what ya been doin ?
If you've got stock pistons then 8:1 is about the absolute limit, if you're running flat top 'forged' turbo pistons then 9:1 would be more like it.
Also, you won't be able to run much boost with std pistons, sure they're strong as hell for nat asp but seem to disintegrate when being force fed with a turbo.
'Fastbyme' will no doubt be able to steer you on this project, he's quite a knowledgeable guy on blown bikes

Hi there Big Fluff.
I'm not sure what pistons installed? I have to open up the engine before i can tell you anything for sure. The previous owner told me that it was built up of parts delivered by ATP some early in the 80's but he also bought the bike like this, and has been used until he parked it aprox 3 years ago.
I've just packed down some parts to take with me at work, when i'm leaving tomorrow.
And yes, i was hoping to get some help from people that have turbo experience on these bikes. But i have a lot of other things to do, so it's a slow moving project at the time. I've put the turbo back together (with fresh oil in it) and cleaned up the carburettor (mikuni VM 38), and was going to ask some questions about it...
I'm holding a little back on opening the engine, because of the bore. It was bored out to 1200 ccm witch he told me was the absolute maximum that could be done. So i'm a little worried about the head gasket and how to get a new one. I guess it's a copper gasket. I had the bike running before i took off the turbo, and i didn't hear any sound that should not be there. And now i've got some equipment to tune the engine better, so i was thinking about firing it back up for a compression check. Maybe take it for a spin and then see what to do.





Maybe it just blows up in my face

[fastbyme]

comprssion test wont tell u what comp ratio it is , u need to either put no1 piston at tdc ..and carfully fill the cylinder to the spark plug with light oil , this needs to be mesured .to accertain the comp ratio ...or u take the head off , if copper head gasket can be reused , and cc the parts one at a time ..., if u want reliability i would just strip check reassemble the motor for peace of mind ....and then welcome to the dark side