gpz1100 unitrac cam timing

[pluto]

I've bolted my unitrac motor back together and cant get the cam timing marks to line up properly. The crankshaft T mark is a couple of degrees forward of where it should be when the cam marks line up properly with the head. Its much less than 1 tooth out. The head and barrels have been machined flat so I presume the slight loss of height is the cause. Everything else is standard.
My question is can I slot the cam sprockets with my dremmel (or fit some APE sprockets) so that I can set the crank to the T mark then move the cams so they line up with the head. Is this an accurate enough way of doing things? I have read about degreeing in cams but I've never done it and dont have the kit. Am I on the right lines or missing something else?
Thanks Dave

[Julian_Boolean]

The exhaust cam arrow should line up with the top of the top gasket face of the head when the T 1.4 mark lines up with the arrow, you then count 41 pins (i think, check a manual) round to the arrow on the inlet cam, with the camcover off and the cam chain tight the inlet cam mark will be lower than the gasket face because the cam cover pushes down on the cam chain, the Clymer manual is pretty clear.

If the exhaust arrow doesnt line up with the gasket face then either your cam needs moving or your cam chain has worn and got longer.

[martinz1000r]

Julian is right and you do have a lot of variables that time and mass production will expose. Did you rebuild with a new cam chain? Also remember the timing marks are mass produced and are never truly accurate. You should only use these as a guide. Use a positive stop tool and a degree disc to find true tdc. You can buy these from Debbens or you are welcome to borrow mine if you want to pop up to Faringdon. When you have tdc set you can then line up the timing marks on the cams. Rather than slot your own cams you might be best buying slotted cam sprockets. You will then need a dial gauge.......

[z1bman]

i never use the timing marks on the camshafts a much easier way to check is by looking at the notches at the end of each cam when the timing is correct half of the notch should be above the the mating surface as in this picture

[pluto]

Hi Julian
Thanks for the input. To clarify a few things, the cams are fitted correctly and the exhaust cam arrow lines up with the head, as you say the inlet arrow is slightly lower due to the cam cover being off. There is a new cam chain fitted. I think due to the skimmed head and barrel faces decreasing the distance between the crank sprocket and the cam sprockets that it is having the same effect as a very worn camchain. if I raise the head by 1mm all the marks line up. What I need to know is how do I adjust the cam sprockets to deal with this.
Thanks Dave

[z1bman]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kawasaki-GPZ1 ... SwbqpTtWFQ

[pluto]

Thanks for more input. I'm going to check a few things including the notch thing in the morning but I think I am going to have to learn to do this properly using the degree disc etc.
Martin thanks for the offer I will be in touch.
Cheers
Dave

[Al]

You can dremmel them so long as you do it carefully (rotational manner) and you do the spot face that the bolts 'spread head' sits in. Better with a mill and a rotary table though.
Likely though you wont need to do anything since the crank T mark is anti-clock from the timing cover mark, when the new chain beds to the three sprockets all will line up.
TBH unless you are prepared to do many hours on the dyno or you know in advance what the LC numbers are that will give you what you want, then standard timing will be perfectly satisfactory. If you want to dremmel them and experiment, based on my experience; lower numbers bring the torque in earlier, higher number... co-respondingly later. I have seen it written authoritatively both ways round but i think one of them was talking about max power which would be the reverse of what i just wrote above. 108 or 109 would be fine but early reports from unitrak owners, when they were a new bike, i have heard it said "that they suffered from not having enough torque". Since torque is what i use to get through and out of corners i have favoured this with slightly lower numbers because i value it more than outright power.
I have got all the guff you need to set LC timing including a bracket that holds the cam chain down mimicking the cam cover if you want to borrow any or all of it. Just ask.
Just for information; 1 cam tooth is 3 (i think) degrees of crank rotation so at worst with a target of 110 LC you would be between 107 and 113 and if i could tell the difference between those two i would be a liar.
I would check it again after a couple of hundred miles and expect to see it pretty much spot on..

AL