jimmock wrote:PC on the boat has a stutter!!!
is the pc ffffffffffffffffffff
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anuvva bleedin' J
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
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mick znone
- Hardcore
- Posts: 6880
- Joined: 13th Jun 2008
- Location: Cornwall
-
mick znone
- Hardcore
- Posts: 6880
- Joined: 13th Jun 2008
- Location: Cornwall
-
mick znone
- Hardcore
- Posts: 6880
- Joined: 13th Jun 2008
- Location: Cornwall
-
mick znone
- Hardcore
- Posts: 6880
- Joined: 13th Jun 2008
- Location: Cornwall
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nick pearce
- 100Club
- Posts: 266
- Joined: 28th Feb 2009
- Location: Gloucester
Z1000J
Al, it looks stunning, love the blue paint job and the wheels. I still hav'nt found anymore pics of the Blacknight but will carry on looking. Will put up pics shortly of my J. It really is just about finished now.
N Pearce
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big green bus
- Custard Cream
- Posts: 962
- Joined: 2nd Apr 2006
- Location: durham
Its had liposuction, botox and now its had plastic surgery.
http://www.z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/vie ... y&start=15
Set to with changing the swingarm (thanks garyd) and the rear end geometry.
I had to drill and ream out the swingarm pivots in the frame to 20mm to change the spindle (thanks 750 Steve) first and then un-like below i mounted the replacement arm (zephyr 750 early type) to get dimensions for other stuff like shock width as the 750 are is much wider at the back.
You can see that the chain is resting on the top of the swingarm at the front!
This may say more.
The tube to the extreme right is the narrowest part of the arm.It gets wider very quickly.
Often people cut away the top of the arm to provide chain clearance but that wouldnt address the other things i wanted to change.
I made up some bars to get the existing location and and then re-drilled them for the new location.
I cut out the old original sleeves and filled in the holes on the outer part of the frame bracket only. This left an elliptical inner hole to fill.
Cleaned up around the holes and made some cardboard templates and then 8mm steel plates to fit the holes.
These are the plates with the new sleeves welded to them.
Luckily the 750 arm has a solid one piece bearing sleeve.
With the sleeve in the middle and all bolted up tight you just have to weld it in.
With a few measurements and a visual sanity check it got welded using the location bars on the outside.
A bit of rubbing down and a few coats of paint (difficult thing to patch; powder-coat) it all goes together.
This might give an idea of what i was trying to do.
The pivot has been increased from 16 / 17mm to 20mm diameter, the pivot has moved forward by 15mm and down by 14mm so diagonally approx 20mm change.
This gives the extra 14m of clearance when at rest.
I cut the 'ears' off the arm for the lower shock mount and re-made and tigged them back on.
When i put all the bits together i found that the shock mount positions were out (lower one side by 1mm)
Not bad for dead reckoning but in hindsight i should have put identical bars in to replace the shocks before i welded it all up. 1 degree or rotation laterally on the forward pivot probably equates to a couple or three mm at the back end of the arm.
I am going to say that the arm wasn't dead true and will 'straighten' it up as i go from here.
Had to do a bit of spacing on the rear hub because i just couldn't get the sprockets to line up.
In the end i found that i had to put some washers into the front engine mounts and get an 8mm spacer made for the rear hub.
This bike is running a 5/8 offset front sprocket.
Every time i measured it i came to a different conclusion about what needed to be done but that usually means that there is something else going on. Which there was; the engine wasnt straight in the frame!
This is an Astralite rear hub if you've not seen one before.
You can put spacers everywhere:D
This was the hub spacer i forgot to photo.
You cant space the sprocket directly unless you have a dished one so have to move the whole hub outward.
So i have ended up with this. What have i achieved?
14 / 15mm of chain clearance above the arm.
A shorter wheelbase.
Front pivot nearer to the gearbox sprocket.
Lifted the rear end by an equivalent 14 / 15mm.
