Going on from the earlier discussion about this, is it possible or sensible to take the master cylinder and splitter off the bike and lower them to below the calipers to bleed them, or will the fluid then just come out of the master cylinder? ie is the master cylinder just a pump or will it allow fluid to come back in to it if the fluid level is higher than the master cylinder, if that makes sense?
I am thinking that by doing this the air trapped will flow up to the bleed nipples instead of trying to force it down?
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Bleeding Brakes
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
I`ve never really had a problem bleeding brakes.
It is a good idea to let the lever go when you have it fully in, thereby giving a jolt to the system.
Get all the air out of the top before you try cracking the caliper bleed nipple.
You will start to get air out of both holes in the master after a while, then keep going until it is all done.
I helped BunnysZ do his after fitting new hoses and rebuilt calipers and it took three quarters of an hour............tops
It is a good idea to let the lever go when you have it fully in, thereby giving a jolt to the system.
Get all the air out of the top before you try cracking the caliper bleed nipple.
You will start to get air out of both holes in the master after a while, then keep going until it is all done.
I helped BunnysZ do his after fitting new hoses and rebuilt calipers and it took three quarters of an hour............tops
Asphalt Cowboy
Phil Churchett award winner 2015
Phil Churchett award winner 2015
Steve, I did try taking the whole braking system off the bike - complete.
I hung the calipers on the garage roof with the master cyclinder at the lowest point.... The fluid didn't run back... & I managed to bleed the brakes OK.
This was a last ditch attempt after a few evenings struggling with them tho
I hung the calipers on the garage roof with the master cyclinder at the lowest point.... The fluid didn't run back... & I managed to bleed the brakes OK.
This was a last ditch attempt after a few evenings struggling with them tho
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!
Thats what I wanted to Know Mark. I need to change the splitter any way and the pads and it seemed logical to do it that way if poss.
I hear what you are saying Chris, sometimes when I have bled them I have no problems, but last time when I had them drained down when I was trying to install a front brake switch it took evening after evening to get them done and it was a right pain!
I hear what you are saying Chris, sometimes when I have bled them I have no problems, but last time when I had them drained down when I was trying to install a front brake switch it took evening after evening to get them done and it was a right pain!
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Skunkwurcx
Or, you can get one of these things : http://www.princessauto.com/vmchk/tools ... ke+bleeder.
I haven't used it on the dual disc setup on either of my bikes yet but I did use it on the GF's Yamaha which for some reason was being a real PITA to bleed out. Worked a treat and was done in about 10 mins. Could have been done in less that 5 but I wanted to be certain I had ALL the cruddy fluid out of the line/cylinder.
Another method I have seen described but not used is injecting the fluid into the bleeder valve by using a syringe. Basically fill the syringe with fluid and place snout of syringe in bleeder screw hole, crack open bleeder and inject fluid, then close bleeder screw. Repeat as req'd. It will force the air up and out of the master cylinder. You may still have to pump up the brakes and bleed out, but the majority of the air will have gone.
I haven't used it on the dual disc setup on either of my bikes yet but I did use it on the GF's Yamaha which for some reason was being a real PITA to bleed out. Worked a treat and was done in about 10 mins. Could have been done in less that 5 but I wanted to be certain I had ALL the cruddy fluid out of the line/cylinder.
Another method I have seen described but not used is injecting the fluid into the bleeder valve by using a syringe. Basically fill the syringe with fluid and place snout of syringe in bleeder screw hole, crack open bleeder and inject fluid, then close bleeder screw. Repeat as req'd. It will force the air up and out of the master cylinder. You may still have to pump up the brakes and bleed out, but the majority of the air will have gone.
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