Z1OwnersClub GB

Hi Guys
Now i hve not owned one of these before so bear with me.
It started fine ran fine then devloped a misfire on a little ride out, yhe bugger made it home and now wont start. I have dumped old fuel and flushed out tank then charged battery. It tutned over well for a few seconds and then the batt started to die, and yhis is after a full night on charge so i have ordered a new motobatt battery for it.

Now to the crux of the matter it eould not start on the kick. So does the ignition take its juice from the battery or is it self generating like a race ignition. If so i now have a double head ache along with the z1100r.
Please help.

Sounds as though your battery's knackered. As long as you've some charge in the battery it will kickstart and run. ( as long as its charging ) sounds like it's not charging when its running.
Put a multi meter on it when new batterys fitted.

If its not charging, as the battery voltage drops it will misfire.
Its worth fitting a combined regulator / rectifier if you've not got one

Check all the electrical connections including the earth, battery posts. I had a fully charged battery but the posts had oxidized causing high resistance. Might be worth draining the float bowls as well to see if there's any gunge in them.

check the fuses aren't corroded

start from scratch,new battery ,check plugs points condenser,clean fuel,maybe clean the carbs,when you get it running take it out get it warmed up good then check your plugs and maybe colour tone it....these babys kick start easy when everything ok.

I can start mine with my hand using the kickstart

Fit new battery - remove tank - switch ignition on (Check kill switch is on RUN) - put a meter on coils to check a good 12v is reaching coils!

Ditch the shite NGK's & fit DENSO - then refit tank, fire her up and go for a ride

Battery is due tomo. So today fit new batterys to multi meter and that is bleeding dead now. FFS! So now is of yo someone like maplins for a multimeter.

I have ordered a clamp on meter from flea bay 9.95 delivered good enough for what i want hopefully.

Just a heads up on the motobatt battery, don't use a normal charger..MUST USE A TRICKLE CHARGER.. MOTOBATT also sell a trickle charger ( and it's yellow too baby boy)
On eBay for £19.95.. keep us updated.. once you have the battery connected, turn on ignition, kill switch to run, put a plug in the side of the engine, with plug cap on, and turn over to see if there's a spark?.. if not could be the kill switch.. just saying...

Thanks for the advice i have access to a batt charger for model cars etc. And that can trickle charge on all sorts of battery. Wont know till w/e if it works and subseqently what bike im riding to Kempton park bike jumble on saturday.

Got me thinking on this,i have used motobatts in the past and still use one on my Gs,but seems ones i have been told fail suddenly may be due to the following

As with all gelled and sealed units, AGM batteries are sensitive to overcharging. A charge to 2.40V/cell (and higher) is fine; however, the float charge should be reduced to between 2.25 and 2.30V/cell (summer temperatures may require lower voltages). Automotive charging systems for flooded lead acid often have a fixed float voltage setting of 14.40V (2.40V/cell); a direct replacement with a sealed unit could overcharge the battery on a long drive.

We all know Zeds etc with their old type charging systems put out 14.6 volts ,just a thought!

PAULJAC47 wrote:Got me thinking on this,i have used motobatts in the past and still use one on my Gs,but seems ones i have been told fail suddenly may be due to the following

As with all gelled and sealed units, AGM batteries are sensitive to overcharging. A charge to 2.40V/cell (and higher) is fine; however, the float charge should be reduced to between 2.25 and 2.30V/cell (summer temperatures may require lower voltages). Automotive charging systems for flooded lead acid often have a fixed float voltage setting of 14.40V (2.40V/cell); a direct replacement with a sealed unit could overcharge the battery on a long drive.

We all know Zeds etc with their old type charging systems put out 14.6 volts ,just a thought!

Very valid point indeed, hit the nail exactly on the head.

scott wrote:

PAULJAC47 wrote:Got me thinking on this,i have used motobatts in the past and still use one on my Gs,but seems ones i have been told fail suddenly may be due to the following

As with all gelled and sealed units, AGM batteries are sensitive to overcharging. A charge to 2.40V/cell (and higher) is fine; however, the float charge should be reduced to between 2.25 and 2.30V/cell (summer temperatures may require lower voltages). Automotive charging systems for flooded lead acid often have a fixed float voltage setting of 14.40V (2.40V/cell); a direct replacement with a sealed unit could overcharge the battery on a long drive.

We all know Zeds etc with their old type charging systems put out 14.6 volts ,just a thought!

Very valid point indeed, hit the nail exactly on the head.

but running will usually mean stop start motoring, the generator o/p is not constant eg lights dim at idle and brighten when you rev...
Also I tend to run with my headlamp on, use the starter motor to start (not kick) which the battery will need time to charge

interestingly I have an LED H4 lamp in the 900A4 (HID in the GPz) If iam indicating at the traffic lights on the a4 then the led headlamp flashes at idle, on the GP the HID is constant

Valid Mark, but how about when cruising at motorway speeds?