Cam Chain tension.

[Glen]

I am now back from trashing my work bike (H**** VFR 750). The bike was a right off and I broke collar bone and damaged nerves in neck. 8 weeks and I am now well enough to get to work on the Z1. I have put top end back together with new valve guides ect. The valve timing has gone really well with help from the cub, but I am not comfortable with the cam chain tension. The spring seems to be fine, but after tensioning the cam chain statically I can push on the chain with finger and there is still some slack there. I am concerned that when I start the engine the cam chain will be too loose and mess up.

[rickman CRR]

I suppose it depends on what you consider to be excessive play in the chain. Have you replaced any of the rollers or guides or are these all within tolerances? For more discussion on the issue, try the search field option at the top of the page.

If all of the parts are ok, I'd turn the engine over manually a few times using the large 14mm? nut on the ignition timing side of the crankcase just to make sure its all moving freely. Adjust crank to T mark and loosen the cam chain tensioner. As you know this has a spring to ensure the tensioner takes up any residual play in the chain. To ensure its not sticking I usually give the tensioner body a wee tap to ensure its not sticking. retighten and recheck its all moving freely.

Others may advise fitting an APE tensioner, which is adjusted manually but perhaps is not essential in a standard tuned engine.

Hope this helps.

[Buckle]

Others may advise fitting an APE tensioner, which is adjusted manually but perhaps is not essential in a standard tuned engine.

Hope this helps.

+1 for the APE tensioner. As it's manual nothing can go wrong.

Unless you over adjust it, or forget to do the locknut up, or forget to adjust it - ever

[Pigford]

APE or Orient Express EVERYTIME...
Standard or Tuned engine..... camchain should not have much slack at all

[RALPHARAMA]

+1 for standard tensioner. They were design for the bike and I've never had a problem with one. If twas a 750 four 'onda I could see the need to change it, but big Zeds have hardly got a bad reputation for shredding cam chains.

[Pigford]

Refer to the experienced expert; our very own Mr Steve (Romeo) Debben

He recommends an hand screw (snigger) cam chain tensioner everytime.
The standard units are well known to get stuck or strip the piddly thread from time to time

For £30-odd its not worth risking a cam chain failure

If you don't rev it much, then maybe stick with the std one, but if the std one if dodgy, get a decent one fitted.
Kawasaki (& the other Jap firms) produced things to a budget, and the 70's wasn't the best era for this type of contraption