Z1OwnersClub GB

Morning All,

The metmachex style swinging arm on the ZRX 1200R has thrown up an issue

The drive chain is looped through it and must be broken to remove.

I normally just fit a new endless chain when the swinger is out but that won't work here.

I can get one of these tools for sensible money -



But the other kind is about 4 times the price and I can't justify for a one off project.

So the question is -

Has anyone used these KM500 style splitter/ riveters and are they any good or one to avoid?

I believe the new chain needs to be 530 FB x ring 106 links for a ZRX 1200R if anyone can confirm please?

What does 530 actually stand for again and what does FB denote please?

Or does anyone near GL7 postcode have the better tool avail for loan?

That's all my chain thoughts for now.

Cheers for looking from Mark

Mark these cheapo chain riviters are poor,and usually break,i usually use a grinder to break chains by grinding off a pin and have a tool to push out pins that looks like the picture they wont push out pins without grinding off the head.I have an old heavy vice,that i grip a sledge hammer head in as an anvil,fit the new chain and use a ball pein hammer to peen over the rivet,testing all the time to make sure chain doenst go too tight.Paul J

Cheers Paul,

I have a grinder so I can do that to weaken the link I am removing.

Any thoughts from others?

I always grind top off a rivet using cutting disc in my Dremel. Replacement links are easily available for most chain types on eBay for about a £5. Just drift out using punch.

I have a Whale riveting tool. It's worth the investment as it will last for ever. Cheap versions are rubbish. Just buy the Whale tool for riveting. You wont need to spend extra to get cutting tool and will save you ££.

i'd say spend the money on a proper one or borrow one if you can.

Grind the heads off and the push old link out.

The good kit has a pin pusher, a tool to close up the new O ring chain and then another tool to mushroom the new link.

I've done a dozen chains with mine and its still works fine. 630 and 530 chains.

The tool pictured is a copy of the original DID KM500 tool. They were introduced for home users - for which they are perfectly adequate. It is still better to take the ends of the flare off with a tool of some kind, but if you line up the press pin straight and correctly, they will push out the link pin easily. I have done hundreds. You only break pins by incorrect use, such as not lining things up correct, or not having the tool correctly tightened on to the outer plate.

The original DID KM500 tool retails at well over a hundred quid. The copy item gives a more affordable option for less than professional use. If you are using a DID sealed ring chain, you need a tool of that type to attach the new rivet link.

NEVER use a hammer type tool on DID sealed ring chains - at least not any DID chain made in the last 20 years.

DID chains need the ends of the joining link flaring over, not hammering over. The link pin itself is hardened, the end of the link - the part that needs to be flared, is softer. Once you start whacking away and hammering the ends over, even with a Whale tool - you start creating micro fractures in the hardened part of the pin.

That can and has lead on to catastrophic failure of that joining link, you really do not want that happening.

pertonpc wrote:
What does 530 actually stand for again

530 means

5 means 5 x 1/8th of an inch between the rivet centres 5/8ths total = 0.625" [15.88mm]

and

30means 3.0 x 1/8th of an inch for the roller width 3/8ths total = 0.375" [9.52mm] roller width



a 525 chain would have 2.5 times 1/8th = 0.3125" [7.93mm]

Beware 532 chains, these have the 5 x 1/8th pitch and 3 x 1/8th width, but the rollers are slightly larger diameter, they seem to fit, but in action roll up the sprocket teeth and make a hell of a noise, if you don't spot it.

I bought one of these...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Ch ... qCRZc8WlRg

It's done about 5 links for me now, remove and re-fit and it's probably got one more in it.

If you're happy with that at the price, it does the job. If I was running a shop I wouldn't have it in there.

Thanks Lads,

I found out what FB stands for - think it is only on IRIS chains -

•FB Stands For Fine Blanking, an incredibly precise manufacturing process that yields perfectly cut links. Tight tolerances make the plate, pin and bushing union accurate and strong
•Due to the accuracy of the cuts and the use of stronger alloyed steel the FB has highest tensile strength rating
•Special sealing rings are chemically treated to gain strength and reduce friction. The FB treatment allows the X-rings to be impregnated with grease.

. . . and the word is I need 110 links on it.

Cheers

I too am looking at buying a decent chain riveting tool.
However, 99.9% of suppliers, retailers etc. continually fail to state if their tool is for use on solid or hollow only pins. This makes a bloody huge difference, in that if it's for hollow pins only then it won't do the facking job on most classic jap bikes that have OE spec chains fitted.
My ZRX1100R, VF500F2 and VF1000R all have chains with solid pins. 85% of rivet tools on offer are therefore of no bloody use and you can easily waste your money.
Please be aware of this if you are looking to buy a rivet tool soon.
As for me, I shall be buying one that WILL do the job from Bikers Toolbox.

Thanks Will,

Perhaps you will post a link to the one you end up choosing and give us a pic or review of how it performs.

I have the new chain landing today but I won't be fitting it for a few weeks and haven't ordered the tool yet.

I am very aware of the need to roll the pin ends over on the split link - enough to keep it secure for the torque demands - but too much will impact on the links flexibility and o ring performance - so very happy to follow in your footsteps.

Mark