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Pigford wrote:Dress the rotor to the crank end, with grinding paste........ Get a nice snug fit....... then re torque & more loctite....... on crank end bolt & check 3 x bolts in rotor
phil churchett wrote:Hello John,
as you have found, this a friendly, helpful site.
Can i ask that you introduce yourself, with a few details, in the "New Here" section?
) once I've repaired the rotor.
Pigford wrote:Grinding paste is recommended by people in the know
Probably worried you won't clean it off properly, and it'll get into the engine
This "lapping-in" is a standard practice on close fit items
Perhaps someone else with an Engineering degree can put us out of our misery
Sorry, I didn't see this post earlier - it's quite likely that the bolt's not looseing and letting the rotor slip, it's the other way round. The rotor's breaking off the taper and snapping the key, spinning and loosening the bolt. The key really only positions it, it's too flimsy to do anything else that's why they did away with it and the bolt just secures it, it's the fit on the taper that should really hold it on. If it keeps coming off it's because the starter clutch is worn on the boss on the big sprocket at the back - it doesn't have to be really even visible - then the rollers catch and snap it off the taper. It is more of a problem with high compression because starting a high comp motor tends to wear the starter clutch more so this is more likely to happen. Try and get a new complete starter clutch it should fix it. I had the same problem about eight years ago - hasn't happened since.
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