Z1OwnersClub GB

I bumped into a guy at the Bulldog bash a good 10 years ago who had modded a zx10 (i think) cylinder etc to fit a Z900. Anyone got any info on such a mod?

A recent accident causing permanant nerve damage means i'm gonna struggle with a cable, lost around 60% of strength in my hand you see.

i used a pmfr clutch release
zx9 master and slave let you know how it works,
when i can get it to bleed lol.

I fitted a hydrualic clutch as per the attached link to the post on the site. Much easier to use, should do the job and keep the bike looking fairly standard.

http://www.z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/vie ... ght=clutch

How the hell do you bleed these buggers !

I have a Z1B with Hydraulic clutch running Ducati controls , looks great with polished levers but does anybody know how the hell you bleed these.

Think the Hydraulic set up is easier if working properly but they are a bugger to bleed . I believe Deben did the conversion on mine originaly and the brakes running dual discs actually stop ,anybody any tips on Bleeding as mine in pieces !

Cheers

Vince

The one I used I just placed it in a vice with a small bolt acting as the push rod. This meant that it could not move so forced out all the air when operating the clutch lever. Then fitted it to the casing and bobs your uncle.

Retro

Why not fit softer springs along with a lock-up clutch (like MTC etc).
This will also give you a really light clutch actuation with 100% guarantee of no clutch slip.

Ducati slaves have a bleed screw in the banjo bolt and not on the cylinder.

Kano , you have bleed nipple at the bottom . Air rises so you will have to bleed with the nipple upwards .





fer

Big Fluff wrote:Retro

Why not fit softer springs along with a lock-up clutch (like MTC etc).
This will also give you a really light clutch actuation with 100% guarantee of no clutch slip.

I did look into that idea but it seems like it could be quite a bit more expensive than the hydraulic option.

Here is his latest sale listing for the hydraulic clutch.

250390818715


Recommended delivers quickly and very high quality.


Cheers

thx guys,
after reading your inspiring words i headed off to the garage feeling confident.
had to finish a job on the wife's windstar first but that went well and in no time it was all fixed and i was able to tackle the clutch.

i unattached the clutch line from the frame to remove any chance of a pinched hose,
unbolted the slave from its mounting and flipped it so the bleed nipple was pointing it up,
with a clam and a bushing i clamped the slave's piston all the way in.
then commenced with the bleeding i was surprised with how much air was still in the line but it all came out in no time and pressure from the piston was noticeable by watching the clamp.
bolted it back in place and pumped the clutch with my finger tucked in on the clutch push rod and we have movement.

i had already checked the clutch actuator to see just how much travel it had and I'd say between 8 - 10mm.

i have probably 4mm of travel so i possibly need to get a standard length push rod as mine was cut down for the pmfr bracket to be installed a couple of years ago.

first tip if you have a friend get him or her to help you as there is a lot going on.



my clutch resivour was small tiny in fact, so i forgot to check it a couple of times and i had to start again lol.

my clutch line is 48 inches long so it can take a while to bleed it all the way.

wasn't sure what i was supposed to feel on the pull but i can report that its about in between the brake and a cable actuated clutch in feel, and you really can feel the rod push in..

so if this helps anyone cool, on a side note with the ape clutch springs i fitted a couple of weeks ago the pull may still be to much for my old arthritic hands only time will tell.

Looks good Kano!

Just a note on 'bleeding', if no bleed nipple you can crack the banjo open & use that & often thats enuff to bleed the system

Or splash out an a combined banjo/bleed bolt