New Project 2011/2012 /2013/2014!!

[z1000puddin]

haha i thought so......

im running a stock CRB1000 RR undertail in my GPZeleven, but im thinking the opposite ill need to open it up.

Kiwi - That will waken the neighbours

[z1000puddin]

This build is now getting to me- One problem resolved & another takes its place.

I had a small "pluff" coming from # 2 exhaust clamp on the head - Went to tighten it & I have stripped the thread --- Bugger Bugger.

Looking at the stud (M6) I think it will be a right pain in the arse to change out.

I was wondering if I thread it down to M5 ??

Stu

[RALPHARAMA]

If it's M6 you'd do better open the whole lot ip to M8 as they did on the later Zeds. I have a vague memory of replacing all my studs with the engine in the frame.

[Pigford]

If it's M6 you'd do better open the whole lot ip to M8 as they did on the later Zeds. I have a vague memory of replacing all my studs with the engine in the frame.

Stu is talking about the STUD thread Ralphy

Stu - you're right about the risk involved in removing the stud I don't see any reason you can't use a die to end up with an M5 - apart from ORIGINALITY

[RALPHARAMA]

If it's M6 you'd do better open the whole lot ip to M8 as they did on the later Zeds. I have a vague memory of replacing all my studs with the engine in the frame.

Stu is talking about the STUD thread Ralphy

Stu - you're right about the risk involved in removing the stud I don't see any reason you can't use a die to end up with an M5 - apart from ORIGINALITY

You have a die stock that will cut a thread on a stud in situ, whilst keeping it straight? If the thread stripped at M6, what makes you think a thread so much smaller will be somehow stronger? The only real solution is to remove the stud and do the job properly. It's not that hard

[z1000puddin]

I know removing the stud & fitting a new one is the "right" thing to do, I was looking for an "easy fix"

As I am not too worried about "Originality" on this bike

I reckon I WILL TAKE THE EXHAUST OFF AGAIN - I am getting used to this now

Vduk - you are correct - Better to do it right - I just hope I can get it out without having to take the head off

[RALPHARAMA]

Even if it's a pig to get out, it can still be done in situ. I have drilled studs out on Zeds in the frame. Snot easy, but it can be done. Best get one of those stud extractors with the caged rollers. I've found them great. If the fecker does shear off, just get some one to sight you in when you drill it out. Before getting started with the stud extractor, warm the engine up so that the aluminium head with expand more then the ms stud so make it keener to come out.

[z1000puddin]

Even if it's a pig to get out, it can still be done in situ. I have drilled studs out on Zeds in the frame. Snot easy, but it can be done. Best get one of those stud extractors with the caged rollers. I've found them great. If the fecker does shear off, just get some one to sight you in when you drill it out. Before getting started with the stud extractor, warm the engine up so that the aluminium head with expand more then the ms stud so make it keener to come out.

I was looking at these - Never used one before, so not sure how good they are ?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stud-Extracto ... 830&_uhb=1

Stu

[Gus]

If you've got access to a welder fit a nut to the damaged thread and weld it on then use a socket/spanner etc. to remove it.

Gus

[z1000puddin]

Went to halfords today - picked up a stud extractor set -£22

Whipped off the exaust.
Tried this 22 quid piece of "CRAP" I would not recommend these-

The extractor did bite then slipped & the offending stud would not move.

I tried the double nut and ... snap The stud sheared off flush with the head

So break out the drill, centre punched the now flush stud (or what was remaining) and managed to drill quite straight into the stud.

I then broke out the internal "easy outs" - now there is a F&***g LAUGH !!
IT BROKE AFTER EVEN A SMALL AMOUNT OF PRESSURE AND THEY WERE NOT A SHITE MAKE - SNAP-ON

After 5 minutes lying down looking up to the heavens for some sort of divine intervention / help - none came.

I decided to break out the tungsten carbide cone point burrs.

After about 20 minutes carefully grinding out the broken easy out, I eventually managed to get rid of the offending hardened steel easy out.

I then centre punched & drilled out to a M8 tapping size, tapped out using a taper then a plug tap.

Success

I fitted in the NON ORIGINAL 8mm stud & re-fitted the exhaust.
3 AND HALF BLOODY HOURS LATER. The bike is back up & running.

I wonder what next

[RALPHARAMA]

Those 'easyout' things are a waste of time on small studs. You can get lucky with the bigger ones. Experience has taught me that to very carefully drill the stud out and re- tap / Helicoil is a far safer bet. You're lucky to get the bastard out!!! 9 times outta ten you'll be removing the head and getting the spark erosion boys on the job Glad you got a good result in the end lovely build

[Ginger Bear]

I'd call that a "result" Stu.

[Z1parR]

Great work Stu , all tackled in a 'Ralph like' way

With loads of swearing i should imagine

[Jay1969]

[/quote]

Awesome project! I love the seat on your black z1000, did you make it, or are they available to buy?

Cheers

[z1000puddin]

Jay,
The seat I got from one of the members on Z1OC "MONK" - I cant remember the make of the seat, but I believe it was made in the UK


Stu