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Z1000J Build
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
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- 100Club
- Posts: 227
- Joined: 17th Oct 2015
- Location: Paris, France
zorded wrote:Used to be in tech corner but here is a copy of several pages that may be of interest.
http://s254.photobucket.com/user/zorded ... t=3&page=1
This isnt the sprocket mentioned above but because it routinely see full throttle in top i decided to weld what would be the 'tabs' of the modification kit, directly to the sprocket itself. Ive done the same to the ZZR sprocket. This one's an 18 T from Talon / Debbens. The bit not shown is the cupped, splined, 'bolt head lock washer'.
Messy but effective!
AL
So I got an 18T Talon from Debben's and the lock washer kit but the talon sprocket has a much smaller recess than shown on yours and there is no way it will fit in.. Ray Debben reckoned to just use the original washer and lots of locktite and it will be ok.. Personally would have prefered the proper solution. So either try as suggested by Ray and keep a close eye or go for a different sprocket.
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- 100Club
- Posts: 227
- Joined: 17th Oct 2015
- Location: Paris, France
Checking wheel alignment again yesterday and seems the rear is out, I may have made a silly assumption thinking that if I used the zephyr 11 spacers etc in the ZRX swingarm that it would run inline, looks like I'm almost 5mm offset to the left. I remember some discussion on ZRX swingarms being offset, which could explain things? Anyway no big deal will get some straight edges to try and get a better measurement as strings always seem to be a bit open to interpretation. Then have new spacers made to suit.
Those retro fit sprocket retainers rely on there being holes in the sprocket like the flatish standard ones. You will not have any holes in the Talon one or the ZZR one i mentioned. Drilling / welding or loctite are youre three choices.
WRT alignment; do you have the horseshoe shaped spacer in the front LHS engine mount? To get the wheels in line, oddly, the place to start is with the exhaust downpipes! Make certain that they are not hitting the frame down tubes, tie a loop in a string and put it round the top headstock and drape it down the top frame tube to the rear most frame bracket and hang it down with a weight attached. Find centre of rear wheel and make sure front wheel aligns with rear wheel. Space engine across as necessary to get sprockets in line.
In my case the front sprocket had fallen off in the past and destroyed the swingarm cross tube and the welded frame tube below it. Swingarm repaired and then replaced but the damage to the frame is still there. I think its twisted at the rear engine mounts but in any event the standard setup of engine spacers was not correct. I used a couple of extra in the front and one washer in the rear mount to correct it. Next was to replace the front isolastic mounts with solid alloy ones made to these sizes. I have also corrected another J recently that had that issue and the engine wasn't sitting horizontally across the frame either!!! Lower on the LHS if i remember.
AL
WRT alignment; do you have the horseshoe shaped spacer in the front LHS engine mount? To get the wheels in line, oddly, the place to start is with the exhaust downpipes! Make certain that they are not hitting the frame down tubes, tie a loop in a string and put it round the top headstock and drape it down the top frame tube to the rear most frame bracket and hang it down with a weight attached. Find centre of rear wheel and make sure front wheel aligns with rear wheel. Space engine across as necessary to get sprockets in line.
In my case the front sprocket had fallen off in the past and destroyed the swingarm cross tube and the welded frame tube below it. Swingarm repaired and then replaced but the damage to the frame is still there. I think its twisted at the rear engine mounts but in any event the standard setup of engine spacers was not correct. I used a couple of extra in the front and one washer in the rear mount to correct it. Next was to replace the front isolastic mounts with solid alloy ones made to these sizes. I have also corrected another J recently that had that issue and the engine wasn't sitting horizontally across the frame either!!! Lower on the LHS if i remember.
AL
1981 J1
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- 100Club
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- Location: Ipswich
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- Custard Cream
- Posts: 601
- Joined: 11th Sep 2012
- Location: Reading
LeeJackson wrote:Well my first Tomforde purchase arrived today and I've got to say the quality is super impressive, I will definatly be buying more!
Got an Oberon clutch slave as well and fits like a glove.. Also seems to be good quality stuff! Some more things to get fitted at the weekend.
What holds the slave cylinder in place, I can't see anywhere for the fixing bolts or any form of circlip?
Cheers,
Mark.
Mark.
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- 100Club
- Posts: 227
- Joined: 17th Oct 2015
- Location: Paris, France
What holds the slave cylinder in place, I can't see anywhere for the fixing bolts or any form of circlip?
Mark, there are two holes there that align with the slave cylinder, they are designed to take a ZXR Slave. Everything fits nicely, will just need to shorten the push rod as the slave is much closer to the engine than the original mechanical one was.
Cheers
Lee
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- 100Club
- Posts: 227
- Joined: 17th Oct 2015
- Location: Paris, France
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- 100Club
- Posts: 227
- Joined: 17th Oct 2015
- Location: Paris, France
Hi Al, the issue with the sprocket is the actual recess is too small on this one to even accept the anti rotation washers into it at all. I think I'll have to try and use the locktite method to begin with and check it every five mins in fear of loosing my foot! There is not much protection from the tomforde cover
I don't have the U shaped bolt, was thinking I'd get away with washers, but not got to engine space out yet. I have the front aligned just never checked the back until yesterday, so now need to do some shifting around. The Zephyr sprocket carrier is really far offset from the rear wheel, seems like way too much clearance for the wheel. I'll get some photos with straight edges etc this weekend to show and see what you guys think.
Cheers
Lee

