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1000j /gpz

Work in Progress

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jphaynes669
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#16 PostAuthor: jphaynes669 » Tue Mar 25, 2014 6:39 am

Al, the weight saving is impressive, so what tyre sizes are you now running?
Really fancy a set on mine, its a subtle change but the impact of the appearance is mega.
Last year I recomissioned a hesketh v1000 for a guy , he had got the bike at the auction when the factory closed down, I know that he, s got a lot of new spares, including several pairs of wheels, I might try to buy a set from him :twisted: :lol:
Jeff.H

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Al
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#17 PostAuthor: Al » Tue Mar 25, 2014 6:33 pm

The vast difference is mainly attributable to the rear wheel as the fronts are quite similar.
My rear may be a Hesketh wheel but the internal spacer has the original owners name and Z1R marked on it.
That, i take it , refers to where i got it from ( the bike) and not what (original bike) it was made for.
The rear is a 4.5 inch rim and has the bolts at the root of the spokes as per Hesketh.
It has a 150 tyre on it (65 profile i think) but size wise you could have put a 160 (ideal recommended i think ) or a 170 (pushing it depending on tyre manufacturer).
I only had room for a 150 and had to do some ''''adjustments''' to get that into a standard swingarm.!!!!

The front is a 2.5 inch rim and again with a 110 tyre you have to think through the mudguard scenario with standard forks as youre playing with just a few mm's each way.

Discs are a big issue too with standard forks because you need maximum offset to get the calipers round the disk and not hit the spokes.
That said; the front spokes are about the same width as the standard 19 inch J wheel.
After spending days and days looking up and cross referencing different manufacturers discs for different applications i ended up getting discs made from scratch.
Not as expensive as you'd think.
£540 for bespoke racing discs from ISR through HPS but even a pair of EBC prolites would be north of £450.
The problem is with this front wheel; no standard discs fit the PCD of the six bolt fitting unless they are flat in profile!!!!!

Speak to Paul Allendar at Rennstar if you need any help he's a top man and if you want any info give me a shout.

http://www.rennstar.com/

If you are buying some go for the 45 rivett type as these are the last ones made i think and be careful to look for cracking and fretting at the root of the spokes where they join the rims.
Original wheels are anodised and if they are poor condition you cant get them re-annodised sucesssfully as far as i know and painting is a nightmare with masking all those little rivetts.

All in all; 'handle with care'

AL
1981 J1

jphaynes669
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#18 PostAuthor: jphaynes669 » Tue Mar 25, 2014 9:00 pm

Very interesting Al, I was going to ask you about discs so thanks for the headsup. It still amazes me that a lot of this stuff is useable after light modification. The wheels I have my eye on are brand fire new, so hopefully I wont have to worry about condition, but I may be in touch with you regarding assembly. These wheels are of massive benefit and look fantastic
In a kwak., I will keep you posted ,, hopefully I will have a pair to work with. :wink:
Jeff.H

nick pearce
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Weight saving on Z1000J's.

#19 PostAuthor: nick pearce » Wed Mar 26, 2014 7:47 pm

An interesting point - losing some weight off Z1000J's. I weighed my original back end - approx. 60 pounds and my new back end at only 30 pounds (jmc arm ,cbr600 wheel and caliper. Up front I estimate another 10-15 pounds lost.(R1 blue spots and FZR1000 forks and wheel.) Riding it feels loads livelier and steers better. I havn't finished yet as battery , starter motor weighs a lot. PS love the Blue J mate.
N Pearce

jphaynes669
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#20 PostAuthor: jphaynes669 » Wed Mar 26, 2014 9:00 pm

Nick, that for me is food for thought, I have a cbr600w , 1996, and although I use it a fair bit, I only got for bit of a winter hack. I think if its still around next winter it might become a doner bike for something similar to what your doing.... :fou
Bottom line , if your building a bitsa you may as well go the whole hog :D
Jeff.H


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