Z1OwnersClub GB

Following on from Ludders post in the On eBay section about a special for sale

http://www.z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/vie ... php?t=5468

I noticed this is using K&N's instead of an air box and has a small filter connected to the crank case breather. Same set up I use but not ideal I found... His filter is sparkly new (I know he's advertising it so maybe changed it for the photos), mine got oily very quickly and used to drip oily residue everywhere. Has anyone else had this problem? Is it common or is there a simple solution please?

This can be a problem due to crank case pressure build up.
You must be thrashing it too much
I run a moderately tuned motor with a breather fitted to the filler cap, along with a centre breather filter.
Its a common mod to remove the baffle plates under the cap for better air flow. Unfortunately, oil blowing out of the breather can be an indication of fumes blowing past the piston rings, pressurising the crankcases
You could also try running a pipe from the breather take-off and route it 'up' & over to a catch tank or even aim it at the drive chain for oiling
The standard set up recycles it into the air box, which along with reducing emmissions, help lube the carb slides
Check your oil level's not too high

Actually it's in bits at the moment but thanks for the reply Pigford. I actually routed it to the right side of the bike and lubricated the real wheel, much fun

Have had piston problems in the past so on this rebuild I'll try to get it right!

Do you have a pic on here of the breather on the filler cap?

I modified the filler cap... cut the flat bit off, drilled a hole & fitted the hose. Its actually off a Tornado jet of all things So real hi-tech

Pigford wrote:I modified the filler cap... cut the flat bit off, drilled a hole & fitted the hose. Its actually off a Tornado jet of all things So real hi-tech

From a Tornado!!!! Jezzzus! I'm gonna source mine from a Eurofighter

if you fit a crank filter you are supposed to put the filter 12" or more from the crankcases to allow the oil splash to run back down. you should not fit a crank breather on the oil filler cap on a gzp1100 or z1000j because it is located at the front and the spin of the clutch flicks loads of oil up the pipe.

big green bus wrote:if you fit a crank filter you are supposed to put the filter 12" or more from the crankcases to allow the oil splash to run back down. you should not fit a crank breather on the oil filler cap on a gzp1100 or z1000j because it is located at the front and the spin of the clutch flicks loads of oil up the pipe.

Right, well mine was down below and my mill is a Z1000 A2 I think (it's been 10 years! I'm old!) Have to say, what came from the filter was very watery and on start-up there was a lot of fumes from the filter

If I were you I'd try and source a standard air box, they're far better than K&Ns et al. The air going into the engine is sourced from still air at constant pressure, whereas S&Bs/K&NS et al are always sucking at disturbed air streams at constantly changing pressure. Steve Debben proved that they got better performance from stock air boxes, you can often fit K&N filters inside the air box

vduk wrote:If I were you I'd try and source a standard air box, they're far better than K&Ns et al. The air going into the engine is sourced from still air at constant pressure, whereas S&Bs/K&NS et al are always sucking at disturbed air streams at constantly changing pressure. Steve Debben proved that they got better performance from stock air boxes, you can often fit K&N filters inside the air box

I have the standard airbox as well vduc, just was told K&N's would be better for my engine (maybe bad advice) And I can't get enough of you postin that lufferley girl raising her top

Tornado Jet
The head of the Israel air force was asked if he was was worried that Saudi Arabia had bought Tornados, he replied "the only worry I have is the Tornado is a flying piano and it may fall on my head"
Shit aircraft but should be good to scavenge for parts (airoquip etc)

Back to topic my oil breather filter is under my seat (i have pod filters) just bought the correct airbox, airmass transfer and filter for the Gpz b1 to mate up to carbs as I have a flat spot @ 5.5 to 6k . I will refit the breather back into the airbox so my arse doesn't look like its on fire at the traffic lights......

Tall_order wrote:

vduk wrote:If I were you I'd try and source a standard air box, they're far better than K&Ns et al. The air going into the engine is sourced from still air at constant pressure, whereas S&Bs/K&NS et al are always sucking at disturbed air streams at constantly changing pressure. Steve Debben proved that they got better performance from stock air boxes, you can often fit K&N filters inside the air box

I have the standard airbox as well vduc, just was told K&N's would be better for my engine (maybe bad advice) And I can't get enough of you postin that lufferley girl raising her top

hmmmm, maybe - slapping on K&N supposedly improves breathing but there is more to it than that.

the original set up has carb to airbox rubbers, the ends of these are shaped like trumpets - it is proven that this improves performance and the lenght and shape makes a difference too - there is nowt like this with K&N set up. Also original set up has airbox, the volume of which can be used to tune the engine to optimise performance - look at modern bikes - but looking at size and shape of the olde Z box I suspect this was more to keep the air filter in place rather than for tuning - I may be wrong on that count as Ben Inamura and the boys may well have started to understand airbox tuning back in the late 60s.

Depends what state of tune the bikes in I suppose.
I run K&N's mainly coz I like the looks
I got decent carbs (RS36's) and she runs good, all thru the range, as shown by a dyno (Jam), nice flat curve & a good +100bhp at the crank
If you're into BIG power like Steve (Romeo) Debben (150 bhp ) then every little bit helps.
K&N's with standard carbs can defo be a pain in the arse to set up
Lets face it, for us mere mortals, pods/std air box/velocity stacks can be hard work to be made to work OK, but with a bit of messing we can struggle through.
Just fitting a non-standard exhaust can upset the carbs enuff to be a headache
This debate tends to get into too much theory and if you have trouble tuning the carbs or get a bit lost, stick with standard