A real credit to you - and a shame if you are not able to keep her.
... but I think you rather enjoy the project side of things don't you
Hope you get to do a bit of test riding anyhow
From Mark
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Daves 73 Z1 Project
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
Superb job Dave
A real credit to you - and a shame if you are not able to keep her.
... but I think you rather enjoy the project side of things don't you
Hope you get to do a bit of test riding anyhow
From Mark
A real credit to you - and a shame if you are not able to keep her.
... but I think you rather enjoy the project side of things don't you
Hope you get to do a bit of test riding anyhow
From Mark
Z1-R D1, Z650 B2, Z1-B & ZRX 1200 A1P Catch 'em if you can at www.Zedrider.co.uk
Daves 73 Z1 Project
Absolutely perfect.
The Youtube clip was the icing on the cake to your restoration thread.
Excellent, and another bar raised yet again in the restoration of Z1's
HARRY
The Youtube clip was the icing on the cake to your restoration thread.
Excellent, and another bar raised yet again in the restoration of Z1's
HARRY
Just like to say thanks for all your comments guys also a big thanks for all the help I've had along the way from this forum
and the club in general and in particular Mikey who I know has had a bit of a rough ride with his chroming business
but still managed to pull out all the stops to help me out
I hope you agree that the end result is worth all the effort.
Cheers, Dave.
and the club in general and in particular Mikey who I know has had a bit of a rough ride with his chroming business
but still managed to pull out all the stops to help me out
I hope you agree that the end result is worth all the effort.
Cheers, Dave.
Clocks
Mike (DogsboloxofaZ1B) has asked me to post some photos of the tools and jigs I made to help restore the clocks so just for you Mike:
A right angled flat blade screwdriver is the weapon of choice to lift and open up the crimped ring. Think I got this from RS
Heres the clamping jig I made out of an appropriately sized nut with a recess turned into the top edge the exact diameter
of the outside of the crimp ring and exactly the right depth for the crimped hieght.
The clock drops in the jig and the crimped ring fits snugly in the recess.
Then with the jig anchored in the vice use the screwdriver and very gently lift the crimped edge a little at a time and work
around slowly starting at one of the recess points until the ring is opened up enough to separate the two halves of the clock.
A right angled flat blade screwdriver is the weapon of choice to lift and open up the crimped ring. Think I got this from RS
Heres the clamping jig I made out of an appropriately sized nut with a recess turned into the top edge the exact diameter
of the outside of the crimp ring and exactly the right depth for the crimped hieght.
The clock drops in the jig and the crimped ring fits snugly in the recess.
Then with the jig anchored in the vice use the screwdriver and very gently lift the crimped edge a little at a time and work
around slowly starting at one of the recess points until the ring is opened up enough to separate the two halves of the clock.
Clocks
Next the ring which can now be carefully removed from the clocks has to be prepared and straightened out as much
as possible for re-assembly. This big lump of stainless steel has the right O.D. for the inside of the ring and the jig
recess is the right size for the outside of the ring so by placing the ring on the former and the jig on top of the ring
tapping it down and around the outside straightens the sides of the ring and helps remove any mark and kinks from
the removal process.
as possible for re-assembly. This big lump of stainless steel has the right O.D. for the inside of the ring and the jig
recess is the right size for the outside of the ring so by placing the ring on the former and the jig on top of the ring
tapping it down and around the outside straightens the sides of the ring and helps remove any mark and kinks from
the removal process.
Clocks
Next give the "straightened out" rings a bit of a polish.
These next photos show the little tool I made for popping off the pointers. This came about by taking some bad advise and
using a srewdriver each side of the pointer and "just lever it off" resulting in bending and eventually snapping off the pointer shaft.
The technique I use here if the pointer is a bit stubborn is to apply presrure to the lever then gently tap it as well
with something not too heavy. Difficult to photograph not enough hands but I hope you get the idea.
These next photos show the little tool I made for popping off the pointers. This came about by taking some bad advise and
using a srewdriver each side of the pointer and "just lever it off" resulting in bending and eventually snapping off the pointer shaft.
The technique I use here if the pointer is a bit stubborn is to apply presrure to the lever then gently tap it as well
with something not too heavy. Difficult to photograph not enough hands but I hope you get the idea.
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paul doran
- Area Rep.
- Posts: 15910
- Joined: 24th Sep 2004
- Location: near Dublin Ireland
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wilsonsjw11
- Hardcore
- Posts: 1317
- Joined: 18th Jul 2008
- Location: West Sussex/Central London
Dave, top post and picture clarity is great 
Did you replenish the damping fluid in these gauges?
Regards
Steve
Did you replenish the damping fluid in these gauges?
Regards
Steve
Last edited by wilsonsjw11 on Wed Aug 21, 2013 5:54 am, edited 2 times in total.
Clocks
After you have done all of the cosmetic tidy up of the various bits and pieces, ie. new clock faces re-finish the clock
tops and re-zinc plate the bottoms replace cracked or dirty glass, etc, etc. with the rubber seals in place make sure the glass is
clean on the inside face and put the two parts of the clock tops together and fit the ring in place over the centre seal.
[[URL=http://s1093.photobucket.com/user/DaveZ1A/media/Z1OC/ringonshell_zpsc7251d8a.jpg.html]
/URL]
With the clock top and ring dropped into the jig, fit the bottom of the clock onto the top with the flange sitting in
the right place inside the open crimp ring.
Now by clamping all these components together in the jig the rubber seals around the glass and the centre are compressed
ready for the ring to be crimped back up. Note the soft pads under the clamping screws to avoid marking the newly plated bottom.
Back into the vice and using a soft alluminium dolly/punch gently fold over and flatten down the crimp ring into place.
Again slowly and gradually is the key here.
And finally the rebuilt clocks back together!
These are not my Z1 clocks by the way for the more eagle eyed of you but a set of Z1B clocks I am restoring for another member.
tops and re-zinc plate the bottoms replace cracked or dirty glass, etc, etc. with the rubber seals in place make sure the glass is
clean on the inside face and put the two parts of the clock tops together and fit the ring in place over the centre seal.
[[URL=http://s1093.photobucket.com/user/DaveZ1A/media/Z1OC/ringonshell_zpsc7251d8a.jpg.html]/URL]
With the clock top and ring dropped into the jig, fit the bottom of the clock onto the top with the flange sitting in
the right place inside the open crimp ring.
Now by clamping all these components together in the jig the rubber seals around the glass and the centre are compressed
ready for the ring to be crimped back up. Note the soft pads under the clamping screws to avoid marking the newly plated bottom.
Back into the vice and using a soft alluminium dolly/punch gently fold over and flatten down the crimp ring into place.
Again slowly and gradually is the key here.
And finally the rebuilt clocks back together!
These are not my Z1 clocks by the way for the more eagle eyed of you but a set of Z1B clocks I am restoring for another member.
wilsonsjw11 wrote:Dave, top post and picture clarity is great
Did you replenish the damping fluid in these gauges?
Regards
Steve
Hi Steve, these clocks came to me for a cosmetic tidy up and the owner was happy that the clocks were working fine
with no damping issues, even the faces were in such good condition they did'nt require replacing.
I am not currently able to replenish damping fluid but I do have a few old scrap clocks that I can pull apart and have look at.
I intend on doing some research into finding out what tools and information on what damping fluid to use etc. so that I can
carry out this "mystery vieled" operation myself in future.
Or at least find out if it is best left to the pros
If there are any in-the-know members who would like to share any of their knowledge it would be gratefully received.
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