Z1OwnersClub GB

I'm thinking of ditching the auto tensioning cam chain arrangement and going for a manual one instead.

Having always had auto adjusters on my previous bikes I am unsure as to the correct procedure for adjustment. How do you know that you've got the manual adjustment just so?

from memry you wind it in till you feel resistanse then back of a 1/4 turn or suming like that ........ 15mm spaner for ape one.
wayne

As Wayne says.... finger tight... then back off a touch.
Ideally best to tack cam cover off and tighten until the slack is JUST taken up & its done

What top end are we talking about????




AL

zorded wrote:What top end are we talking about????

AL

KZ1000-M1 CSR - which uses the Z1000J engine.

Pigford
PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 5:16 pm Post subject:
As Wayne says.... finger tight... then back off a touch.
Ideally best to tack cam cover off and tighten until the slack is JUST taken up & its done Wink

Does it have an idler BLADE in the top of the cam cover?????

If this is the top end like mine then taking the cam cover off and setting tension will cost you a couple of grand when you put the cam cover back on particularly if you really persevere and manage to get it running like that!!!!!


AL

zorded wrote:

Pigford
PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 5:16 pm Post subject:
As Wayne says.... finger tight... then back off a touch.
Ideally best to tack cam cover off and tighten until the slack is JUST taken up & its done Wink

Does it have an idler BLADE in the top of the cam cover?????

If this is the top end like mine then taking the cam cover off and setting tension will cost you a couple of grand when you put the cam cover back on particularly if you really persevere and manage to get it running like that!!!!!


AL

Yes it does. A push in rubber block affair about five inches long. I had the American spec cam cover with the emissions gubbins over the exhaust cam side (also had this blade) but swapped it for the conventional Z1000 J cover supplied by London Calling. Has a Hyvo cam chain.

Sorry, was refering to the round cam engines

Piggy,you'd better pay attention with your new Z as it's got the later "J" type motor

Yes Jack AVON Calling, sir

Don't worry, I'll be checking with you as I go, Jack m' Lad

Dark Skies there are several pages of text in the manual scattered about all over on the subject of cam chain adjustment, all of it is relevant here because you are doing several different things. Which bits are you aware of and which bits might be a bit more elusive???

What ever you do, dont take off the cam cover with the cam chain under tension. But definitely dont put it on when the same condition exists.

Top Dead Centre for cylinders X and X when removing old manual tensioner and when fitting new one...................... and if you need to use a spanner on a new Ape tensioner then you'll already have a problem somewhere else.


AL

zorded wrote:Dark Skies there are several pages of text in the manual scattered about all over on the subject of cam chain adjustment, all of it is relevant here because you are doing several different things. Which bits are you aware of and which bits might be a bit more elusive???

What ever you do, dont take off the cam cover with the cam chain under tension. But definitely dont put it on when the same condition exists.

Top Dead Centre for cylinders X and X when removing old manual tensioner and when fitting new one...................... and if you need to use a spanner on a new Ape tensioner then you'll already have a problem somewhere else.


AL

Cheers. Thus far I've not even bought the manual tensioner yet. The stock auto tensioner is in place and I've not touched it. At present I've merely swapped cam covers - I also swapped over the rubber block from my original cam cover head to my replacement head because it has no signs of perceptable wear (the one in the replacement had slight wear in the form of shallow tram lines). I figured that would keep the status quo regarding the existing tension. I was going to check the valve clearances this morning but seem to have mislaid my valve lifter holder for the moment.

This bit threw me:

"What ever you do, dont take off the cam cover with the cam chain under tension. But definitely dont put it on when the same condition exists."

I'm assuming you mean had I been fiddling with the tensioner - rather merely taking off the cam cover - otherwise how would it be possible to check valve clearances?

The idea is that the slipper blade, idler blade makes a significant contribution to the amount of tension in the cam chain and also holds the chain (hyvo) in better contact with the cam wheels.

This bit threw me:

"What ever you do, dont take off the cam cover with the cam chain under tension. But definitely dont put it on when the same condition exists."

I'm assuming you mean had I been fiddling with the tensioner - rather merely taking off the cam cover - otherwise how would it be possible to check valve clearances?

When you remove the cam cover the chain should still be in tension and as you remove the screws from the cover the tensioner will try to take up the slack. If you hold the cover down hard till the last screw you may get away with it but if the cover lifts off unevenly whilst still undoing screws you could break the head at the entry point for the remaining screws.
OK unlikely but possible.



In reverse; when you have removed the cover and rotated the engine to check the clearances the idler blade is not present so the chain tensioner will take up the slack and make the top run of the chain tight.
Replacing the cover after this will put another 1/2 inch of tension into the chain and since the double taper lock on the tensioner is designed to resist being made to release backwards, you would crack the cam cover as you screw it down.
Needless to say; far more damage likely if like me you refuse to be beaten by something that refuses to go back where it just came from.

I am sure you knew this but thread headed off in a particular direction and i wasn't sure what you had done so far in the sequence of events.

Simple answer would be to remove the cap, spring and cross slide from the tensioner before you go in.



AL

Good thread, and thanx coz now I also know

zorded wrote:...................... and if you need to use a spanner on a new Ape tensioner then you'll already have a problem somewhere else.


AL

Spaner was for undooin loknut... its proly not 15mm its mor than likly inglish but it fits

wayne av a bit ov a promlem getin fings over sumtims