Phil I will call into M&Ps early this week and ask if they have any kits .What year is your J ?
Steve
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Jersey J
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
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- 100Club
- Posts: 116
- Joined: 5th Jan 2013
- Location: jersey - channel islands
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- 100Club
- Posts: 116
- Joined: 5th Jan 2013
- Location: jersey - channel islands
I cleaned mine at least six times before the crap and swarf finally came out. Dont believe anyone that says you can drill out those tiny jets in the inlet mouth with a bit of grease on the drill and withdraw the swarf on the grease. The drill pushes through and leaves the grease on the inside with the swarf in it. Be prepared to do it again and with the emulsion tubes out if not already removed if fitting a kit.
There is a plus or minus 10% size difference with standard mikuni jets!
If youre unlucky you may have a 20% difference somewhere.
I did.
I ran water through the jets from a bottle with a bit of windscreen washer tube attached and jets screwed into the end.
Timing the flow between two permanent marks on the bottle.
Used gas jet files to increase the size of the smaller ones and put the two with the greater flow (mains and pilots) in the two centre carbs as should be.
All now within about 5% of each other.
Dont miss the tiny jet in the bottom of the float bowls, mine were blocked.
My air screw (fuel bypass in reality) settings are on average 3 1/4 turns out from lightly seated and all within a quarter of a turn.
Float heights are all the same as the manual.
One other thing that may help is that before i U/S cleaned them they had sealer on the exposed ball bearings that were used to seal off dead end passageways at the outside.
I replaced the sealer with a blob of araldite immediately they were dry and put a tiny tiny smear of super glue in first. Just enough to wet the surface but not enough to block the internal channels.
None of them were noticeably loose but i didnt want to take a chance on air leaks at these junctions.
You can open the hole in the float needle seat too! 1/2 mm (oops) extra gives a lot.
If you have any spares, you can convert to twin tap easily by fitting a 'T' piece between the two outer carbs on each side.
If you pre-load the diaphragm slide springs a little it stops the slides whacking up to the top of the carbs when you open the throttle in a hurry too.
As was mentioned previously an airbox or more restrictive filter arrangement, tho counter intuitive, can be beneficial but principally they respond to vacuum so cam timing is king.
Incorrect cam timing will reduce 'effective' inlet vacuum or conversely increase it disproportionately.
Bike looks great by the way.
AL
There is a plus or minus 10% size difference with standard mikuni jets!
If youre unlucky you may have a 20% difference somewhere.
I did.
I ran water through the jets from a bottle with a bit of windscreen washer tube attached and jets screwed into the end.
Timing the flow between two permanent marks on the bottle.
Used gas jet files to increase the size of the smaller ones and put the two with the greater flow (mains and pilots) in the two centre carbs as should be.
All now within about 5% of each other.
Dont miss the tiny jet in the bottom of the float bowls, mine were blocked.
My air screw (fuel bypass in reality) settings are on average 3 1/4 turns out from lightly seated and all within a quarter of a turn.
Float heights are all the same as the manual.
One other thing that may help is that before i U/S cleaned them they had sealer on the exposed ball bearings that were used to seal off dead end passageways at the outside.
I replaced the sealer with a blob of araldite immediately they were dry and put a tiny tiny smear of super glue in first. Just enough to wet the surface but not enough to block the internal channels.
None of them were noticeably loose but i didnt want to take a chance on air leaks at these junctions.
You can open the hole in the float needle seat too! 1/2 mm (oops) extra gives a lot.
If you have any spares, you can convert to twin tap easily by fitting a 'T' piece between the two outer carbs on each side.
If you pre-load the diaphragm slide springs a little it stops the slides whacking up to the top of the carbs when you open the throttle in a hurry too.
As was mentioned previously an airbox or more restrictive filter arrangement, tho counter intuitive, can be beneficial but principally they respond to vacuum so cam timing is king.
Incorrect cam timing will reduce 'effective' inlet vacuum or conversely increase it disproportionately.
Bike looks great by the way.
AL
Last edited by Al on Tue Apr 16, 2013 6:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1981 J1
- paul doran
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- Location: near Dublin Ireland
- steve bowdler
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- 100Club
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- Joined: 5th Jan 2013
- Location: jersey - channel islands
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- 100Club
- Posts: 116
- Joined: 5th Jan 2013
- Location: jersey - channel islands
No Dyna jet kit yet but safe to ride now I've got to the bottom of my spongy front brake, having fitted new pistons, seal, lines and master cylinder kit, turns out the master cylinder was F###ed. Evil bay provided a Z1100R unit so I just had my first sunday run with the boys. Brill.....![img][img]http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q769/bbrocq/001_zps030ef955.jpg[/img][/img]

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- 100Club
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- Joined: 5th Jan 2013
- Location: jersey - channel islands
Starting to reach the totally baffled stage with these F##king carbs, changed the choke bellows and fitted the stage 3 Dynajet, fast as... power band from 6500 is awsome, It 's so fast and easy to ride I've had to ban myself from riding it until after I've done the hill climb on the CBX the week after next, but the kin thing is still holding onto it's revs, futher to that, I stuck the gauges on it again tonight and to add to my confusion, tick over is only 5 - cmHg and when you blip it, all four drop to Zero....?
Your's confused and pissed off......!
Phil.
HELP!!!!!!
Your's confused and pissed off......!
Phil.
HELP!!!!!!

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