I tried the bike last Saturday, (she was firing up the week before albeit a bit rough from standing over the winter), she turned over OK and sparked OK, but she just would not fire up, so I suspected gummed up carb jets.

I dismantled the lower end of carb and ultrasonically cleaned the pilot, main and air bleed valve, cleaner did a nice job to be fair. Replaced the jets but still no joy.

Ordered carb repair kits and replaced all pilot and main jets, plus air screw as I was on. I inspected the float needles, but were not worn so I left the original ones in.
Refitted the carbs but again no joy, same as before. I then turned over with the air box off, to see if the cylinders were actually sucking in air, I felt a bit of blow back in one cylinder so I suspected valve clearances. Opening the throttle i.e. to use the main system fuel did come spluttering out.


I have just checked the valve shim clearances and all exhausts are OK, one is just on limit at 0.002 inch. 2 inlets are OK at 0.004 inch and 2 are on 0.0015 inch. So another job to sort but at least I know they need doing!!

Would tight shim clearances be sufficient to stop the bike starting? As 2 clyinder valve sets are actually OK, I still suspect the carbs are the problem not the shims. Is it the float height, which look like a right "ball ache" to sort out? Last Jap carb float I messed about with was on a Datsun 120Y, in the end I went to a scrap yard and fitted another one.
I have faffed on with them to the point I feel the only way this bike will go is in bits on EBay!!

Is there a Z carb specialist in our area who could look at them for me???
On a day like tihs I am off on a Triumph, at least they are dead simple to fix.

