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Z800 Cafe Chopper Fighter thing...
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
RR as mentioned above and looking at youre graphic it looks as though youre planning pod filters rather than an airbox in which case CV's could be problematic. They are complicated and prone to various foibles but i do agree that they should be smoother than nasty old flatslides.
These are on ebay just now as an example of 34mm 'RF' series but dont know if they would be at all suitable, almost certainly not i would say.
Nothing personally against flatslides but they clack and i believe that some early ones had ceramic slides which give up too easily.
Frequently they are for downdraught applications and have those wonky angle float bowls on them too. Yuk!!
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mikuni-RS-34mm-Fl ... 45fb792ff1
AL (CV's number one fan)
These are on ebay just now as an example of 34mm 'RF' series but dont know if they would be at all suitable, almost certainly not i would say.
Nothing personally against flatslides but they clack and i believe that some early ones had ceramic slides which give up too easily.
Frequently they are for downdraught applications and have those wonky angle float bowls on them too. Yuk!!
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mikuni-RS-34mm-Fl ... 45fb792ff1
AL (CV's number one fan)
1981 J1
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- 100Club
- Posts: 366
- Joined: 3rd Jul 2009
- Location: London
-
- 100Club
- Posts: 366
- Joined: 3rd Jul 2009
- Location: London
Not much actual progress but thought I'd post some pics of a recent parts fest that I scored on a trip to the US, so it feels like I'm making some progress.
First off, all the engine electronics bits are present so I can now make my loom from scratch.
Dyna-S Ignition.
Dyna Coils (Green).
New ElectroSport regulator and stator, more output / efficient than the old stuff and more reliable too.
Brand new original Spark advancer - chuffed.
Some ultra-pimp HT leads that but I want to terminate them in the classic NGK socket and not sure I can - plus they make be too a little short. Not cheap either.
And a really nice 750 barrel - better than what I had planned.
MotoGadget M-Unit to control it all, along with keyless ignition lock. I can't recommend MotoGadget stuff enough it's very hi-quality stuff.
The only switchgear up front is this for Horn and Hi-Beam - no clocks.
Got a nice small headlamp - good quality with damped mounts and wide grommeted opening. Will be painted black.
Custom 36T Rear Sprocket - am, going 520 on the chain.
Selection of test fit 15T and 16T countershafts sprockets. The one that was on the engine is a 17T but stock was 13T/14T?
I need to run at least a 15T and possibly a 16T to get close to normal drive with the 36T rear.
And some quick tests to check chain clearance. Someone mentioned larger sprockets fouling something - did they mean the the guard strip or the actual outer casing?
Main worry is if it will clear the swingarm pivot area. Perhaps a nylon roller plate or something?
Looks like a lot od space but with the swinger moving up and down too...?
Looks straight but how to know for sure...?
So that's where I am. Swingarm and frame back to welder tp get that sorted and some small bits and pieces CNC machined and then it's ready when the engine is. please weigh in if you spot any potential issues as I'm basically winging it!
First off, all the engine electronics bits are present so I can now make my loom from scratch.
Dyna-S Ignition.

Dyna Coils (Green).

New ElectroSport regulator and stator, more output / efficient than the old stuff and more reliable too.


Brand new original Spark advancer - chuffed.

Some ultra-pimp HT leads that but I want to terminate them in the classic NGK socket and not sure I can - plus they make be too a little short. Not cheap either.

And a really nice 750 barrel - better than what I had planned.

MotoGadget M-Unit to control it all, along with keyless ignition lock. I can't recommend MotoGadget stuff enough it's very hi-quality stuff.


The only switchgear up front is this for Horn and Hi-Beam - no clocks.

Got a nice small headlamp - good quality with damped mounts and wide grommeted opening. Will be painted black.

Custom 36T Rear Sprocket - am, going 520 on the chain.

Selection of test fit 15T and 16T countershafts sprockets. The one that was on the engine is a 17T but stock was 13T/14T?
I need to run at least a 15T and possibly a 16T to get close to normal drive with the 36T rear.

And some quick tests to check chain clearance. Someone mentioned larger sprockets fouling something - did they mean the the guard strip or the actual outer casing?

Main worry is if it will clear the swingarm pivot area. Perhaps a nylon roller plate or something?

Looks like a lot od space but with the swinger moving up and down too...?

Looks straight but how to know for sure...?

