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Splitting z900a4 speedo / rev counter to renew clock faces
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Splitting z900a4 speedo / rev counter to renew clock faces
Can any one help me with how to split speed rev counter on z900a4 want to renew clock faces and clean inside glass. Have prized up the metal ring but bottom of clock won't come away from black top part. Many thanks mark
Z9A4tfx
- mick znone
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- Location: Cornwall
clock splitting
Rubber seals stuck. You need to prize the back of the clock away from the rubber seal first. Don't try to prize the top off otherwise you will rip the seal in half.
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Re: Splitting z900a4 speedo / rev counter to renew clock fac
markhemstock wrote:Can any one help me with how to split speed rev counter on z900a4 want to renew clock faces and clean inside glass. Have prized up the metal ring but bottom of clock won't come away from black top part. Many thanks mark
Ebay £20.00 plus £3 postage waiting for them to arrive but reviews all good big selection all models
Z9A4tfx
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Re: Splitting z900a4 speedo / rev counter to renew clock fac
markhemstock wrote:markhemstock wrote:Can any one help me with how to split speed rev counter on z900a4 want to renew clock faces and clean inside glass. Have prized up the metal ring but bottom of clock won't come away from black top part. Many thanks mark
Ebay £20.00 plus £3 postage waiting for them to arrive but reviews all good big selection all models
http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/fluffosborne seller id
Z9A4tfx
- mick znone
- Hardcore
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- Joined: 13th Jun 2008
- Location: Cornwall
always worth asking on the site or doing a search before buying stuff mark, the chap is a club member, may have sent a set direct.
http://z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... ight=saxon
looks like youve picked a good seller though, good quality gear.
http://z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... ight=saxon
looks like youve picked a good seller though, good quality gear.
I DONT CARE, IN OR OUT BUT IM ENJOYING THE DEBATE......................ARMSTRONG MT500. a pushbike, waves.....addict, no offence
Yes the crimp rings are a pain in the arse.
This is the way I do it:
1. Bore a large hole in a thick block of wood (2 inch), the same diameter as the top cover and thick enough to allow the top cover to go into.
2. Remove the Phillips screw on the underside of the clock and remove the lower cover. (This cover is not held by the cimp ring!)
3. Apply protective tape to the outermost section of the crimp ring.
4. Invert the clock assembly into the wooden block and fit a large hose (jubilee) clip around the outer section of the crimp ring. (This will ensure the crimp ring retains its shape whilst being very carefully prised up.)
5. Using a suitable screwdriver, patiently and carefully prise the LOWER side of the crimp ring upwards. Working a little bit at a time is the best practice here and don't try to prise the ring all the way up in one go.
6. Once the crimp ring has been "folded" up enough, the crimp ring and top cover can be removed, but you'll have to lift the inverted clock assembly out of the block and release the tension on the hose clip to see if it's been released enough. If not, repeat the above steps.
When reassembling the clocks, fold the crimp ring down a little at a time. I usually start at 10mm intrvals for one pass, then down to 5mm for the next pass, then down to 1mm to finally fold the ring down.
The ring can then be painted and and when the bottom cover is refitted, it hides most of the marks made by the folding.
Hope this is to some use to some of you.
I can post pics if you like.
Regards, Will

This is the way I do it:
1. Bore a large hole in a thick block of wood (2 inch), the same diameter as the top cover and thick enough to allow the top cover to go into.
2. Remove the Phillips screw on the underside of the clock and remove the lower cover. (This cover is not held by the cimp ring!)
3. Apply protective tape to the outermost section of the crimp ring.
4. Invert the clock assembly into the wooden block and fit a large hose (jubilee) clip around the outer section of the crimp ring. (This will ensure the crimp ring retains its shape whilst being very carefully prised up.)
5. Using a suitable screwdriver, patiently and carefully prise the LOWER side of the crimp ring upwards. Working a little bit at a time is the best practice here and don't try to prise the ring all the way up in one go.
6. Once the crimp ring has been "folded" up enough, the crimp ring and top cover can be removed, but you'll have to lift the inverted clock assembly out of the block and release the tension on the hose clip to see if it's been released enough. If not, repeat the above steps.
When reassembling the clocks, fold the crimp ring down a little at a time. I usually start at 10mm intrvals for one pass, then down to 5mm for the next pass, then down to 1mm to finally fold the ring down.
The ring can then be painted and and when the bottom cover is refitted, it hides most of the marks made by the folding.
Hope this is to some use to some of you.
I can post pics if you like.
Regards, Will
Kawasaki H2C 750, ZRX1100R, H**** VF1000RG Rothmans, H**** VF500F2F, Suzuki GSXR750F Slabbie
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Thanks for all your help z900a4 clock splitting
Well pleased with finished job until I dropped tacho and smashed it
quality of clock overlays great but have ordered another set due to damaging the clock face of the tacho when dropped it. The key is like you all said don't rush if I can do it any one can. The result when they where back together was good saying it myself but when clock bottom put on couldn't tell. Once again thanks for all the replays to my original post and the good advise cheers mark

Z9A4tfx
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- Regular Poster
- Posts: 16
- Joined: 27th Feb 2013
Thanks for all your help z900a4 clock splitting
Well pleased with finished job until I dropped tacho and smashed it
quality of clock overlays great but have ordered another set due to damaging the clock face of the tacho when dropped it. The key is like you all said don't rush if I can do it any one can. The result when they where back together was good saying it myself but when clock bottom put on couldn't tell. Once again thanks for all the replays to my original post and the good advise cheers mark

Z9A4tfx
If you are replacing the securing ring anyway, the quickest and easiest way to remove the old one is to just nick a tiny cut with a dremel.
Yes you also cut the top case too for about 3mm, but it helps line things up when you put the two halves (of the top case) back together, and it's invisible when a new ring is fitted.
The only hard part is peening the new ring over - that is a bitch of a job. I wish someone would make a tool (to sell) that'd do that rather than tippy tapping here and there a little at a time.
Yes you also cut the top case too for about 3mm, but it helps line things up when you put the two halves (of the top case) back together, and it's invisible when a new ring is fitted.
The only hard part is peening the new ring over - that is a bitch of a job. I wish someone would make a tool (to sell) that'd do that rather than tippy tapping here and there a little at a time.
Why do I persist in debating with idiots ? I really should know better 

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