I have a 1977 Z1000 A1 and I have just had to have an operation on my hand and I now find the throttle is rather heavy can anyone help with advice of how to lighten it if this possible.
Thanks
Jet
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Heavy Throttle
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I bought a little device that goes over the end of the cable and allows the tube from an aerosol can to fit into it.
With this device you can pump brake cleaner through the cable until it runs clear thus removing any dust / dirt / moisture from said cable.
After allowing the solvent to evaporate WD40 can be pumped through.
I used this on my dirt bikes over the years and have never since had a broken or even sticky cable.
Do make sure the carb linkages are properly cleaned and adjust the cables correctly !
I now have the lightest clutch action and cannot believe what I put up with when I was younger
With this device you can pump brake cleaner through the cable until it runs clear thus removing any dust / dirt / moisture from said cable.
After allowing the solvent to evaporate WD40 can be pumped through.
I used this on my dirt bikes over the years and have never since had a broken or even sticky cable.
Do make sure the carb linkages are properly cleaned and adjust the cables correctly !
I now have the lightest clutch action and cannot believe what I put up with when I was younger

Asphalt Cowboy
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Phil Churchett award winner 2015
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You can do as Chris has suggested or alternatively use this cheaper method:
Get a polythene carrier bag and cut into a 6 inch square. Undo the throttle cables from the throttle and poke a small hole through the middle of the polythene and put one cable through the hole and then using a bit of sellotape or rubber band seal the bottom so that a funnel shape is formed where the inner and outer cables meet. Position upright and fill the funnel with a small amount of engine oil and leave for about 30 minutes.
You will be surprised how smooth the cables operate once done.
Get a polythene carrier bag and cut into a 6 inch square. Undo the throttle cables from the throttle and poke a small hole through the middle of the polythene and put one cable through the hole and then using a bit of sellotape or rubber band seal the bottom so that a funnel shape is formed where the inner and outer cables meet. Position upright and fill the funnel with a small amount of engine oil and leave for about 30 minutes.
You will be surprised how smooth the cables operate once done.
Eastlondon is right, but..................
The idea of a lubricant is that it should not be so thick / sticky that it retains dust / dirt which then takes on the consistency of valve grinding paste.
WD40 needs replacing every 3 months or 6 months depending on your usage.
It is just as important to clean out the old lubricant before replacing with new
When dirt biking I did it after every ride.
The idea of a lubricant is that it should not be so thick / sticky that it retains dust / dirt which then takes on the consistency of valve grinding paste.
WD40 needs replacing every 3 months or 6 months depending on your usage.
It is just as important to clean out the old lubricant before replacing with new

When dirt biking I did it after every ride.
Asphalt Cowboy
Phil Churchett award winner 2015
Phil Churchett award winner 2015
as above but make sure the routing of the cable is correct. Also lubricate the throttle tube that the grip sits on.
Another thing you can do is take the carbs off and then take the carb bank apart, to reduce tension on the return spring, the last set of carbs for a 1100 had 1 or 2 turns of tension already on when I took them apart ( and yes the spring tried to escape the garage!)
You could try lubricating the the butterfly spindles as any drag in there will add to the problem
Oh and well done lads, no inane comments, I 'm impressed (I resisted the urge too!)
Another thing you can do is take the carbs off and then take the carb bank apart, to reduce tension on the return spring, the last set of carbs for a 1100 had 1 or 2 turns of tension already on when I took them apart ( and yes the spring tried to escape the garage!)
You could try lubricating the the butterfly spindles as any drag in there will add to the problem
Oh and well done lads, no inane comments, I 'm impressed (I resisted the urge too!)
Not one mention of LIMP WRIST's you mean
Snigger
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Hello Jet, my handlebar grips are made for an Ariel (brit bike) and have that logo on them. The key thing is that when i bought them they had two raised longitudinal ribs on them.
I cut off the one which would have ended up across my palm and arranged the other one to be in between the second and third segment of my fingers where it locates with the folds in my gloves.
This takes a great deal of pressure off my fingers and allows the throttle grip to bind better with my gloves.
My problem was similar to yours but caused by continually ringing the buggers neck and having the throttle ease round in my gloves.
P.S. Bought them from Netley Marsh autojumble couple of years ago but have seen them many times since including Kempton Park etc.
AL
I cut off the one which would have ended up across my palm and arranged the other one to be in between the second and third segment of my fingers where it locates with the folds in my gloves.
This takes a great deal of pressure off my fingers and allows the throttle grip to bind better with my gloves.
My problem was similar to yours but caused by continually ringing the buggers neck and having the throttle ease round in my gloves.
P.S. Bought them from Netley Marsh autojumble couple of years ago but have seen them many times since including Kempton Park etc.
AL
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