So that's where I am. Swingarm and frame back to welder tp get that sorted and some small bits and pieces CNC machined and then it's ready when the engine is. please weigh in if you spot any potential issues as I'm basically winging it!
Royalratch,
I'm going to add the M-Switch(s) to my list of purchases - I already got an M-Unit & M-lock after seeing them on this thread.
Is there a way the wires can go outside the handlebars, a small hole or notch perhaps ? the manual has lots of info about drilling holes into the bars to pass them through but I don't really want to do that to be honest.
regards
Howie
I'm going to add the M-Switch(s) to my list of purchases - I already got an M-Unit & M-lock after seeing them on this thread.
Is there a way the wires can go outside the handlebars, a small hole or notch perhaps ? the manual has lots of info about drilling holes into the bars to pass them through but I don't really want to do that to be honest.
regards
Howie
CD185, Maggot, Z1-R, Horace
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- 100Club
- Posts: 366
- Joined: 3rd Jul 2009
- Location: London
You'll probably have to drill into the M-Switch casing then as the cables are meant to be routed through the bars - the MotoGadget is mainly aimed at the stripped down minimalist chopper market.
What's wrong with threading through the bars? It's a tiny hole and does look way cleaner - a pair of spare Z bars is not going to break the bank.
What's wrong with threading through the bars? It's a tiny hole and does look way cleaner - a pair of spare Z bars is not going to break the bank.
-
- 100Club
- Posts: 366
- Joined: 3rd Jul 2009
- Location: London
-
- 100Club
- Posts: 366
- Joined: 3rd Jul 2009
- Location: London
-
- 100Club
- Posts: 366
- Joined: 3rd Jul 2009
- Location: London
Just a quick note to let you all know I'm still here.
Have been busy with work but have some quality alone time with booked in with the bike.
Story so far:
Sourced a new engine to go in - I figured I might as well go all out and have found an undamaged 83 GPZ 750 UniTrac motor (Thanks Steve / Crofty) which as I understand has better cams, bigger valves and some light porting as standard - so a better base motor to throw the 810 kit into. Hoping for 90bhp after it's all done - ?
Have a set of tweaked out Mikuni BS34 CV carbs with K&N pod filters on order with wiredgeorge in the USA who has been awesome with the help. A lot of people have said to go with flatslides etc but I'm willing to sacrifice throttle response for smoothness - I doubt there'll be much in it either way.
Final major part after that is the custom Stainless Steel exhaust - then I'll have every thing I need to build a running bike. Exhaust Craft has recently announced he can make them in Titanium on another thread - and as we ALL know, EVERY bike should have some Ti on it... lol
Custom Clip-On mounts also being machined with integral headlamp mount to keep the front uber clean.
And frame bracing and other tweaks almost done too.
What I've been doing in the meantime is making a custom loom with just the bare essentials present - no clocks, blinkers or ignition barrel. I'm planning to go with a new style Lithium-Ion battery (not a race battery) that weighs just 1.5KG with the same power as a stock battery.
But I'm really into continuing the minimalism thing and going with a race battery, kick start and ditch the starter motor which will simplify the loom even more and save the weight of the battery AND starter - which is not a lightweight item. Plus starting a bike by kick is cool.
Have to see if this GPZ motor can do the kickstart thing and also how to use keyless remote with kickstart...?
Have been busy with work but have some quality alone time with booked in with the bike.
Story so far:
Sourced a new engine to go in - I figured I might as well go all out and have found an undamaged 83 GPZ 750 UniTrac motor (Thanks Steve / Crofty) which as I understand has better cams, bigger valves and some light porting as standard - so a better base motor to throw the 810 kit into. Hoping for 90bhp after it's all done - ?

Have a set of tweaked out Mikuni BS34 CV carbs with K&N pod filters on order with wiredgeorge in the USA who has been awesome with the help. A lot of people have said to go with flatslides etc but I'm willing to sacrifice throttle response for smoothness - I doubt there'll be much in it either way.
Final major part after that is the custom Stainless Steel exhaust - then I'll have every thing I need to build a running bike. Exhaust Craft has recently announced he can make them in Titanium on another thread - and as we ALL know, EVERY bike should have some Ti on it... lol
Custom Clip-On mounts also being machined with integral headlamp mount to keep the front uber clean.

And frame bracing and other tweaks almost done too.
What I've been doing in the meantime is making a custom loom with just the bare essentials present - no clocks, blinkers or ignition barrel. I'm planning to go with a new style Lithium-Ion battery (not a race battery) that weighs just 1.5KG with the same power as a stock battery.

But I'm really into continuing the minimalism thing and going with a race battery, kick start and ditch the starter motor which will simplify the loom even more and save the weight of the battery AND starter - which is not a lightweight item. Plus starting a bike by kick is cool.
Have to see if this GPZ motor can do the kickstart thing and also how to use keyless remote with kickstart...?
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- 100Club
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- Joined: 16th Jun 2011
- Location: London ish
Royal Ratch...The GPz cases won't be machined for a Kickstart mechanism, the 750E cases were (but they didn't fit a Kicker) so unless you get the Gpz cases machined i.e. line bored you wan't be able to fit a Kicker, I know as I have a set of both Cases Gpzr1 and 750E......
cheers
cheers
Bugger ! whose Idea was that!
'78 Z1r '79 z650/1100 '77 Seeley H**** 750 GPz1100 B2 '86 GSXR750R Ltd '97 KTM620 '76 S3a 400
'78 Z1r '79 z650/1100 '77 Seeley H**** 750 GPz1100 B2 '86 GSXR750R Ltd '97 KTM620 '76 S3a 400
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