1R typical?

[Kev1R]

There are some things on the Z1r which over the years I have just got used to, but have not really been right from (or near to) day 1.
I wondered if mine was a one off or if others are the same.

When you switch on the ignition – moving the bars from side to side will cause the oil warning light to flash on and off. All other lights are fine.
The ammeter always points in the middle (I suspect it has never worked)
The Fuel gauge worked for only a very short time
The chrome ‘seat release keyhole cover’ does not spring back in place
The Fuel Tap is exceptionally stiff in operation
The mirror shrouds (plastic covers) vibrate against the mirror
I am not especially asking how to fix these things - I suspect most are easy fix’s (except the gauges) – Just wondered if anyone else had the same issues.

The following couple of points however - are items I would definitely welcome comments on, as they are things that have developed over the years:
There is now a very slight hesitation on accelleration - particularly if the throttle is opened quickly – I don’t remember this from new (and the carbs are balanced and valve clearances & points and timing are ok)

The headlight goes very slightly dim on tickover – is that a sign I may need a new stator assembly?

Last point is for tyres, after trying afew different tyre makes I discovered Metzelers. They are so good I haven’t been tempted to try anything else for the last 20 years. If I fancied a change - does anything else work on the 1R?

Thanks for any comments
Kevin

[compo z1r]

hi' most points are an easy fix. oil light sounds like bad conection on moving bars.
ammeter should be just o.f centre +
chrome seat cover requires new spring.
fuel tap new seals and good clean
mirrors worn.
other issues carbs worn will need rebuild jets worn etc.
head light poss issues
tyres keep with metz'z you dont go scratching on a z1r have used continentals.

[Magnum1]

My lights went completely once on the A6, was moving a bit and had a shock - all went black! It turned out to be the connector behind the fairing on the brake side. Happened again before I decided to take it all off and sort it out by putting tape around it.
The hesitation could be the carbs not filling up in time to keep up. Wired George www.wgcarbs.com advises that setting the float height on an old bike it a waste of time. You have to measure using an external tube from the drain hole up to the gasket mating surface on the float bowl.
In fact, I'm just off outside to do mine.
Cheers,
Rod

[Pasc]

Rod, I'm not sure I agree with Wired George regarding setting float heights on an old bike a waste of time. My Z1000 MK2 used to hesitate at about 4000rpm. Set float heights and the bike ran like a dream.

[ted1r]

GET RID OF THE AMP METER AND PUT A VOLT METER IN ITS PLACE ,MORE PRACTICAL, WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME YOU HAD A NEW BATTERY ? THESE ARE AT THE BOTTOM OF A LOT OF PROBLEMS EVEN RUNNING ISSUES,TYRES I CANT MAKE ME MIND UP .

REGARDS TED

[Rich]

You have to measure using an external tube from the drain hole up to the gasket mating surface on the float bowl.

Rod

It's called the service fuel level, it is the best way to do them, details in K workshop manual.

[Kev1R]

Thanks for all the advice – particularly on the float level - which I seem to recall having a go at some years ago. My main recollection is taking ages to get the screws off the bottom of the carbs for access, using ‘s’ shape screwdriver. The job was so fiddley and time consuming….. plus did not seem to improve anything. Maybe I didn’t do it right. Is there a proper tool for this job?
I feel inspired to have another go at this.

One other thing is I get some oil in the air box as part of the crankcase ventilation system. As far as I recall it has always done this to some extent - Is there a way of reducing / preventing this - apart from not overfilling !

Although I haven’t seen any replies on one aspect - I would be interested in any views from the sparky’s out there on the ‘state of the stator’. Mine is still the original item - Do they wear out? How can I tell if I need a replacement – is my slightly dimmer headlight on low tickover a sign of impending doom? – I have seen higher output replacements on the market - should I consider one and will I notice the difference?

Many thanks for very interesting replies so far

[Pigford]

To check float/fuel level, either the Kawasaki recommended way - adaptor on bottom of float bowl & clear tube to check level against side of carb bowl - or - remove carbs (to get float bowls off ) & measure
Dim h/light at low idle shows the charging system is putting out power
Oil in air box is not unusual, but may indicate worn rings, blow-by into crankcases. Check the oil seperator unit is clear. Its not uncommon to remove the seperator gubbins in the unit to aid breathing & reduce pressure.

[compo z1r]

Thanks for all the advice – particularly on the float level - which I seem to recall having a go at some years ago. My main recollection is taking ages to get the screws off the bottom of the carbs for access, using ‘s’ shape screwdriver. The job was so fiddley and time consuming….. plus did not seem to improve anything. Maybe I didn’t do it right. Is there a proper tool for this job?
I feel inspired to have another go at this.

One other thing is I get some oil in the air box as part of the crankcase ventilation system. As far as I recall it has always done this to some extent - Is there a way of reducing / preventing this - apart from not overfilling !

Although I haven’t seen any replies on one aspect - I would be interested in any views from the sparky’s out there on the ‘state of the stator’. Mine is still the original item - Do they wear out? How can I tell if I need a replacement – is my slightly dimmer headlight on low tickover a sign of impending doom? – I have seen higher output replacements on the market - should I consider one and will I notice the difference?

Many thanks for very interesting replies so far

if your z1r is a 78 mod and the carbs have not been touched for years then i would do a full rebuild then re-set the float hights' there 30 years old' bound to show wear.