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re-installing cams help needed please !!

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knut
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re-installing cams help needed please !!

#1 PostAuthor: knut » Fri May 02, 2008 11:08 pm

having checked and replaced a few shims on my a4 i,m having trouble re-installing the cams and cam chain.i,ve followed the instructions in the haynes manual step by step and lined up all the marks on the cams ,etc everything seemed ok until i try and turn over the engine with the kick starter. there,s no movement at all all the plugs are out and i kept the chain tight on exhaust cam side so don,t think it,s off the crank sprocket.have disassembled the lot and started over again several times and it,s still the same result :x i,ve kept the cam chain tied up and left the cams out and it turns over no problem ,and no it,s not in gear either :!:
i, haven,t done this kind work before ,but it can,t be too hard either can it :?: maybe it,s time to put away the tools and let the experts do it but then that,s no fun,
any ideas guys what i,m doing wrong :?:
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chrisu
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#2 PostAuthor: chrisu » Sat May 03, 2008 6:26 am

hi,

this diagram should help but if you can't work it out I'd hope someone who is more local can offer 'onsite' assistance. Get it wrong and you'll be bending valves.

regards.............chris

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Steve Cooke
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#3 PostAuthor: Steve Cooke » Sat May 03, 2008 6:37 am

It does sound like your not quite getting the setup right, the valves will bend very easily so be careful, personally when checking rotation I would use a spanner on the crank rather than the kick start as you get a bit more feel.

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#4 PostAuthor: kwaka » Sun May 04, 2008 4:30 am

Hi knut, check that the front chain guide hasnt snapped and jammed up the chain, i had that problem with mine. The motor would turn one way by hand but not the other.

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#5 PostAuthor: FER » Sun May 04, 2008 8:34 am

The only thing Haynes manuals are good for is starting fires . Buy the original Kawasaki workshop manual and read it before you try fixing things , this will give you an understanding of how things are supposed to work . I have known lots of people who used the wrong marks on the cam sprockets using Haynes manuals as the pictures are crap . The original manual will be the best thing you can buy for your bike . Once you have the right manual take the Haynes out back of the garage and have a little burning ceremony . Your bike will love you even more ! ! !





fer

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Z1RII
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#6 PostAuthor: Z1RII » Sun May 04, 2008 10:42 am

most of the people havn´t done it before take the marks on the rubbers of the sprockets NOT the small mark on the steel next to the bolt.

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knut
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#7 PostAuthor: knut » Thu May 15, 2008 8:02 am

thanks guys, sorted it out at last , i had everything right (well almost) except the exhaust cam wasn,t seated right on the tacho drive and had locked up the lot.now it all timed up correctly but i think the cam chain is worn :!: it seems to go a bit slack on top at some point while turning the crank over by hand.what kind of replacement chain would ye recomend ?and how about the use of a split link , cos i don,t fancy stripping the engine . :?:
thanks knut
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Dark Skies
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#8 PostAuthor: Dark Skies » Thu May 15, 2008 5:28 pm

Are you sure the chain was put on correctly? Sometimes it's possible to get the chain on with a link dangling like a dogs bollock at the bottom on the crank sprocket. Upon rotation it clears and the chain goes slack.
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Pigford
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#9 PostAuthor: Pigford » Thu May 15, 2008 8:23 pm

DON'T use a split link..... use a HARD link that you have to 'burr over', if you ain't gonna split the engine :shock:
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RALPHARAMA
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#10 PostAuthor: RALPHARAMA » Thu May 15, 2008 10:33 pm

DON'T use a split link..... use a HARD link that you have to 'burr over', if you ain't gonna split the engine Shocked


What's with the burred over? What the biscuit addict is refering to is a soft link. This is riveted in place - you use the old chain as a mouse to pull the new chain through. Once you have the new chain in position you push the soft link through the two chain ends. You push a dolly (a heavy lump of iron or steel with a flat face) against the back of the pins of the soft link and fit the front plate to it. The soft protruding ends of the pins on the soft link are then dressed or peened over to form reaction.

As piglet rightly points out split links are not to be used on any chain on a motorcycle, as they have a nasty habit of letting go causing all manner of shit, pain and grief (mostly for the riders relatives) :twisted:
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knut
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#11 PostAuthor: knut » Fri May 16, 2008 7:58 am

hi, chain is on correctly me thinks,just think the chain is shagged,there,s two slight marks on the top of the cam chain tunnel on the inlet side where the chain was rubbing against it.the bike was very noisey when i got it first,the previous owner (harley man)knew even less than me about bikes :!: sorry guys when i said split link ,i,d meant a rivet/soft link .z1 enterprises do a 122 link chain with a soft link,think i,ll go for that.cheers.
what,s there to say except we,re all mad on here.


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