Z1OwnersClub GB

Been building up my engine this weekend (Z1B) and have got as far as fitting the cams, my problem (query) is that having installed the cams the marks on the exhaust cam don't quite line up parallel to the head but from the look of it if you were to move the chain one tooth in either direction it would be worse.
Could it be the newness of the camchain (DiD) or is it something more sinister?
Any comments appreciated

just use the cut outs in the end of the cams to set the timing when the timing is correct the cut out on the exhaust cam should be facing forward & half the cut out should be below the cylinder head surface the same for the inlet but the cut out for the inlet cam faces the rear

Thanks for that z1bman, however, I'm really confused now. The inlet cam looks right but on the exhaust the cut out is more or less vertical although the marks on the sprocket are almost horizontal

Post some photos

this engine has solid camshafts & no cut outs but if you imagine where you cut out would be on these cams half of the cut out will below the cylinder head surface on both inlet & exhaust

relisysxx wrote:Been building up my engine this weekend (Z1B) and have got as far as fitting the cams, my problem (query) is that having installed the cams the marks on the exhaust cam don't quite line up parallel to the head but from the look of it if you were to move the chain one tooth in either direction it would be worse.
Could it be the newness of the camchain (DiD) or is it something more sinister?
Any comments appreciated

Pin 1 is usually just below the gasket surface, providing you count the right number of pins to the inlet sprocket mark it should be right,

As Chrisu says post some pics you we will soon tell you if it looks wrong

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18_13_06_Pro_zpshfrorxrc.jpg[/IMG]

Proper confused now, have a look at these and see what you think

Groove in the end of the inlet cam should be horizontal and facing straight forward (in line with the top of the head). Groove to the exhaust cam horizontal and straight back (in line with he top of the head).

Have you got a Kawasaki Service manual.

PDF download -Original service manual on this link - See page 30 / 31
http://classickawasaki.se/downloads.asp

Your exhaust cam looks to be roughly 90 degrees too far advanced (7 teeth-ish out) and you are risking damage to the exhaust valves if you rotate the crank.
There is a good chance that at least number 4 exhaust valve is already in contact with the piston crown if not perilously close.
The lines on the cam sprocket rubber are not timing marks.
There is a small arrow/mark stamped on the actual metal near one of the sprocket teeth that needs to line up close to the top of the head.
The arrow/mark is currently near the lone exhaust sprocket bolt that is currently facing downwards.

This pic should make it all clear.

Sorted! Thanks for all your help. Now
Next question.......
Have had the valve seats done and now have zero valve clearance so how do I go about working out shim sizes (interestingly there where only two sizes of shim fitted)?

Buy a 2mm shim and go through each one, one at a time, you should be able to work out what size you need, while you are at it check the size of your existing shims before you put hem back in some you may be able to swap around and others you can use the clubs shim swap service.

You need to fit the thinnest shim which is a .200mm (although 190's can be found) .
Measure the clearance (say its .045mm ) and deduct the clearance you want (say .015mm ) = 0.30mm.
Add that remaining figure (0.30mm) to the .200mm shim fitted and that should give you the size of shim (0.230mm) needed for that valve.
Hopefully doing the seats hasn't sunk the valves so far that the stem height is too high and the thinnest shim is still too thick.
If that's the case you will need to pull the head and tip the valve stems at the very least to regain clearance.

Thanks for that

I did have a 180 shim - but lent it out a few years back and not seen it since

If tips of valves need trimming - I believe its a max of 0.3mm