anuvva bleedin' J
Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 9:26 pm
Thank you Stu Puddin, Paul Doran, London Calling, JB, Big Phil Moore, Taffus, Steve Wilson and many more for free parts, help and advice.
This bike was previously 'The Black Knight'.
Very cheesey but its where it started for me thankfully nitromors came to the rescue
.
In the last ten years it has been the platform for; a touring bike, a weekend drag bike, sprinter and now track bike.
Not good at any of them, me or the bike but its been all that was asked and more and i have tried (and others too) to break it and it has refused to yield.
Even under extreme provocation.
This is a new chapter for me and just like trials and motocross i have found that track riding is not going to provide me with an income but i am addicted.
Summary follows because i have spent every spare second of the last six months re-working it and this is what has turned up.
The rear light unit is just a lens screwed to the back plate. Back plate is a replica of the original in alloy but without the indicator holes. It weighs about a quarter as much as the steel item.
I have changed the wheels, discs, calipers, spindle, springs and put valves into the forks. Discs are made to a pattern and the calipers are from Steve in Ireland. Not the greatest setup but the pads are a new type of Brembo race only compound and the previous discs in the J wheel would easily lock up if required so no problems stopping and hopefully now no more diving at the front end.
http://www.z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/vie ... 50&start=0
Front tyre is now a 110 so had to get a wider front guard and retrospectively paint to match the bodywork.
Six months sitting at work but its done thanks Scotty.
Dumped the speedo and therefore the speedo drive and replaced with a solid spacer.
Bearings and spindle and internal spacers all machined Thanks Tony P.
Ground clearance has been a real issue so have lifted the side stand. Raised the rear end but retained the Koni Dial-a-rides, by welding new 'bosses' to the swingarm, in front of the original ones which give another 15 - 20 mm lift.
Had to make yet another chainguard because every time i change something the old one does not fit. I had to move the chainguard mounts as well because of the new wider rear wheel and hub/sprocket/cushdrive arrangement together with a 5/8 off set front sprocket since the rear tyre is now 150.
It actually measures up at 160 though.
The rear wheel is still 18 inch but the tyre profile is 65 which is overall 1/2 inch smaller in diameter than the old J wheel with a 130 /90.
This week i have removed the extra inch of foam it had had previously for other purposes.
It made the seat very soft and difficult to get 'out of' and 'back into'
Just replaced the bars for lower ones.
I played with clip-ons but they are not for me.
I have removed the speedo, fuel gauge, and odo leaving just the tacho. No real need for anything else.
Left hand switchgear has gone and this weekend so will the ignition switch / steering lock because it worries me that it might activate when going along in a hurry!!
Right hand switch gear will go soon too. When i have worked out how to hot-wire the ignition it will get a remote press starter.
Unfortunately last week i bashed the top of the tank with the RHS switch and put a dent and deep gouge in it.
Basta8d. That made me go drilling and tapping after a certain Bear on here and i managed to get a controllable lockstop and have it adjustable.
Tank looks like shit now Basta*d again.
I have also ditched the front splitter and elected to go for two full length front hoses.
One less compression fitting and half a pound saved.
Made a retainer from the handle of and old stainless kitchen spatula.
Made a sort of tail tidy.
i did have the Dyna 2000 in there but it got wet so now moved to on top of the battery.
Ventilated the starter cover because it gets too hot when sitting between track sessions. Has been very embarrassing at times as well.
Cut and re-welded for the fourth time the link pipe.
The comment from the instructor i got to follow me round was that the exhaust and the side stand were 1/4 inch from the deck so i had to do something apart from lifting the back end.
Couldn't go any higher because the brake arm is in the way.
Mad a new hanger bracket and shortly it will get an even noisier baffle as there are two meets this year with 105dB limits
Have also put folding footrests on because the 'round' fixed pegs were too small to be comfortable and dodgy in corners. Fragile too i guess as they were alloy tube but luckily i never found that out.
Heres' a close up of the forward mounts for the lower end of the rear shocks. It brings the rear shocks to the same mirrored angle of lean as the front forks so looks a little less 'laid down'.
Managed to get the rear disc skimmed thanks Bill (pegasus engineering) and will get it drilled to match more the front set i now have.
i will also get it reduced in diameter and make a better caliper carrier bracket than the standard one and probably replace the standard caliper whilst i'm there.
The blocks at the rear of the swingarm are now welded in so no need of the bolts that secure them.
This was partly done because the gap in the rear forks was a baggy fit for the rear wheel spindle and is now tight as a nuns' nasty.
The alloy bits will get powder coated black as although i have replaced many things i really wanted to keep the original appearance of the bike even down to the stupid passenger grab rail. Dumb really but its either all or nothing and i was not ~ am not ready or capable to make a bike like Rob zed 1015's racer.