It's actually nearer to 25mm because of the depth of the box section of the arm.
Reduced the lazy rake from its original 27.5 degrees to a more modern 25 /24 degrees.*
Kept the trail to 99mm.
Increased ground clearance under the alternator cover for cornering.
Increased the diameter of the pivot to a more substantial 20mm diameter.
Replaced the arm with what i hope will be a stronger one but in any event it is significantly lighter by a good amount.
Had to make yet another flippin chainguard. (number six i think):evil:
First trackday in less than a month so will see how it all works together or not.
AL
http://www.z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/vie ... y&start=15
Set to with changing the swingarm (thanks garyd) and the rear end geometry.
I had to drill and ream out the swingarm pivots in the frame to 20mm to change the spindle (thanks 750 Steve) first and then un-like below i mounted the replacement arm (zephyr 750 early type) to get dimensions for other stuff like shock width as the 750 are is much wider at the back.
You can see that the chain is resting on the top of the swingarm at the front!
This may say more.
The tube to the extreme right is the narrowest part of the arm.It gets wider very quickly.
Often people cut away the top of the arm to provide chain clearance but that wouldnt address the other things i wanted to change.
I made up some bars to get the existing location and and then re-drilled them for the new location.
I cut out the old original sleeves and filled in the holes on the outer part of the frame bracket only. This left an elliptical inner hole to fill.
Cleaned up around the holes and made some cardboard templates and then 8mm steel plates to fit the holes.
These are the plates with the new sleeves welded to them.
Luckily the 750 arm has a solid one piece bearing sleeve.
With the sleeve in the middle and all bolted up tight you just have to weld it in.
With a few measurements and a visual sanity check it got welded using the location bars on the outside.
A bit of rubbing down and a few coats of paint (difficult thing to patch; powder-coat) it all goes together.
This might give an idea of what i was trying to do.
The pivot has been increased from 16 / 17mm to 20mm diameter, the pivot has moved forward by 15mm and down by 14mm so diagonally approx 20mm change.
This gives the extra 14m of clearance when at rest.
I cut the 'ears' off the arm for the lower shock mount and re-made and tigged them back on.
When i put all the bits together i found that the shock mount positions were out (lower one side by 1mm)
Not bad for dead reckoning but in hindsight i should have put identical bars in to replace the shocks before i welded it all up. 1 degree or rotation laterally on the forward pivot probably equates to a couple or three mm at the back end of the arm.
I am going to say that the arm wasn't dead true and will 'straighten' it up as i go from here.
Had to do a bit of spacing on the rear hub because i just couldn't get the sprockets to line up.
In the end i found that i had to put some washers into the front engine mounts and get an 8mm spacer made for the rear hub.
This bike is running a 5/8 offset front sprocket.
Every time i measured it i came to a different conclusion about what needed to be done but that usually means that there is something else going on. Which there was; the engine wasnt straight in the frame!
This is an Astralite rear hub if you've not seen one before.
You can put spacers everywhere:D
This was the hub spacer i forgot to photo.
You cant space the sprocket directly unless you have a dished one so have to move the whole hub outward.
So i have ended up with this. What have i achieved?
14 / 15mm of chain clearance above the arm.
A shorter wheelbase.
Front pivot nearer to the gearbox sprocket.
Lifted the rear end by an equivalent 14 / 15mm.
It's actually nearer to 25mm because of the depth of the box section of the arm.
Reduced the lazy rake from its original 27.5 degrees to a more modern 25 /24 degrees.*
Kept the trail to 99mm.
Increased ground clearance under the alternator cover for cornering.
Increased the diameter of the pivot to a more substantial 20mm diameter.
Replaced the arm with what i hope will be a stronger one but in any event it is significantly lighter by a good amount.
Had to make yet another flippin chainguard. (number six i think):evil:
First trackday in less than a month so will see how it all works together or not.
AL
Last edited by Al on Fri Apr 03, 2015 2:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1981 J1
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