Still got some small stuff to do to it, but got a problem with the clutch. Get all the correct movement through the lever but not sure if the plates are sticking together or not as it just jumps when I put it into gear.
Cheers
Col.
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GPZ1100
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
GPZ1100
I suppose this should really be in this section as it's a bit of work in progress. As some of you will have seen I've made a couple of bits for the bike over the past while. Well here's the bike.
Still got some small stuff to do to it, but got a problem with the clutch. Get all the correct movement through the lever but not sure if the plates are sticking together or not as it just jumps when I put it into gear.
Cheers
Col.
Still got some small stuff to do to it, but got a problem with the clutch. Get all the correct movement through the lever but not sure if the plates are sticking together or not as it just jumps when I put it into gear.
Cheers
Col.
The bike looks fantastic. Love it. After all the work ive done to mine it still doesnt look anywhere near as good as yours. Well done with the mods too.
Clutch; end float on the primary (input shaft) or hub and bearing arrangement.
Is there any play (end float) in the primary shaft?
If you remove the plates from the clutch what do you get (rattle wise)?
If the double row bearing behind the clutch is worn you can adjust the clutch statically all you like but dynamically it will not dis-engage properly.
There are two thrust shims behind the hub. One either side of the clutch drum (basket) bearing. Clatter in the clutch is caused by play here. Iv'e just tightened mine up with a little tapping in the right place if you see what i mean.
Last time i put the crank case halves together i used a very thick gasket sealer thats not designed for bikes. It had the effect of holding the crankcase halves apart enough for the caged needle roller on the left hand side of the primary shaft to have some lateral movement in it. This coupled with play in the double row bearing allowed the primary shaft to move in and out with the clutch push rod!!!!!!!
Are there any notches in the slots on the clutch centre hub or the outer basket??
If so you will need to dress them with a fine file.
Similarly are the (outward facing) tabs on the friction plates peened over??
The plain plates are stamped out i believe.
If you look at them very closely you will see that they have a 'coarse' and a 'smooth' side to the centre 'fins'
If you want full, fast and complete engagement fit with the smooth side facing in. For satisfactory dis-engagement fit with the smooth side facing out. Its marginal but together with other small things does make a difference.
Are you using up-rated clutch springs?
What are the friction plates like. Are they helical pattern friction pads or radial ones? (triangular or rhombus in appearance)
What oil are you using; 20/50....? Meaning; does it tend to be more noticeable when cold?????
AL
Clutch; end float on the primary (input shaft) or hub and bearing arrangement.
Is there any play (end float) in the primary shaft?
If you remove the plates from the clutch what do you get (rattle wise)?
If the double row bearing behind the clutch is worn you can adjust the clutch statically all you like but dynamically it will not dis-engage properly.
There are two thrust shims behind the hub. One either side of the clutch drum (basket) bearing. Clatter in the clutch is caused by play here. Iv'e just tightened mine up with a little tapping in the right place if you see what i mean.
Last time i put the crank case halves together i used a very thick gasket sealer thats not designed for bikes. It had the effect of holding the crankcase halves apart enough for the caged needle roller on the left hand side of the primary shaft to have some lateral movement in it. This coupled with play in the double row bearing allowed the primary shaft to move in and out with the clutch push rod!!!!!!!
Are there any notches in the slots on the clutch centre hub or the outer basket??
If so you will need to dress them with a fine file.
Similarly are the (outward facing) tabs on the friction plates peened over??
The plain plates are stamped out i believe.
If you look at them very closely you will see that they have a 'coarse' and a 'smooth' side to the centre 'fins'
If you want full, fast and complete engagement fit with the smooth side facing in. For satisfactory dis-engagement fit with the smooth side facing out. Its marginal but together with other small things does make a difference.
Are you using up-rated clutch springs?
What are the friction plates like. Are they helical pattern friction pads or radial ones? (triangular or rhombus in appearance)
What oil are you using; 20/50....? Meaning; does it tend to be more noticeable when cold?????
AL
1981 J1
Thanks for the comments gents.
Al, you've given me plenty to check over. The last time I had the plates out I measured them all up and they were like new. I am still trying to remember if I did actually count them though. A previous owner had put 1/8" thick washers between the springs and bolts I reckoned because the springs were tired. I removed the washers and fitted a set of uprated springs. Bearing in mind the bike has been off the road for a few years and the previous owner hadn't ridden it. I do know the engine sounds sweet and there is no rattle from the clutch when running.
Cheers
Col.
Al, you've given me plenty to check over. The last time I had the plates out I measured them all up and they were like new. I am still trying to remember if I did actually count them though. A previous owner had put 1/8" thick washers between the springs and bolts I reckoned because the springs were tired. I removed the washers and fitted a set of uprated springs. Bearing in mind the bike has been off the road for a few years and the previous owner hadn't ridden it. I do know the engine sounds sweet and there is no rattle from the clutch when running.
Cheers
Col.
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