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Z800 Cafe Chopper Fighter thing...

Work in Progress

Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus

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Royalratch
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#31 PostAuthor: Royalratch » Tue Dec 06, 2011 5:21 pm

Balls.

Just a small bore on the right side case is all?

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#32 PostAuthor: Crofty » Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:30 pm

Noooo, inside the lower crankcase half there is a boss with two holes tapped to accept bolts for the kickstart stop, plus a hole in the inner to support everything inside.

If you want a kicker, do what I did and stick the GPZ top end on a good 650 bottom end (or early 750)

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#33 PostAuthor: Baldylocks » Tue Dec 06, 2011 10:57 pm

Yep waht Crofty said..here's the GPz Kicker location, only option without machining is to use a set of z750e cases..

[img][img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7146/6468433399_0185ba594d.jpg[/img]
Image014 by Baldylocks2012, on Flickr[/img]
Bugger ! whose Idea was that!

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Royalratch
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#34 PostAuthor: Royalratch » Tue Dec 06, 2011 11:18 pm

If it's just the cases, why not just get a spare case?

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#35 PostAuthor: Baldylocks » Tue Dec 06, 2011 11:46 pm

Yep, thjat's what Me and Crofty are saying. the easiest solution is to get some z750e cases as they are already machined where as the Gpz's are not, although looking at the machine work u have already had done I'm sure your machinist could do the work required quite easily? I'll shut up now!
Bugger ! whose Idea was that!



'78 Z1r '79 z650/1100 '77 Seeley H**** 750 GPz1100 B2 '86 GSXR750R Ltd '97 KTM620 '76 S3a 400

Royalratch
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#36 PostAuthor: Royalratch » Wed Dec 07, 2011 8:03 am

Aah! I thought you guys meant use a whole bottom end. Cheers.

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#37 PostAuthor: Crofty » Wed Dec 07, 2011 9:17 am

Ratch, Would be easier to use a good whole bottom end, because if you get a set of bare cases, you would possibly have to put in the 10 bearing inserts for the crankshaft, as the later 650 derivitive engines have 3 different bearing sizes to achieve the correct crank journal to bearing clearance.
But you could go either way, depends on what you have lying around

Was just looking back at your pictures Ratch, if you are running those rearsets, surely the kickstart is going to collide with them, therefore you would only need electric start, it looks like they do not fold out of the way.

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#38 PostAuthor: Royalratch » Wed Dec 07, 2011 9:54 am

Balls - you're right.

'Lectric it is.

I'm having the whole bottom end re-shelled anyway - moot point now...

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#39 PostAuthor: Ginger Bear » Wed Dec 07, 2011 4:47 pm

keep the starter Ratch, that way you can remote start it, from several feet away......... Coooooool :lan

PS Coldsummer has already commissioned me to wire up his No.7 project to do just this....... Must remember to make it 'remote stoppable' too. :roll:
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#40 PostAuthor: marve114 » Wed Dec 07, 2011 5:52 pm

Ginger Bear wrote:keep the starter Ratch, that way you can remote start it, from several feet away......... Coooooool :lan

PS Coldsummer has already commissioned me to wire up his No.7 project to do just this....... Must remember to make it 'remote stoppable' too. :roll:





cooool :brav

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#41 PostAuthor: Royalratch » Wed Dec 07, 2011 5:59 pm

I need an 'easily accesible' kill switch to pass MOT but I don't want it anywhere visible.

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#42 PostAuthor: Rich » Wed Dec 07, 2011 6:43 pm

Ginger Bear wrote:keep the starter Ratch, that way you can remote start it, from several feet away......... Coooooool :lan

PS Coldsummer has already commissioned me to wire up his No.7 project to do just this....... Must remember to make it 'remote stoppable' too. :roll:


And wire a cut out into the neutral light so you don't start it in gear and look like a right **** :D
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#43 PostAuthor: Ginger Bear » Wed Dec 07, 2011 7:49 pm

Good point there Rich....... Simon will be extremely grateful for that pointer. :up
I mean, that would be embarrassment beyond belief...... :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: and cause a lot of.... :lbb :lbb :fou
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#44 PostAuthor: Ginger Bear » Wed Dec 07, 2011 7:52 pm

Sorry Ratch..... Seems to be going off on a tangent. :oops: :smak :ont
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#45 PostAuthor: Royalratch » Wed Dec 07, 2011 8:07 pm

All useful stuff!

The wiring should deffo be so that it can't start in gear - but I won't have a neutral light - no clocks. But that doesn't mean I can't run the switch right?


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