#8 PostAuthor: Al » Tue Dec 02, 2008 4:46 pm
3TA or the ubiquitous T90?
Just based on my experiences of three years ago or so; could i suggest that you do a trial bolting together of the crankcase halves before going any further. It costs nothing but a little time.
Reason is i get a tiny but very annoying weep from the CC joint just in front of the timing cover RHS occasionally.
Had i trial fitted them and tried to run a feeler gauge round that joint it might have shown up what i was about to do wrong. I know that the bike had been dropped on the LHS but was un-aware of any damage residue to the RHS. Much much later on i did discover that the advance a retard was running out quite badly and had to be replaced. Co-incidence maybe, who knows
From a purely practical perspective; i found that a Black and Decker workmate was by far and away the best 'platform' for the bottom end work to be carried out on. Dont know if you have access to one of these but its main advantage is that it has a gap in the middle between the 'jaws' which you can dangle cam chains, con rods etc through. Its a good height and unobtrusive beneath the motor whilst you work. Thoughtfully they put a little step on this one for tea and fags to sit near by.
Did you have all the bolt holes blanked with bolts of the correct sizes before it was vapour blasted?
My cases were professionally blasted, cleaned, masked ,painted and cleaned again. (cost a bl%%dy fortune) When i got them back i washed them in the bath several times and left them to soak overnight.
Took them out and ran new taps into all the holes and was pretty horrified by what came out of some.
Maybe original manufacturing debris, historical sealants, blast media, whatever but had to wash them again several times more before i was completely happy.
Looking back now, i guess it was really my responsibility since paying someone to do that job would have put the price off the Richter scale.
This ones a bit previous; dont forget to seal under the heads of the bolts in the lower CC.
The exposed (outdoor) bolt heads in the lower CC take in water and freeze. In 30 + years time someone might have cause to curse your name if you dont use Sikaflex or your contrys' equivalent.
My cases are black so used black. Dont know if they make it in silver but i suspect they or someone else does. Focus on the annulus between the bolt shaft and washer ID.
What oil you gonna use.
I would satisfy myself at this stage that buy pumping oil through the oilways that is is demonstrated to get where it is needed.
Thoughtfully the people who blasted the ali left some of the tapered rubber bungs behind in the casings. I used these to blank off sequentially where i did not want the oil to come out of. Messy job and shouldnt have done it in the bedroom really, but hey that's what a mid life crisis is all about by my reckoning.
Another one thats before its time but may forget later; if i'd had me wits about me i would have mocked up the bottom end, pistons and block. Bolted the block down onto CC with bits of cut up 15mm copper pipe etc and put a dial gauge on the piston crowns.
Had i done this i might have discovered the issue with the A&R unit but in any event it will tell you if the crank is true and indexed correctly to the TDC mark.
God forbid that its comes out not lined up but if you do have to get the crank trued now would be the time to do it.
Look forward to seeing the pictures and i hope some of the above helps. Posting pictures is more my thing so if you get stuck read your pm.
AL