I don't have the U shaped bolt, was thinking I'd get away with washers, but not got to engine space out yet. I have the front aligned just never checked the back until yesterday, so now need to do some shifting around. The Zephyr sprocket carrier is really far offset from the rear wheel, seems like way too much clearance for the wheel. I'll get some photos with straight edges etc this weekend to show and see what you guys think.
Cheers
Lee
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- 100Club
- Posts: 227
- Joined: 17th Oct 2015
- Location: Paris, France
Hi Guys, been traveling a fair bit with work so not much has happened, I got my clutch setup on, which I'm very happy with. Tomforde stuff is just amazing quality..
Managed to spend some time on my discs as well, I was fairly sure they were not running true, so I set up a dial gauge and sure enough they are all over the place.. Took them off again, cleaned up everything, I checked the wheel hub and its tru, so no hassle there. I then took the disc off the carrier and tried just installing the carrier on the hub. I measured around .5mm runoff, so no use.. Checking the measurements from the carrier again from where it sits on the hub;
To where the disc mounts;
I confirmed that there does appear to be close to a 0.5mm difference. The other disc also not running tru but not as bad..
So I guess I need someone who can tru them up, any ideas? Really been a load of hassle these discs wish I had never bothered with them, not convinced with the quality either but let's see..[/img]

Managed to spend some time on my discs as well, I was fairly sure they were not running true, so I set up a dial gauge and sure enough they are all over the place.. Took them off again, cleaned up everything, I checked the wheel hub and its tru, so no hassle there. I then took the disc off the carrier and tried just installing the carrier on the hub. I measured around .5mm runoff, so no use.. Checking the measurements from the carrier again from where it sits on the hub;

To where the disc mounts;

I confirmed that there does appear to be close to a 0.5mm difference. The other disc also not running tru but not as bad..
So I guess I need someone who can tru them up, any ideas? Really been a load of hassle these discs wish I had never bothered with them, not convinced with the quality either but let's see..[/img]
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- 100Club
- Posts: 227
- Joined: 17th Oct 2015
- Location: Paris, France
Robw wrote:I have a set of those discs, in the cupboard, going with the standard zr1200 ones at the moment. I may put them on my next project
Rob
I love the look of them I must admit, I think I was just unlucky with KipKawa since he was not doing so well, got discs that are not true and never got my yokes that I ordered and paid for. Bit annoying but never mind.. Can't moan too much given the circumstances.
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- 100Club
- Posts: 227
- Joined: 17th Oct 2015
- Location: Paris, France
zorded wrote:Humour me Lee, as i'm not a machinist, but would it not be possible to bolt / clamp the carrier to a face plate in a lathe and turn it back by half a mil on the annulus that the disc bolts to???
AL
Al, me either but I was thinking to machine the other side that faces to the wheel. Not sure but seems it would be easier. Need to speak to a machinist I guess to see for sure.
Cheers
Lee
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