This bike was previously 'The Black Knight'.
Very cheesey but its where it started for me thankfully nitromors came to the rescue
.
In the last ten years it has been the platform for; a touring bike, a weekend drag bike, sprinter and now track bike.
Not good at any of them, me or the bike but its been all that was asked and more and i have tried (and others too) to break it and it has refused to yield.
Even under extreme provocation.
This is a new chapter for me and just like trials and motocross i have found that track riding is not going to provide me with an income but i am addicted.
Summary follows because i have spent every spare second of the last six months re-working it and this is what has turned up.
The rear light unit is just a lens screwed to the back plate. Back plate is a replica of the original in alloy but without the indicator holes. It weighs about a quarter as much as the steel item.
I have changed the wheels, discs, calipers, spindle, springs and put valves into the forks. Discs are made to a pattern and the calipers are from Steve in Ireland. Not the greatest setup but the pads are a new type of Brembo race only compound and the previous discs in the J wheel would easily lock up if required so no problems stopping and hopefully now no more diving at the front end.
http://www.z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/vie ... 50&start=0
Front tyre is now a 110 so had to get a wider front guard and retrospectively paint to match the bodywork.
Six months sitting at work but its done thanks Scotty.
Dumped the speedo and therefore the speedo drive and replaced with a solid spacer.
Bearings and spindle and internal spacers all machined Thanks Tony P.
Ground clearance has been a real issue so have lifted the side stand. Raised the rear end but retained the Koni Dial-a-rides, by welding new 'bosses' to the swingarm, in front of the original ones which give another 15 - 20 mm lift.
Had to make yet another chainguard because every time i change something the old one does not fit. I had to move the chainguard mounts as well because of the new wider rear wheel and hub/sprocket/cushdrive arrangement together with a 5/8 off set front sprocket since the rear tyre is now 150.
It actually measures up at 160 though.
The rear wheel is still 18 inch but the tyre profile is 65 which is overall 1/2 inch smaller in diameter than the old J wheel with a 130 /90.
This week i have removed the extra inch of foam it had had previously for other purposes.
It made the seat very soft and difficult to get 'out of' and 'back into'
Just replaced the bars for lower ones.
I played with clip-ons but they are not for me.
I have removed the speedo, fuel gauge, and odo leaving just the tacho. No real need for anything else.
Left hand switchgear has gone and this weekend so will the ignition switch / steering lock because it worries me that it might activate when going along in a hurry!!
Right hand switch gear will go soon too. When i have worked out how to hot-wire the ignition it will get a remote press starter.
Unfortunately last week i bashed the top of the tank with the RHS switch and put a dent and deep gouge in it.
Basta8d. That made me go drilling and tapping after a certain Bear on here and i managed to get a controllable lockstop and have it adjustable.
Tank looks like shit now Basta*d again.
I have also ditched the front splitter and elected to go for two full length front hoses.
One less compression fitting and half a pound saved.
Made a retainer from the handle of and old stainless kitchen spatula.
Made a sort of tail tidy.
i did have the Dyna 2000 in there but it got wet so now moved to on top of the battery.
Ventilated the starter cover because it gets too hot when sitting between track sessions. Has been very embarrassing at times as well.
Cut and re-welded for the fourth time the link pipe.
The comment from the instructor i got to follow me round was that the exhaust and the side stand were 1/4 inch from the deck so i had to do something apart from lifting the back end.
Couldn't go any higher because the brake arm is in the way.
Mad a new hanger bracket and shortly it will get an even noisier baffle as there are two meets this year with 105dB limits
Have also put folding footrests on because the 'round' fixed pegs were too small to be comfortable and dodgy in corners. Fragile too i guess as they were alloy tube but luckily i never found that out.
Heres' a close up of the forward mounts for the lower end of the rear shocks. It brings the rear shocks to the same mirrored angle of lean as the front forks so looks a little less 'laid down'.
Managed to get the rear disc skimmed thanks Bill (pegasus engineering) and will get it drilled to match more the front set i now have.
i will also get it reduced in diameter and make a better caliper carrier bracket than the standard one and probably replace the standard caliper whilst i'm there.
The blocks at the rear of the swingarm are now welded in so no need of the bolts that secure them.
This was partly done because the gap in the rear forks was a baggy fit for the rear wheel spindle and is now tight as a nuns' nasty.
The alloy bits will get powder coated black as although i have replaced many things i really wanted to keep the original appearance of the bike even down to the stupid passenger grab rail. Dumb really but its either all or nothing and i was not ~ am not ready or capable to make a bike like Rob zed 1015's racer.
