Z1OwnersClub GB

How do you guys adjust your chains? The manual reckons to put the bike on the centre stand and aim for 30 - 35 mm play in the middle of the bottom run of the chain. However, with the bike off the stand and me sitting on it that chain gets wicked tight - like a guitar string.

It's a new chain and sprocket set so there are no tight spots to deal with.

When I do my Triumph Speed Triple the chain is adjusted on the side stand to 35 - 40 mm play. When I'm sitting on it the slack is taken up but it doesn't feel anything near as tight as the Kwak because it was adjusted with most of the weight of the bike loaded beforehand.

I've got the JMC arm on it now - so I have to be careful to strike the right balance - don't want to be sawing through the alloy - and due to the higher profile of the arm I've less clearance over the stock item to play with.

I think you've answered your conundrum yourself....

The improtant bit is to have correct tension whilst on the bike...

So you'll have to try it a few times and get someone to check with you on it, or get a similar stature person to sit on the bike whilst you check

I reckon the manual assumes everyone is a four stone Japanese,
I adjust mine upright on it's wheels and to the wider margin which seems about right when i'm sat on it.

I know this sounds daft (!!!!!) but I used to sit on the bike and lean over holding a claw hammer and hook it under the chain and feel the movement though the handle to the amount of "slack". I could also see to a point good enough to get it correct.
Silly old duffer ain't I?!

Cheers, I figured the Triumph method sounded a better deal. I'm a tad concerned about the chain rubbing on the arm. Anyone know where I can get strips of flat nylon to act as a buffer plate?

I guess a paddock stand might be a good route to go. Praps stick a sack o taters on the seat

vduk wrote:I guess a paddock stand might be a good route to go. Praps stick a sack o taters on the seat

Great minds think alike- even as I type the bike is propped up on my trusty universal paddock stand. It'll go some way to getting a more accurate reading - then I'll see what the take up is with my strapping six foot frame and beer gut on the bike..

I've also noticed the sprocket is smaller than standard - 34 teeth instead of 39 oem. I worked out (using an online gear ratio tool) that it's theoretically capable of providing a 18 mph gain at full chat. Weighing up the loss of that small gain against the chain sawing through the middle of the JMC I've opted to put on the standard rear sprocket - raising the chain run to a less risky height - the diameter of the sprocket being some 20 mm greater than the one that was on it.

A rubbing pad fixed to the top of the arm will stop the chain cutting through.

If you have all three axle centres in line and 3/4" chain movement at the tightest point that is the correct chain tension. When you have done that put the shocks back on and measure it on side stand / centre stand to see how much movement you have there and write that down for future use.

Rich wrote:A rubbing pad fixed to the top of the arm will stop the chain cutting through.

If you have all three axle centres in line and 3/4" chain movement at the tightest point that is the correct chain tension. When you have done that put the shocks back on and measure it on side stand / centre stand to see how much movement you have there and write that down for future use.

Good stuff. Thanks. Know anywhere where I can get a rubbing strip?

Try JMC, are there any tappings to fit one? May be in the top or side

Rich wrote:Try JMC, are there any tappings to fit one? May be in the top or side

No, it's completely flat. I was hoping to use an industrial bonding material like Sikaflex and stick a flat piece of nylon bar or similar.

Chain would probably tear it off . Countersunk rivets work best . File a taper on the leading edge as well .







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