Z1OwnersClub GB

I have acquired a Z1000. 1977. From the USA, Could any member give me the procedure and resistance values to enable me to test my Ignition coils on this model. I will be grateful for any help with this.

Dookbob wrote:I have acquired a Z1000. 1977. From the USA, Could any member give me the procedure and resistance values to enable me to test my Ignition coils on this model. I will be grateful for any help with this.

resistance across the input two wires should be 4+ and across the two ht leads should be 15 + to be servicable. Then do the wired george mod.

Warren has given a basic explanation.
For more details..... test coils by setting up a normal voltmeter into "Resistance mode" with a scale 20 K ohms.

Now, measure the resistance between one end of the lead (with spark plug not connected) to the other lead of the coil to be tested.It should read approx 15k ohms. Both coils should read the same.

Next test the resistance between the low tension side of the coil. Change the scale to 10ohms. both coils should read the same ... approx 3 to 4 ohms.-

Hey, Dookbob..... you're not related to Babadook by any chance

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=szaLnKNWC-U

Thanks for the info guys, I will get those coils checked out as soon as I can get back in the workshop.
Hi Pigford, no, I,m not related to Babadook.

I have found that there is one of the 6mm starter motor holding down bolts sheared about half way along its length. it,s the rear bolt of the two vertical bolts. I have been trying to come up with a plan of action to tackle this but I havn,t had any inspiration yet. has anyone had the same thing happen to them?
Problem is of course that I cant move the motor upwards because it needs to go back first , and the broken bolt that is still in place is acting like a dowel.
I,m removing the engine soon to get the frame powder coated, but the problem will still be the same .

Gee, that's a hard one DookBob,
Once the engine is out of the frame and after a few soaks with WD40, I would get a 6mm left hand drill and see how you go, The existing 6mm clearance hole in the alloy should act as a guide. if it doesn't budge during the drill out, make sure you leave about a quarter of an inch to grab it with pliers, once the starter is lifted.

RegardZ.

the coils checked out ok with a reading of 5 at the primary and 15 at the HT.
I had to remove the plug caps to get a reading across the HT circuit though, the caps tested OK when I removed them so I,m thinking that the ends of the leads are hardened and worn so not making a good connection. I,m assuming that the leads cant be detached from the coils so I will see if there is enough slack in them to be able to snip them back a bit.
What is the " wired George mod" that was mentioned in an earlier post?

There is a trick if the ht leads are too short as they are not replacable in the coil. Its not ideal but works fine. Cut the existing ht lead back until you get clean core wire. Get a thin steel self tapping screw about an inch long. Cut the head off, sharpen the cut end and screw into the cut end of the ht lead. Screw new ht lead onto the other end of the screw. Before the two ht leads butt up smear some silicon around the joint then tighten the two ht leads up. Cover with some heat shrink tube then cover that with the rubber sleeve from the old ht lead.
sounds a bit heath robinson but its the only way that I've found that doesn't let the moisture into an ht lead joint and have a big lumpy joiner visible.
wired george mod can be found here. It powers the coils direct from the battery and gives a much better spark.
http://www.wgcarbs.com/index.php/using- ... s/89-coils

Or you could buy some new coils