Z1OwnersClub GB

Thanks again for the advice already given- I contacted the outlets you suggested, can source 4 or so of the parts for the clutch mechanism that is involved- no surprise that the most important part is "obsolete" - complete clutch release -the search continues.

To the point now, can i explain that I had a brilliant clutch action until!!!!! I removed the sprocket cover casing to ---Replace the gear shift oil seal, remarkably I managed this - thanks to You tube, so put it all back together and you know what comes next- clutch lever like a dead/limp fish or saloon door with broken hinges- oh no! What the heck have I done- now have no clutch engagement whatsoever, as best I can recall I put all that came back on, i do not recall losing any bits. Those of you have skills that dwarf my limited "ken" will perhaps be wetting yourself with laughter or dismissing me as an incompetent.
A friend has suggested that I have lost/forgotten/mislaid a ball bearing that sits between the pushrod and the clutch release housing (i do not mean the three ball bearings that are sat on the 3 holed plate in the inner assembly)

The "exploded diagram" for this clutch set up is the same as the Z1000 1983 J model.
I have enquired at one or two pitstops to ask if they would take this job on- stock answer "NO", away and chase yerself- what an attitude seems some folk don't want to touch anything other than a newish bike. Any advice would be much appreciated

Likely just needs the cable tension adjusted;
Carefully install the sprocket cover, making sure the push rod is engaged and then tighten up the cover.
Adjust the clutch play and cable tension; using a flat bladed screwdriver, turn the slotted screw clockwise(to the right) until it becomes hard to turn then turn it counter clockwise(to the left) 1/4 turn and tighten the lock nut.
The mid way cable adjuster and lever slack adjuster may need to be adjusted for correct cable slack.

Assuming its the same as the J; the flat plate with the captive bearings in it has a cut away on one side.
The inner casing cast boss has a 'tab' where the bearing plate sits.
Its barely noticeable.
Make sure the plate is not sitting on top of the tab and the flat cut away side is on the tab side.
This tab limits the rotation of the captive bearing plate.
If the bearing plate sits on top of the tab you cant adjust the clutch!!
You will need to clean out the boss with petrol in order to see it.

AL

Redbeard wrote:Likely just needs the cable tension adjusted;
Carefully install the sprocket cover, making sure the push rod is engaged and then tighten up the cover.
Adjust the clutch play and cable tension; using a flat bladed screwdriver, turn the slotted screw clockwise(to the right) until it becomes hard to turn then turn it counter clockwise(to the left) 1/4 turn and tighten the lock nut.
The mid way cable adjuster and lever slack adjuster may need to be adjusted for correct cable slack.

Many thanks, believe it or not I have done all this and replaced the clutch cable and tried to adjust at the two areas on the cable.. Will do all again, thinking that the parts are worn, a "mechanic" has advised me that a single Ball bearing between the pushrod and the clutch release "worm" housing mechanism is missing, I cannot see this on any diagrams! however it would give the small nudge that is needed to release the plates. only thing is the Clutch release components already give this nudge/push to the pushrod???

zorded wrote:Assuming its the same as the J; the flat plate with the captive bearings in it has a cut away on one side.
The inner casing cast boss has a 'tab' where the bearing plate sits.
Its barely noticeable.
Make sure the plate is not sitting on top of the tab and the flat cut away side is on the tab side.
This tab limits the rotation of the captive bearing plate.
If the bearing plate sits on top of the tab you cant adjust the clutch!!
You will need to clean out the boss with petrol in order to see it.

AL

Thank you for the pointers, will do all the cleaning and look closely at all the positioning. Big worry is that some parts look worn!! Complete clutch release mechanism on the arm has wear from the ball bearing "roll" in and out of the seats on the face of this part. Other thing is that one of the 3 ball bearings on the flat plate that sits on the ridged base plate moves through the hole, I had thought that it should only protrude not go right through, heh ho more greasy hands looks likely.

i am sure the adjuster screw is l/h thread so it needs to be turned anti clockwise until you feel resistance then turn it back clockwise 1/4 of a turn then tighten the lock nut