Can't beat his prices.
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Orient Express drag bike resurrection.
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
Main bearing cap has been machined for the support plate so the bottom end can be finally rebuilt.
Barrels bored to take the 72mm MTC turbo pistons, rings have been gapped and fitted to all except no-4 piston which will be used for deck height and valve clearance checking on the dry built top end.
Liner tops have been piano wired and i've 'O'ringed the outer stud holes to help reduce oil seepage from the copper head gasket.
The holes for the rear outer studs on the original cast barrels tend to taper towards the center from each end and can become restrictive for the top end oil supply when fitting the larger hd studs so these have been bored out to a constant diameter throughout their length.
A couple of zip ties on each little end stops the 3 loose rods running on their bores
Then test assemble the top end and degree in the cams
Haven't got any timing figures for these cams as there's no id on them so will have to settle on something like 109 in /113 ex lobe centers which is in the usual turbo setting range.
This will have to do for checking valve to valve clearance and squish (the valve to valve clearance will change with the cam timing so i'm going to have to check it at different LC's to see what the safe range is.
A piece of soft solder squashed beween the valve heads on overlap and measured with the vernier will tell how close things are.
Barrels bored to take the 72mm MTC turbo pistons, rings have been gapped and fitted to all except no-4 piston which will be used for deck height and valve clearance checking on the dry built top end.
Liner tops have been piano wired and i've 'O'ringed the outer stud holes to help reduce oil seepage from the copper head gasket.
The holes for the rear outer studs on the original cast barrels tend to taper towards the center from each end and can become restrictive for the top end oil supply when fitting the larger hd studs so these have been bored out to a constant diameter throughout their length.
A couple of zip ties on each little end stops the 3 loose rods running on their bores
Then test assemble the top end and degree in the cams
Haven't got any timing figures for these cams as there's no id on them so will have to settle on something like 109 in /113 ex lobe centers which is in the usual turbo setting range.
This will have to do for checking valve to valve clearance and squish (the valve to valve clearance will change with the cam timing so i'm going to have to check it at different LC's to see what the safe range is.
A piece of soft solder squashed beween the valve heads on overlap and measured with the vernier will tell how close things are.
Last edited by zed1015 on Wed Feb 20, 2013 12:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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wilsonsjw11
- Hardcore
- Posts: 1317
- Joined: 18th Jul 2008
- Location: West Sussex/Central London
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Mark Stratton
- Custard Cream
- Posts: 574
- Joined: 16th Feb 2009
- Location: Southampton
Mark Stratton wrote:Was going to have a go at dialing in the cams with slotted cam wheels. Does it make that much difference to the performance?
Your cams could be quite a few degrees out due to factory tolerances and camchain wear etc.
Degreeing them in will get the most out of them and maybe make the bike feel crisper/stronger depending on how far out they were.
head sealing
Rob,
Could I pick your brains regarding your head gasket choice,
I contacted Joe regarding a piston kit and he offered me a
one piece copper,
two piece fiber or a
one piece fiber.
I noticed you are using a two piece copper why?
Which would you recommend for a 1075 normally aspirated road/track motor?
Oh yes who do you use for the rebore and piano wiring?
Cheers
Phil
Could I pick your brains regarding your head gasket choice,
I contacted Joe regarding a piston kit and he offered me a
one piece copper,
two piece fiber or a
one piece fiber.
I noticed you are using a two piece copper why?
Which would you recommend for a 1075 normally aspirated road/track motor?
Oh yes who do you use for the rebore and piano wiring?
Cheers
Phil
Hi Phil
Unless you plan on stripping your engine regularly. Me personally i would stick to fibre. I've used both types. I suppose it depends on the application. High compression,turbo etc. Also if you use a one piece in either form. You will have to do away with the cam chain tunnel seal. And fill the space with some silicon or such like.
TB
Unless you plan on stripping your engine regularly. Me personally i would stick to fibre. I've used both types. I suppose it depends on the application. High compression,turbo etc. Also if you use a one piece in either form. You will have to do away with the cam chain tunnel seal. And fill the space with some silicon or such like.
TB
Re: head sealing
KWACKERZ1 wrote:Rob,
Could I pick your brains regarding your head gasket choice,
I contacted Joe regarding a piston kit and he offered me a
one piece copper,
two piece fiber or a
one piece fiber.
I noticed you are using a two piece copper why?
Which would you recommend for a 1075 normally aspirated road/track motor?
Oh yes who do you use for the rebore and piano wiring?
Cheers
Phil
Ah! Well spotted. I am using a ONE piece copper gasket for the final assembly.
I cleaned up an old two piece of the same thickness only to use for the clearance and timing checks etc and would not use a two piece for the finished motor.
I used Arnetts at doncaster for the rebore but they wouldn't do the groove for the wire so Steve the owner took the block to one of his racing mates who did it.
As for which type to use it all depends on whether you intend tearing the motor down regular.
Copper is better for repeated strips as they are reusable but may weep oil.
Re: head sealing
zed1015 wrote:Copper is better for repeated strips as they are reusable but may weep oil.
Not half. I won't bother with them on my current build
With all the clearances sorted out it's time to put the top end on pemanently.
Camchain 'O'ring filled with rtv, sliced flush with the cylinder top and outer oil stud 'O'rings installed ready for head gasket.
Hd cylinder studs are plain unplated steel (pre APE) so the 8 exposed ones get the heatshrink trick
Copper headgasket gets a coat of spray-on sealer both sides and goes on after fitting the Liska idlers and tensioner.
Holes in headgasket were to small to go over the heatshrink so that was trimmed flush with the barrel face too.
A not so short while later the head is on courtesy of some APE nuts and copper washers throughout.
Cams run in new bearings with Liska top idler and APE billet mounting blocks completing the ensemble.
After some research i've identified the cams as Megacycle race turbo cams and found the timing figures to suit.
110 degrees inlet and 114 exhaust which make me very happy as my 109/113 guess couldn't have been any closer
Nearly done. just waiting for the cam cover , a few nuts and bolts and an oilseal to finish it off.
Next pic's should see it finished and then on to the turbo and carb,
Camchain 'O'ring filled with rtv, sliced flush with the cylinder top and outer oil stud 'O'rings installed ready for head gasket.
Hd cylinder studs are plain unplated steel (pre APE) so the 8 exposed ones get the heatshrink trick
Copper headgasket gets a coat of spray-on sealer both sides and goes on after fitting the Liska idlers and tensioner.
Holes in headgasket were to small to go over the heatshrink so that was trimmed flush with the barrel face too.
A not so short while later the head is on courtesy of some APE nuts and copper washers throughout.
Cams run in new bearings with Liska top idler and APE billet mounting blocks completing the ensemble.
After some research i've identified the cams as Megacycle race turbo cams and found the timing figures to suit.
110 degrees inlet and 114 exhaust which make me very happy as my 109/113 guess couldn't have been any closer
Nearly done. just waiting for the cam cover , a few nuts and bolts and an oilseal to finish it off.
Next pic's should see it finished and then on to the turbo and carb,
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