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cam chain tensioner

Posted: Sat Jan 13, 2007 10:06 am
Author: chrispyduck
The thread in my tensioner has ceased to be; the locking bolt wont tighten up. :(

Is there a way of reconditioning or are still available new or NOS.
Also any tips on taking it off :wink: Is it easy to replace :wink:

Thanks in advance of some useful replies :D

Posted: Sat Jan 13, 2007 10:52 am
Author: chrisu
don't know about new or secondhand ones but if its only the lock bolt thread then a helicoil is probably the easiest fix.

set on 1/4 TDC and just undo the 2 mounting bolts - get helicoil fitted and as the Haynes BOL says - fitting is the reverse. Obviously do not rotate the engine while the tensioner is out.

Posted: Sat Jan 13, 2007 12:12 pm
Author: Jumbo
I had the same problem with mine. So I drilled it out and retaped it to the next size. Which I think going to M8 from M6.

I also fitted a new spring which used to be listed on Ebay as being stronger springs.

As an experiment also I drilled and taped the back of the cam adjuster and fitted a longish bolt to try and get a better adjustment on it.

Jumbo

Posted: Sat Jan 13, 2007 1:07 pm
Author: debben1
I would be very carefull about tapping the camchain tensioner body out to 8mm as the body is not very strong, its only made from thin cast alloy and a fair amount of pressure is excerted throught the tensoiner body from the camchain at high rpm, these bodys have been known to crack with the 6mm bolt and drilling out the body to use an 8mm bolt will only make these weak part more vunerable to failure, loo at how thick the body is on a manual billet tensoiner, and being billet it is much stronger than cast. Using a stronger spring will increase tensoin on the camchain, accelerating wear on the camchain tensioner wheels, and risk breaking the guide at the front of the block held in with the cross head screw. Tension on the camchain will also increase friction within the drive train and so rob horsepower. Fitting a billet manual tensoiner is the obvous answer, prolonging the life of the camchain tensoiner wheels (which are over ?300 to replace!! :shock: ), and reducing pressure on the camchain while being unable to back of or break. Steve

Posted: Sat Jan 13, 2007 1:22 pm
Author: chrispyduck
OK :roll:

I have taken the tensioner off the bike and sure enough the alloy body is cracked.

Now I have 2 routes to take :?

1. Buy a second hand one ( John Browse has the complete assemblly ?45 )
could try ebay.
2. Manual tensioner as recommended by debben 1 (are they really better and where to get one from and how much)
:?:

Posted: Sat Jan 13, 2007 1:59 pm
Author: london calling
Crispy,check out the link on Steve's (Debben 1) thread.
Debbens sell the APE manual cam chain tensioners and are money well spent. :D

Posted: Sat Jan 13, 2007 2:34 pm
Author: Iain marshall
A new tensioner body(original part) is ?30 from zed power and i think they do a repo one complete for around ?45

Posted: Sat Jan 13, 2007 2:53 pm
Author: Padders
Hi I have a secondhand tensioner you can have FOC buy me a coffee if ever we meet at a show. Better on your bike then in the shed.

Cheers Padders.

Posted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 8:09 am
Author: chrispyduck
Great :D

Thanks Padders :wink:

Check your PM :|

Is that 2 sugars or 1 :)

Posted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 12:11 pm
Author: Padders
Posted this morning Mate.

Posted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 5:22 pm
Author: Pigford
Chrispyduck, look at this on eBay 260077059699 its a nice APE tensioner for ?39.00 delivered, buy now price! :lol:

Posted: Fri Jan 19, 2007 5:55 pm
Author: london calling

Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 5:57 pm
Author: chrispyduck
Padders, it arrived Saturday :D :D